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To the Batu Cave!

November 28, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 6 Comments

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

After a while, you get used to the monkeys. Running up the steps, sliding down the banisters, fighting in the trees, running across the tiles if they spot food. The monkeys are as much a part of Batu Caves as anything else – but they’re not the main attraction, just an interesting sideshow.

Thankfully the monkeys tend to leave the human visitors alone. Perhaps they know that we’re here for something else.

Well, two other things, to be precise. Batu Caves is about the natural formations… and it’s about the religion that has taken them over.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The caves themselves have been here for a long time – experts estimate the limestone is about 400 million years old. And, besides the monkeys, there are lots of other animals here.

Thankfully the bats mainly stay hidden in undeveloped caves and, even more thankfully, so do the local spiders. Batu Caves claims to have the rarest spider on earth living here.

You won’t see most of the animals in the caves with the temples. For that, you can take the guided tour through the Dark Cave where you’ll also see some rather impressive rock formations further down the darkened tunnel.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Although you might expect there to be a long history with the Hindu religion here, it actually wasn’t until 1890 that the religion arrived. It was an Indian trader called K Thamboosamy Pillai who established the first temple here, just a few years after the area had become well known from colonial explorations.

He put a sacred statue of the deity Murugan in one of the most beautiful spots he could find. Batu Caves has been dedicated to Murugan ever since.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

A visit starts with a climb up the steps, 272 of them. I look up and begin. The climb is necessary – to get from the ground up to the entrance of the main caves – but it also brings a spiritual elevation to the experience, closer to the gods.

Guarding the staircase is an enormous golden statue of Murugan. At 43 metres tall, it is the largest statue devoted to him in the world and needed more than 300 litres of gold paint.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Once I get to the top, the enormous main cave opens up in front of me. There’s some water falling lightly from the ceiling, incense burns at some of the shrines, floodlights give colour to a few of the crevices, and people mingle on the vast floor beneath.

It is relatively quiet in here today. Even with quite a few tourists, the huge space stretches out further than they could come close to filling.

But there is a time each year when every spare bit of space is taken – the Thaipusam Festival.

The annual festival has been held here at Batu Caves since 1892, just two years after the first temple was founded, and takes place around January of February. It can have hundreds of thousands of worshippers taking part – and tens of thousands watching.

The reason there are so many spectators is because it’s a slightly strange ceremony. One of the things that people do is pierce their skin, mouth and tongue with things like hooks and skewers. A bit gruesome but quite the spectacle!

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Through the main cave, there’s another flight of steps (and plenty more monkeys jumping all over it). I walk up them and arrive at the final cave, different to the previous one.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Here, there’s a large hole above me where the sun streams in. There’s no need for artificial lights, nature is doing the job for us.

The tiled floor is wide and in the middle is a temple. It’s rather simple for what you might expect in a complex that is so grand.

Small candles burn around the outside and, in the middle, someone is praying.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

This is the original spot where the first tribute to Murugan was placed. It’s the whole complex’s reason for being but it seems rather sedate. Just one worshipper – everyone else walking around are tourists.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

I stay awhile and watch. One of the men from the temple walks over to the side of the cave and throws food to the monkeys. Other ones come running from different areas.

I decide it’s time to leave and retrace my steps, out through the main cave and down the 272 steps into the warm air of late morning.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The Batu Caves is one of the best things to see from Kuala Lumpur and it’s worth your effort to head out to see them. If you would prefer not to organise the logistics yourself, I would recommend this private tour to Batu Caves.

Or one of these tours might be the perfect thing for you:

As I’m leaving, I walk past a smaller temple at the base of the cliffs. I hear music, simple sounds with drums and metal percussion – but rhythmic and hypnotic.

I take off my shoes and go up to look. There’s some kind of ceremony going on and I can see people being blessed.

I guess it’s part of some wedding celebrations but, without a large crowd, not the main ceremony.

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

It’s a reminder that Batu Caves is not just a tourist attraction and it’s not just the site for large festivals. It’s also an everyday place of worship.

Perhaps this is why the monkeys show so much respect to the humans who come here – they can sense there’s a higher power at work.

Where is Batu Caves?

Batu Caves is in the northern suburbs of Kuala Lumpur.

You can see the location on Google Maps here.

How do you get to Batu Caves?

