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Travels through Paraguay

March 7, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 9 Comments

MY IMPRESSIONS

Tips for travel in Paraguay

As the bus drives along the bumpy dirt road, I look desperately out the window. Through the haze of the red dust being thrown into the air, I look for a sign.

Not a mystical symbol of guidance or anything that ethereal – I’m talking about an actual sign.

You see, I’m travelling in the middle of Paraguay and have no idea where I am. I know I’m supposed to be getting off at a small village somewhere but, as far as I know, it could be any of the stops the bus is making.

This seems to be a recurring theme of my travels in Paraguay. In some senses one of the hardest countries in South America to get around but, in some other senses, one of the easiest. Let me explain.

travelling in paraguay

travelling in paraguay

The reason I was staring out the bus window for any hint of my location was because the country’s transport system is not designed for tourists like me. It’s designed for locals who know where they’re going and it’s expected that you always know what you’re doing. I never did.

travelling in paraguay

I caught many buses in my time in Paraguay and I would always ask the bus conductors to let me know when we got to my destination. They always forgot.

I would ask my fellow travellers and they would always give me ambiguous answers. Most likely it was my bad Spanish that was the cause of the confusion. Although sometimes they genuinely didn’t seem to know where they were either – they knew where they were going to but nothing in between.

travelling in paraguay

There are no signs at bus stations; there are often no platform numbers; there are no helpful bits of information on your ticket; there are never maps when you get off somewhere; there are never information bureaux (even when a guidebook had suggested there might be).

And of course absolutely nothing is in English and hardly anyone is able to speak it.

What is tourism like in Paraguay?

Other countries on the continent have adapted to the needs of tourists and you can plan and research most elements of your travels.

Websites will give you bus timetables, you can book hostels or hotels online, and the writings online of hundreds of travellers before you have all the tips and information you could possibly need (admittedly, quite often also with a lot of personal drivel that you don’t need).

In Paraguay this doesn’t exist. Everything about travel must be done on the ground and in person. And this leads me to why it was one of the easiest countries to travel in.

travelling in paraguay

travelling in paraguay

One of the biggest troubles I seem to have with only ever planning a day or so ahead is that I get caught when things are booked out or busy.

That bus I was planning to get? No seats left because I didn’t buy the ticket earlier. That hostel I had just walked to from the station? Completely full – sorry, mate, you should have booked online like everyone else.

In Paraguay there were always seats and there were always rooms. If you turned up at the terminal you would always get on the next bus. If you turned up at a hotel, there was always a room for you.

travelling in paraguay

Paraguay is cheap!

It’s also an extremely cheap country, which makes it easier to deal with problems that might arise. One time I missed the local bus to where I was going and so a young guy offered to take me on the back of his motorbike… all for just a few dollars.

That’s my lasting and most enjoyable memory of Paraguay. Not the motorbike ride – I’m actually terrified of those things and hated every minute on it. It was the experience of being the only tourist there.

I went for two weeks and spoke to only one group of native English-speakers. Most of my conversations were in bad Spanish (at least mine was bad – I’m sure theirs was fine).

travelling in paraguay

travelling in paraguay

I saw the true Paraguay and it is a beautiful country. Everything is relaxed, people move at a speed of comfort and there’s a genuine friendliness in the people you meet.

The cities feel like towns, with horses trotting down the streets pulling a cart as the cars speed past…

The towns feel like villages, with the locals passing their days sitting in the shade drinking tea and chatting with neighbours who stop for a conversation as they walk past…

And the villages have a tranquillity that comes from the attitude that life is not to be rushed.

travelling in paraguay

To journey and travel through Paraguay is to see the beautiful landscapes of a part of South America that many tourists choose not to visit; is to experience a way of life that puts the focus on savouring the moment; and is to challenge your abilities to make your way on the road less-travelled.

>> You can read my free Paraguay Travel Guide here! <<

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Lifecruiser Travel |

    February 12, 2012 at 9:18 am

    Reply

    I recognize that. The bus on the road passing by us (we never did go by bus) with all the red dust clouds after…. ha ha… The friendly people. The marvelous weather. The rural scenes. We stayed at an estancia out on the countryside with cattle’s. Fantastic experience. Oh, and we did buy our favorite pair of boots in Asuncion (2005), dirt cheap and we still have them! Our favorite ones!

    You didn’t bump into any Germans? There are lots of Germans in Paraguay – or at least were – according to our German hostess.

    • Turtle |

      February 14, 2012 at 6:25 am

      Reply

      So many Germans! Everywhere I went! But yeah, it was a fantastic experience. Wish I had bought some boots now!! 🙂

  2. mumun |

    December 1, 2012 at 12:26 am

    Reply

    sounds very familiar to the buses in Indonesia. I’ve always struggled on how to explain it but obviously i’ve learned how. thank you for this.

    • Michael Turtle |

      December 7, 2012 at 10:44 am

      Reply

      As long as you’re in a place where the local people are going to help you, then you’re ok. I do try to use my GPS a bit more these days so I have a sense of where I am and where I should be getting off.

  3. Angie Merchant |

    May 2, 2016 at 4:32 am

    Reply

    I was born in this country in 1958 to missionaries from England and Germany. We left when I was 2 but my parents had lived there for 20 years and I loved hearing about there experiences. How nice to read this friendly review of an often maligned country. I have it on my list of definite places to visit–even more now!

  4. T Kelley |

    February 12, 2018 at 4:21 am

    Reply

    I like the way you travel!

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 15, 2018 at 6:48 pm

      Reply

      Thanks! I hope you find some inspiration in it! 🙂

  5. Sidney Theodoro |

    September 17, 2018 at 2:08 am

    Reply

    Michael Turtle,
    Saudações.
    Simples,poético e encantador o seu relato de viagem ao Paraguay.
    Digo encantador por eu ter revivido as sensações de minha viagem a Asunción quando eu li este bonito texto.
    Eu realizei um desejo neste ano ao viajar para este hermoso país.
    É verdadeiro o slogan do órgão de turismo local:
    “Paraguay; Tenes que sentirlo.”
    Parabéns por compartilhar a sua história e inspirar os viajantes.
    Abraço.
    Sidney.

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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