Paraguay’s Atlantic Forest
So, to my right, there’s a rustle in the undergrowth. I turn quickly, scanning the mottled green of the Atlantic Forest, hoping to see where the sound’s coming from… but it doesn’t look like there’s anything there. I hesitate, just briefly in case something emerges from the bushes, and then turn back to the path and keep going. It’s at this point I remember reading that there are jaguars in this part of Paraguay and I start to question my decision to go exploring the wilderness on my own.
Already I’m slightly on edge. I seem to be in a running battle with the spider population of the forest and they are starting to win. Their webs stretch across the narrow path I’m walking along and I have to move slowly to make sure I see them in time to avoid being caught with the other insects. One time, while I was distracted trying to photograph a moving butterfly, I had wandered right into a web. It’s not particularly manly to shriek but I am man enough to admit that’s what I did. Who knows if they are dangerous spiders but I am not planning to find out. It seems odd that I am so scared of them, after all, they’re the ones who are spineless.
There isn’t much to do but accept that this is animal territory. Somewhere (who knows how close) a jaguar is probably hunting its prey (hopefully not me); birds are shrieking from the treetops; all around insects are buzzing and flitting through the air between the foliage; occasional sounds from the dry leaves on the ground indicate more mysterious creatures are nearby; and of course the aforementioned spiders are waiting in anticipation with their hungry little eyes and hungry eight legs. I am no longer in man’s world.
The problem is, though, that man is encroaching upon this world and that’s what has brought me to the San Rafael region of Paraguay. The once mighty Atlantic Forest is being destroyed by humans. Non-profit organisation Pro Cosara is fighting to preserve what’s left and I have come to see their work.
The Atlantic Forest was once more than 2 million km squared and covered eastern Paraguay, northeastern Argentina and a large part of coastal Brazil. Now it is less than 7 per cent of its original size. It’s become one of the world’s most endangered ecological systems. In the jungle areas that remain, animal and plant species face extinction. More than 8,000 species exist only here and, as the land is cleared, they face the prospect of being wiped off the planet forever.
Pro Cosara in Paraguay
Christine and Hans Hostettler run the Pro Cosara organisation. Originally from Switzerland, they moved to Paraguay more than 30 years ago when “this whole area as far as you can see was forest”. Now most of the land has been turned into crops as locals began growing soya beans to make a living. One of the main jobs for Pro Cosara is to educate the farmers about sustainable practices to try to limit the damage to the Atlantic Forest.
Christine and Hans live a simple life, but a fulfilling one. They have a natural good humour that shines through when we talk over meals. Hans has a tendency to make a joke in Spanish and then laugh much longer than would be appropriate. It never is inappropriate, though. It’s actually infectious and you can see how happy they are, living in their own piece of the wilderness that they get so much satisfaction out of trying to protect.
Working with the staff of locals, they also monitor and patrol the reserve. Sometimes it’s by foot and sometimes it’s in the light plane that Hans built from a kit. “He’s logged 380 hours of flying in it”, Christine tells me before Hans interrupts. “It’s actually 400”, he corrects… and then laughs for what seems like a minute. From the plane they are looking for anything from bushfires to wood poachers, who steal trees from the forest to sell. One day I get a shock when I turn up at lunch to find four heavily-armed police officers at the table, getting GPS coordinates from Hans.
One of the other big focuses at the moment is on awareness and fundraising. That’s one of the reasons why Pro Cosara is happy to host tourists for a few days. The proceeds from the (very modest) cost of lodging goes right back into the organisation and there’s a hope that foreigners will spread the word when they get back home. And why wouldn’t they? This is a part of the world that you don’t hear much about but there’s a potential environmental disaster looming if the deforestation continues at this pace. Even those spiders deserve better than extinction.
| The nitty gritty travel detailsTo get to Pro Cosara I caught the bus from Encarnacion and got off at Ynambu where I was picked up by Christine. The bus leaves twice a day at 8:00 and 11:30 and takes about three hours. It costs about US$25 for a night’s accommodation and three meals. There is also camping available. You can explore the San Rafael reserve on your own or pay the local people to guide you through it. Oh, and definitely go for a swim in the lake – it’s beautiful! For more information check out this link. |
Are you interested in finding out more about Paraguay? Then you can check out my Paraguay Travel Guide!