The easiest way to get to Batu Caves by public transport is to take the KLM Komuter train, which takes you right to the site.

You can catch it from KL Sentral station and the ticket costs RM2.60 (US$0.60) and takes about 25 minutes each way.

The stop is called Batu Caves and it’s the last one on the line.

When is Batu Caves open?

Batu Caves is open every day from 07:00 – 21:00.

The Dark Cave is Monday – Friday from 10:00 – 17:00 and on Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 – 17:30.

How much does it cost to visit Batu Caves?

When it comes to the Batu Caves entrance fee, one of the great things is that the main temple complex (where all the photos in this article are from) is free.

The Dark Cave environmental tour can only be done with a guide and it costs RM35 (US$7.80) for an adult and RM25 (US$5.60) for a child.

There are two other cave areas on the ground level that have small entrance fee. The Cave Villa for RM15 (US$3.40) and Ramayana Cave for RM5 (US$1.10).

Both of them are quite touristy and have colourful attractions and displays. They could be fun for children but don’t think you’re missing out if you don’t go in.

Are there tours to Batu Caves?

Yes, there are quite a few tour options to Batu Caves and it can make the visit much easier to not have to deal with transport and logistics. They are quite affordable too.

There is this private tour to Batu Caves from Kuala Lumpur

Or there is a group tour to Batu Caves that will teach you a lot about the culture.

If you want to see more than just Batu Caves, this tour combines the Genting Highland, while this tour also shows you around Kuala Lumpur, and this tour includes a lunch in Little India.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN KUALA LUMPUR

You can get great value accommodation in Kuala Lumpur but there are also wonderful luxury options.

BACKPACKER

If you’re looking for a cheap but fun option, I suggest Mingle Hostel, close to KL Sentral station.

BUDGET

For a nice comfortable budget hotel, try The Mesui in the main shopping district.

BOUTIQUE

With a cool and modern style, the W Hotel is a wonderful choice.

LUXURY

And I think the best luxury hotel in the city is the beautiful Banyan Tree.

Malaysia Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT MALAYSIA?

To help you plan your trip to Malaysia:

  • Visiting the famous Batu Caves from Kuala Lumpur
  • A guide for exploring the heritage of George Town in Penang
  • Finding the best street art in George Town
  • The best food to try in Penang
  • Why the Perhentian Islands are the ultimate getaway!
  • Exploring the jungles and beaches of Tioman Island
  • Tips for hiking the tea fields in the Cameron Highlands
  • The hipster trend in the city of Ipoh
  • Exploring the best sites in Kuala Kangsar
  • What to expect in the Muslim heartland of Kota Bharu

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of Malaysia, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Malaysia.

You could consider:

  • Western Borneo Experience (8 days)
  • Best of Borneo – National Geographic (12 days)
  • Experience Borneo (14 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Noor Aini |

    April 12, 2017 at 10:39 am

    Reply

    Hello.. hope you have a great time in Malaysia.. I read your blog before and i remembered you ask a suggestion which country to visit next.. I replied try visit Malaysia. I’m not sure whether you have read my comment or not but here you are in Malaysia..hehe

    There are also few states that you should really visit.. such as Langkawi Island, Penang island, Melaka, Perak, Terengganu, Johor Bahru and Sabah.. Basically those states have a wonderful scenery and history..

    Well, i like to read you travel journal.. Have a pleasant day.. (^_^)

    • Michael Turtle |

      April 13, 2017 at 6:03 am

      Reply

      Malaysia was an excellent suggestion! It’s a great country and I have enjoyed travelling around it so much. I have to confess that I had always thought it was a little ‘boring’ but I found so much to do and already want to go back! I left a couple of weeks ago but am planning my next trip in my head (I didn’t make it to Sabah or Sarawak, for instance).

  2. Alex Steven |

    April 12, 2017 at 7:42 pm

    Reply

    Simply scintillating. The temple inside the Batu Caves is amazing. Thanks a ton for sharing!

    • Michael Turtle |

      April 13, 2017 at 6:03 am

      Reply

      Yeah, it’s a pretty cool place. My pleasure!

  3. Ronnie Walter |

    April 15, 2017 at 10:19 pm

    Reply

    I am stunned by the pictures. Brilliant!

    • Michael Turtle |

      May 26, 2017 at 10:22 pm

      Reply

      Thanks so much – glad you like them!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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