The streets are quiet, but it’s the heat of the day that’s keeping many of the locals away. The smattering of tourists in the wide pedestrian areas and shaded parks gives the city of Cetinje some life, though.

Every block has something to see – and old royal palace, a grand embassy building, an intricately-designed church.

Why, when Montenegro had such a nice capital like this, would it have traded it all in for the hole that is Podogrica?

Cetinje was founded in the 15th century and became the centre of the Montenegrin culture. Its fortunes rose and fell for hundreds of years but from the 1800s a lot of effort was put into the architecture and grandeur of the city.

It officially became the capital of an independent Montenegro in 1878.

It was after the Second World War, in 1946, that the capital was moved from Cetinje to Podgorica (then known as Titograd) and placed under communist rule. The old royal capital was left with just 9,000 residents.

Visiting it today, it feels like not much has changed since then. The population has grown slightly to about 14,000 people but the buildings and the streets don’t look too different.

The political capital may have moved but culture and history are harder to migrate. Cetinje was preserved almost as it was left.

The political capital may have moved but culture and history are harder to migrate. Cetinje was preserved almost as it was left.

The city is not very big and you can walk the streets yourself and explore the various things to do in Cetinje. Although, if you would like to learn more about it, there is this city tour by a local guide. Or, you can combine a visit to Cetinje and Lovcen National Park with this tour from the coast.

As you might expect from the old capital of Montenegro, there are lots of things to do in Cetinje. I’ve marked them on a map here.

Let me run you through the details of some of them.

Cetinje Monastery

The most important of the sights in Cetinje is the Cetinje Monastery, also known as the Monastery of Saint Peter.

Cetinje Monastery was built in 1484 by Ivan Crnojevic, a duke who moved his capital to Cetinje because it was easier to defend (effectively founding the city). But the buildings have been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries.

It’s one of Montenegro’s most significant sites and is seen as a symbol of the country’s spirituality. It holds the relics of one of Montenegro’s great historical rulers, St Peter of Cetinje, whose name is now associated with the monastery.

You can visit Cetinje Monastery and see the modest church at its centre, as well as the various artworks throughout the complex. The tombs and other graves of Montenegrin leaders are also here.

And you’ll find a little museum that gives you some more information about the significance of the site.

The National Museum of Montenegro

It may seem a bit confusing at first, but the National Museum of Montenegro is made up of a four different locations, some of which have more than one institution within them.

You can visit however many you like and pay the entrance fee for each one, of you can get a combined ticket for €12 to see them all.

National Museum of Montenegro

Although this building across from the monastery is usually just called the National Museum of Montenegro, it actually houses several different parts of the institution, including art galleries.

You’ll get to see an interesting collection of artworks and learn a bit more about the cultural heritage of the country if you visit all the different parts of the building.

Njegos Museum Biljarda (Billiard Palace)

Although in a separate building, the Njegos Museum Biljarda is also part of the National Museum of Montenegro.

The building was the residence of a famous Montenegrin poet, Peter II Petrovic Njegos. The museum shows his personal belongings and furniture, which is probably more of interest to locals.

What is rather cool, though, is the enormous map relief of Montenegro created in 1917 that is now housed here.  

Museum of King Nikola

Across the street from the Billiard Palace is another part of the National Museum of Montenegro – the Museum of King Nikola. This palace was home to the last royal ruler of Montenegro, King Nikola, who it’s now named after.

Construction of the palace finished in 1867 and gives you a good impression of how the country’s elite lived in the 19^th century.

You’ll need to do a guided tour of the palace, which is a combination of museum exhibitions and recreated rooms.

Ethnographic Museum of Montenegro

This final part of the National Museum of Montenegro is just across the road from the Museum of King Nikola. It’s called the Ethnographic Museum and has a collection of items related to the folk history of the country.

I would suggest that this is a site you could skip unless you have a particular interest in national costumes, traditional ornaments, or embroidery.

Other things to do in Cetinje

Aside from the monastery and the museums, there are quite a few other things to do in Cetinje. The city is full of small sights that you can visit to easily fill much of the day.

As you walk the streets, you’ll see the old embassies with their faded elegance, as well as other grand houses.

But have a look out for these particular landmarks.

• Blue Palace
• The Castle Church
• Monument to Ivan Crnojevic
• Royal Theatre Zetski Dom
• Vlaska Church

And, of course, you can just spend some time in the main street of Cetinje, called Njegoseva ulica.

Much of it is pedestrianised and there are lovely little cafes and restaurants where you can have a break from all the other things to do in Cetinje.

Although Cetinje is not too far from the tourist centres on the coast, it seems not many people bother to leave the water and make the journey inland to see this time capsule of history.

It’s not that surprising, I suppose. After all, most of the people at the beach are from Montenegro or nearby countries and they’ve seen enough examples of power shifting between cities, countries and leaders in their lifetimes.

But for a foreigner, it’s an interesting glimpse at Balkan life before the First World War began the game of thrones that lasted in the region for almost a hundred years.

The architecture is the most striking thing about Cetinje and it doesn’t take too long to walk through the city and see it all for yourself.

This is not a reason to come to Montenegro, it is not going to be a highlight, but it will be worth the half day you spend there. Especially when you compare it to where the capital was moved to.