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A tea change

March 22, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 7 Comments

HIKING GUIDE

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Sitting on the terrace of the Cameron Valley Tea House, looking out over the plantations below, I sip on an overpriced cup of tea.

At RM9 (US$2.20) for a small pot, it’s hardly outrageous – however, it’s certainly much more than it should cost in Malaysia. But visitors like me just suck up the price because what we’re really here for are the view and the experience.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

And, sadly, that is the story of the Cameron Highlands these days. Stunning scenery – but at what cost?

I’m not just talking about the financial cost either. The bigger concern is the environmental damage that could end up destroying the place.

Arriving in the Cameron Highlands by bus from Kuala Lumpur, I’m struck straight away by the incredible landscapes. Rolling down the slopes are large tea plantations, the bushes arranged in a way that creates a textured carpet of green, with lines and patterns across it.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

The plantations rise and fall on inclines and over hillocks, catching the light or emphasised by dark shadows. The vibrant colour of the bushes seems to glow.

I watch it all rush past me from the window and look forward to exploring the area properly the next day.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

A lot of visitors come to the Cameron Highlands to explore. Although there are a fair few international tourists, most of the crowd is actually from other parts of Malaysia or neighbouring Singapore.

It is more than 1000 metres above sea level here (up to 2031 metres at the highest point) and so is much cooler than Kuala Lumpur or other cities. This is a nice respite from a humid life and so is particularly popular on weekends.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

The increasing tourist numbers have meant a need for an increase in facilities. These come in two forms – buildings (like hotels) or farms (like tea plantations). For both, land is needed, and what is being cleared away are the native forests that have grown on the hills here for tens of thousands of years.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

This land clearing may mean more income for the locals but it is causing a lot of problems for the environmental ecosystem, which is getting out of balance.

Without the roots of trees to strengthen the ground, landslides are becoming more common; less trees are leading to an increase in temperatures; more farms mean the rivers are disappearing; extra tourists are causing an explosion in pollution.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

For a visitor like me, these environmental concerns are not obvious on first glance. I only find out about the issues by doing some research. But luckily my plan to explore the Cameron Highlands is a sustainable one.

I want to go hiking – to see a mixture of the native forests and the new tea plantations, and catch some of the mountain views.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

I would recommend you do the same if you’re planning to visit the Cameron Highlands. There are public buses or taxis that you can catch between the different towns – but there’s only so much you can see from the road.

To really appreciate the area, you need to go by foot and get away from the developed areas.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

The easiest town for accommodation is Tanah Rata and there’s where I stay for a couple of nights. I do two big hikes – one in the morning and one in the afternoon – and I would certainly recommend either (or both) to you. I have marked them on this map here.

Let me tell you a bit about each of them.

Morning hike: Sunrise and tea plantations

From Tanah Rata, you can wake up early and do a hike to the top of the nearby mountain, Gunung Jasar, in time for sunrise. It takes about an hour to get to the top from the middle of town, so I would suggest taking a torch because it will be quite dark at the start.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

From the top of the mountain, I took a path that is not well-used and so was a bit tricky in parts (with some steep muddy downhills with a rope) and some section were it’s a bit overgrown. But it’s a great adventure and takes you down to the largest section of tea plantations near Tanah Rata.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

Once you arrive, there are quite a few paths you can explore through the tea plantation, or you can follow the one on the map I did which will take you to the Cameron Valley Tea House where you can have some tea and breakfast.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

From there, I walked back to Tanah Rata along the main road (not marked on the route on the map).

Afternoon hike: Mountains and forests

In the afternoon, I headed off in the opposite direction and did a large loop through the forests and up to the top of a mountain called Gunung Berembun.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

The trek is about eight kilometres in total and took about three hours. One of the really nice things was seeing the native trees and animals.

You easily forget that you’re so close to the tourism development when you’re out in this part of the region, with very few other hikers along the path.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

On the way back, you can swing by Parit Waterfall.

There are lots of other hiking trails in the Cameron Highlands and there are plenty of options if you’re looking for something different or extra trails.

For instance, the long hike to the top of Gunung Brinchang (the highest point of the region) could be worth tackling as a day trip.

I think you can do hiking independently but there are local tour operators you can organise a trip with, if you prefer.

These operators also offer other tours around the area to see some of the other tourist attractions like tea plantations and all sorts of farms – strawberries, flowers, lavender, butterfly, etc. I am a bit suspicious about some of these because they have only been established to cater to tourists.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

It’s these ‘artificial’ farms and attractions that I think pose the biggest risk to the sustainability of the Cameron Highlands.

Not only are they clearing land to build them, but they are encouraging an environment where visitors need to see and do things, rather than just appreciate what is here.

Cameron Highlands hiking, Malaysia

The Cameron Highlands with its cool climate, native wilderness, beautiful views and collection of original early 20th century tea plantations should be enough. There’s no need for the self-destructive tea change we’re seeing at the moment.

Malaysia Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT MALAYSIA?

To help you plan your trip to Malaysia:

  • Visiting the famous Batu Caves from Kuala Lumpur
  • A guide for exploring the heritage of George Town in Penang
  • Finding the best street art in George Town
  • The best food to try in Penang
  • Why the Perhentian Islands are the ultimate getaway!
  • Exploring the jungles and beaches of Tioman Island
  • Tips for hiking the tea fields in the Cameron Highlands
  • The hipster trend in the city of Ipoh
  • Exploring the best sites in Kuala Kangsar
  • What to expect in the Muslim heartland of Kota Bharu

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of Malaysia, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Malaysia.

You could consider:

  • Western Borneo Experience (8 days)
  • Best of Borneo – National Geographic (12 days)
  • Experience Borneo (14 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Same Day Taj Mahal Tour by Train |

    September 8, 2017 at 4:17 pm

    Reply

    These pictures are very mesmerizing and beautiful want to visit this place of Malaysia. Thanks for sharing this post I just loved it.

  2. Golden Triangle Tour with Kerala |

    September 9, 2017 at 4:36 pm

    Reply

    What a fabulous review! Very informative and your photos are so inspiring!! I love a good hike while on the go! Great experience of Cameron Highlands.

  3. Jodhpur |

    September 12, 2017 at 3:24 pm

    Reply

    These photographs of tea garden are very captivating, they are very appealing and alluring. Malaysia also has some amazing places.

  4. Taj |

    September 13, 2017 at 9:33 pm

    Reply

    I simply love Cameron Highlands. It was a highlight of my trip to Malaysia!

  5. Surge Peter |

    July 12, 2019 at 11:24 pm

    Reply

    I agree with a few points that you have made.

    Cameron Highlands is indeed a gem, which hopefully, would remain with us and part of Malaysian tourism.

    There have been landslides happening there recently, due to forest development and illegal plantation.

    It is just my hope Cameron would remain a gem in our sphere…

  6. mahi sultan |

    September 2, 2019 at 9:52 pm

    Reply

    Thanks for this informative post.I just enjoyed reading it.Pictures are also very beautiful .Hope I will visit Malaysia in coming time.

  7. Taj Mahal Tour From Delhi |

    January 24, 2020 at 5:57 am

    Reply

    Superb blog and thanks for sharing such a great post.

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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