Time Travel Turtle

A travel blog with stories beyond the brochure

Why would you give up on this capital?

| 28 Comments

PHOTO ESSAY

Cetinje, Montenegro

The streets are quiet, but it’s the heat of the day that’s keeping many of the locals away. The smattering of tourists in the wide pedestrian areas and shaded parks gives the city of Cetinje some life, though. Every block has something to see – and old royal palace, a grand embassy building, an intricately-designed church. Why, when Montenegro had such a nice capital like this, would it have traded it all in for the hole that is Podogrica?

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje was founded in the 15th century and became the centre of the Montenegrin culture. Its fortunes rose and fell for hundreds of years but from the 1800s a lot of effort was put into the architecture and grandeur of the city. It officially became the capital of an independent Montenegro in 1878.

Cetinje, Montenegro

It was after the Second World War, in 1946, that the capital was moved from Cetinje to Podgorica (then known as Titograd) and placed under communist rule. The old royal capital was left with just 9,000 residents.

Visiting it today, it feels like not much has changed since then. The population has grown slightly to about 14,000 people but the buildings and the streets don’t look too different. The political capital may have moved but culture and history are harder to migrate. Cetinje was preserved almost as it was left.

Cetinje, Montenegro

It’s an easy place to get to from the coastal resort towns of Montenegro – about 30 minutes on the bus from Budva, for instance. It seems not many people bother to leave the water and make the journey inland to see this time capsule of history, though. It’s not that surprising, I suppose. After all, most of the people at the beach are from Montenegro or nearby countries and they’ve seen enough examples of power shifting between cities, countries and leaders in their lifetimes.

Cetinje, Montenegro

But for a foreigner, it’s an interesting glimpse at Balkan life before the First World War began the game of thrones that lasted in the region for almost a hundred years. The architecture is the most striking thing about Cetinje and it doesn’t take too long to walk through the city and see it all for yourself.

Cetinje, Montenegro

This is not a reason to come to Montenegro, it is not going to be a highlight, but it will be worth the half day you spend there. Especially when you compare it to where the capital was moved to. I guess it’s too late to swap back…

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Cetinje, Montenegro

Reader Interactions

    Comments

  3. Reply

    Even if it’s no longer the capital of Montenegro, it’s still a place that’s worth visiting. I love the architecture and the aura of the place.

    • Reply

      The architecture is really interesting and is different to a lot of the other buildings you’ll see around the Balkans. They’ve done a good job of preserving them all too and turning them into decent museums.

    • Reply

      Yes, it doesn’t take too much effort to go and see it from somewhere like Budva or Podgorica. If you’re interested in history, there’s plenty to see. And it is just a beautiful little place.

  5. Reply

    Sadly, I think countries lose a lot by moving capitals. From what I understand, Kazakhstan is much the same – in spite of Astana being the capital, most people would prefer to live in Almaty. Supposedly there is talk of moving the capital of Mongolia from Ulaanbaatar. While UB’s no treasure, I sincerely hope it doesn’t happen here!

    • Reply

      Capital cities tend to create their own history over time but the problem is that can then be neglected if the seat of power moves somewhere else. Places like Japan handled it well and Nara and Kyoto are wonderful examples of old capitals. But I think it’s different in this part of the world because the capital is normally moved by a strong leader who wants to make his own mark, and so ignores the former cities.

  6. Reply

    I love the photograph of the beautiful shuttered building as well as those of the tiny church in the graveyard, itself enveloped in overgrown grasses – and that of the sculpture of a man with wonderfully massive hands. So curious. I can hear Montenegro calling out to be explored.

    • Reply

      It is a really nice town for taking photos because the buildings have these interesting colours and lots of texture. Also, there aren’t lots of people getting in the way and standing in front of them. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts when you make it there sometime! 🙂

  9. Reply

    Whether its a capital or not it is beautiful place and I would really like to visit. I am sure it would be easy to convince the wifey as well. Though see might wonder were all the people are though.

    • Reply

      It doesn’t take too long to visit Cetinje… maybe just a lazy morning or afternoon wandering around and checking it out and seeing a few museums. You might appreciate the lack of people if you’re coming up from Budva or somewhere like that! 🙂

    • Reply

      Yeah, I suppose that is one way to look at it. The city would definitely feel very different if it was still the capital and full of activity. Perhaps things didn’t work out too badly in the end…

  11. Reply

    Montenegro e una paese mirifica e il popolo montenegreano e fantastico,ospitalieri,bravissimi e tutto che offrano lo fanno con tutto cuore e non aspetano niente in cambio……citta Cetinje e spendida….sono statta fortunata conoscere le persone bravissime…grazie Dragana,una guida di grande clasa

  12. Reply

    Just a small history lessons from a Montenegrin:

    The capital was moved after World War I in 1918. A convention was supposed to be held to decide whether Montenegro will join the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slavs. (Notice that the Kingdom name doesn’t mention Montenegrins). By joining this union Montenegro would keep its geographical borders but lose its national identity and it’s people would “fall under Serbs”. Cetinje, the capital at the time, was a Montenegro nationalist stronghold and opposed the idea of the union. In order to pass the convention, under the pressure of Serbian diplomats, the convention was held in Podgorica, which at the time was nothing more but a village. As a result of this corrupt convention, Montenegro joined the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later renamed to Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and after World War II Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia) and the capital was relocated from Cetinje to Podgorica (after World War II Podgorica was renamed Titograd, and in 1991 back to Podgorica again).

  13. Reply

    Interesting and suprising in a city i have never heard of so far, thanks! And really a great mix of architecture images as well, gives me a feeling for what to expect…

  14. Reply

    I’m on a tour that stops in Cetinje to see the National Museum. I’d rather wander the streets and look at the beautiful places you’ve photographed. Unfortunately, I can’t tell what each of the photographs portrays. Would it be possible to get the name of the buildings or even the streets you wandered? Thanks.