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Turtle, like the name suggests, likes to take things slowly. Luckily that's one of the best ways to see the world - and that's exactly what he's doing at the moment.
This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.
22 Responses
Wonderful story Michael, thank you. I like the way you balance the description of the forest with the people who are working to save it. Watch out for those webs though! Jools
Jools Stone recently posted..Google Maps British Train Journeys with Trainline, but not perfectly…
Thanks Jools! There’s always a human side to every story. Unfortunately there was also a spider side to this one
Agree wholeheartedly with Jools, superbly written. Great descriptions intertwined with the story of those saving to save the forest.
Thanks Mike. It’s nice to know there are people who are willing to devote so much time to a good cause!
Great shots and awesome work…Glad it wasn’t a jaguar:)
The World of Deej recently posted..New Year’s Eve in Orlando – May The Force Be With You
Well, we assume it wasn’t a jaguar… lucky I never found out!!
Wonderfully written story. I would’ve been a bit scared of the jaguars, but I’m glad you stuck it out to share this post!
Dayna recently posted..The Internal Cost of Travel
To be honest, I was more scared of the spiders. They were absolutely everywhere!!!
The world needs people like Christine and Hans, who live with and help educate the farmers about sustainable practices to try to limit the damage of massive forest clearing.
Those are some serious spiders. Almost made me forget about the jaguars.
Nina F recently posted..Grooving In The Yellow Knolls
Yes, they were quite an inspiration to meet. They both spend a lot of time on an issue that doesn’t get a lot of publicity.
Great story, Michael! You really captured the sense of hyper-awareness one needs when traversing tropical jungles. You just never know where the next spiderweb, snake, or cool photo op might be. I have this weird sixth sense (spidey sense?) that kicks in: When we were in Riviera Maya, I spotted the spider monkeys we were looking for before our guide did by using a technique called “soft focus,” wherein you actually relax your eyes and allow any little anomaly that doesn’t fit the overall visual pattern to draw your attention. It’s crazy effective with a bit of practice.
Ha, that’s a great tip! I’m going to give it a go next time I’m out on the hunt for some wildlife. I seem terrible at spotting things – even when someone is pointing right at them!
Great story highlighting an area not often on the volunteer radar.
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Welcome to El Chalten
Any publicity helps!
WoW! Paraguay was one country I didn’t get to when I was touring around South America in 2010. Looks like I sure missed out!
Nomadic Samuel recently posted..Mayan Lesson: Coba, Mexico | Sonia’s Travels
That’s one of the reasons I came – because not many people did. There aren’t really many ‘sights’ to see but there’s a wonderful culture here and you can experience it without being surround by tourists!
Pro Cosara sounds like the perfect example of how sustainable tourism/ecotourism can provide the funds to help preserve the ecosystem tourists come to see.
Mary @ Green Global Travel recently posted..Saving the World, One Story At A Time
If only there were more places like this (and more people willing to do it!)
I’m looking forward to visit Pro Cosara. They are perfect example of a peaceful and well-maintained environment. =)
nick williams recently posted..MSDSonline Teams up with ASSE and Jennifer Silk for GHS Webinar on April 19
Hopefully you get a chance to go there on day. It’s a lovely place and a great experience.
Thanks for sharing, Paraguay is on my list to visit – that is once I am able to apply for the Visa. I’d hate to travel through Southern Brazil into Argentina and miss it.
Cornelius Aesop recently posted..New Brew Tuesday: Flensburger Weizen
Awesome. I always tell people that if they are short of time, there’s nothing wrong with skipping Paraguay. But if you’ve got time, it’s a great place to check out because so few people do!