A tale of two chocolates

Two different experiences. Two different ways of approaching tourism in Costa Rica. Which would you prefer?

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.


Tourism in Costa Rica

In some ways, Costa Rica is the Disneyland of Central America. It’s the safe, comfortable and expensive option for tourists who want to visit the region without the fear of corruption, crime or civil unrest that can appear without warning in neighbours like Nicaragua or El Salvador.

Particularly for American tourists, it’s a short journey into a lush exotic adventure playground packaged in bubble-wrap to prevent any breakages.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

But it’s foolish to think that Costa Rica is crime-free. It is certainly more stable and secure than most of the region, but only the naïve would believe there is nothing to fear.

Even major hotels in the capital San Jose have signs with warnings of possible scams and attacks.

“If you have a flat tire on the road, don’t stop to fix it – drive to a safe place first,” for example.

Tourists don’t want to worry about this, though. They want to see the national parks, the wildlife, the beaches and the culture without always being reminded of the dark side.

For most, this is a holiday – and a holiday should be all sunshine.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

The problem is that to protect the visitors from worry, quite often the solution is to keep them away from the real Costa Rica. An artificial construction of the country is built within controlled environs and presented as reality.

Let me tell you the tale of two chocolates, one sugar-coated.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

Chocolate tours in Costa Rica

The first chocolate is at the Tirimbina rainforest centre in the northeast of Costa Rica.

It is, in part, an educational centre that shows people the history and culture of the country.

Chocolate is a large part of that – something that has been grown, produced and eaten in this area for generations. It’s part of rituals and traditions that go back far beyond the arrival of Europeans.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

And so the Tirimbina centre hosts two ‘chocolate tours’ every day that show visitors the story of the plant. The visitors are either staying at the centre’s accommodation or come in by bus.

They walk across a large suspension bridge through the forest to a hut on an old cacao-growing plot. Once there, the guide spends almost two hours showing everyone the history of chocolate and how it is turned from beans into the substance we know today.

Some people will get to help grind it or flavour it. Everyone will get to taste it.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica
Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

The tour demonstrates the traditional production methods native to Costa Rica.

The guide is energetic and engaging. The information is interesting and the presentation is slick.

In many ways it is a very well done tour… except it could be done anywhere. The guide is not a chocolate maker, chocolate has not been harvested or produced here for years, there is nothing related to chocolate that is not sitting on the table in the hut.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

The tour, however, is safe. It gives the tourists an insight into a cultural aspect of Costa Rica without them having to interact with the real Costa Rica or leave the controlled grounds of the centre.

It is a taste of the country as a pit stop for a tour bus.

Compare that to the demonstration of the chocolate production process during a visit to the indigenous Bribri community at the Yorkin Reserve in the south of the country.

It’s just one part of a day trip into the community where you see how the indigenous people live, eat their local food, and talk to them about their lives.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

The women of the family make the chocolate for you. It’s a matriarchal society and this has always been the task of the women – it’s seen as an almost sacred ritual.

For as long as anyone can remember, the indigenous tribes here have harvested the cacoa and made chocolate. Even today they eat it as a special food – although most of what they collect is sold to earn a living.

It is quite literally the food they live off. And so to be shown the production process – without using any words of English – in a community that has always done this… well, I’ll let you come to your own conclusions.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

There is nothing flashy about this chocolate demonstration. The local woman just goes through the process as she has many times before like her mother and grandmother before her.

There are no signs or presentations. She offers the opportunity to join in on several occasions but, other than that, there is nothing overly touristic about the whole thing.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

This is the tale of the two chocolates. Both experiences effectively showed me exactly the same thing.

In fact, I probably learned more from the demonstration at Tirimbina because the guide was practiced at explaining the background in English and it was much more detailed.

Yet it was with the woman from the Bribri tribe that I felt more connected and more involved in an authentic act.

Making chocolate classes in Costa Rica

I wonder if tourists to Costa Rica who are dropped by their bus at ‘education centres’ realise what’s happening.

If they knew of the options beyond the border of reality, would they be more interested in exploring them?

Or perhaps tourists to the country know what they are being presented with and don’t mind – it’s still a fun holiday and the risk of something going wrong has been eliminated.

If you go to Disneyland, you expect Disneyland. But there are plenty of ways to step outside and see a different type of magical kingdom.

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of Visit Costa Rica but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

20 thoughts on “A tale of two chocolates”

  1. You got me straight away by mentioning chocolate!! Although my preference would be the second one. I like it when people affect my travels. Makes the experience more memorable.

  2. This is especially interesting to me because we went to the Tirimbina Reserve back in 2010, and I don’t remember their being a chocolate tour offered there at the time (I’m fairly certain Mary would’ve insisted on doing it, given her passion for the stuff). In fact, we saw fairly few tourists at all during our 2 days at Tirimbina, so it’s interesting to hear they’re now bussing people in. “Progress,” eh? Meanwhile, the more I read of your Yorkin coverage, the more curious I am about the place…

    • I guess when a place gets popular they look to maximise the opportunities. Interesting to hear from you that it’s changed a bit in the past couple of years. Chocolate is definitely a big thing for tourists and I saw lots of places offering tours. I imagine there are different levels of authenticity across them all.

  3. I like that you were able to find something more authentic. I often wonder about tours like these and how fabricated they are. Sure you may learn something, but I hate staging. I’d rather do as you did and see this woman in the actual process, not be at some place that hasn’t even produced chocolate in years.

    • It’s each to their own, I guess. The Bribri experience was great but it took up a whole day and is not something that’s easy to do if you’re not mobile enough to climb in and out of a canoe and that sort of thing. The first experience is good for people who don’t have a lot of time or don’t want something quite as physically-demanding.

    • Thanks. From a tourism perspective, every country is a bit like that. Some things are constructed for tourists and other ones are more natural but still accessible for tourists. If you’re looking for a particular type of thing, it’s useful to do some research in advance, I guess. (But, let’s be real, who has time to do that much research??)

    • Yes, that’s very true – nobody loses when there’s chocolate involved!
      I suppose my point was that nobody loses at all if you know what you want and you make the right choice. It’s nice in some ways that there are options for every style of tourist.

    • There’s something pretty cool about eating chocolate that has just been made and was beans just minutes before. I don’t think I could go back to the processed bars they try to pass off as chocolate in convenience stores!!

  4. Your post inspired me to get off the beaten track more on my recent trip to Costa Rica. I didn’t get a chance to visit Yorkin Reserve but it’s definitely on my to-do list.

    • Oh wow – thanks so much for letting me know. There are some really cool things to discover that aren’t part of the typical trail. Yorkin Reserve is one of them but there are heaps of others. Did you have any particular highlights?

      • Sorry for the ridiculously late response! We stayed in the southern part of Costa Rica in Ojochal (beautiful deserted beaches and amazing food) and then in the Central Valley region. We really liked visiting the Boruca village and our stay on a farm abutting a jungle in Albergue El Socorro.


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