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  • UNESCO

The panoramic kaleidoscope

March 8, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 19 Comments

WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Last Updated on March 8, 2019

Valparaiso’s buildings, Chile

Rumour is that it was a single building that led to the Chilean city of Valparaiso being protected by UNESCO.

Not a grand, beautiful, historic building. Rather, it was a modern edifice that, in some people’s eyes, scarred the skyline of the port city.

When a shipping company wanted to build a huge glass box of a building on top of its original sandstone offices, the local council said no, worried it would ruin the beauty of the city.

When the shipping company threatened to move all its business further down the coast to another location, the council changed its mind, worried it would ruin the economy of the city.

The glass box was built and when the outcry came, not unexpectedly, the international community was asked to step in.

Local residents campaigned for the area to be protected and, in 2003, UNESCO put a heritage listing over the entire historic part of the city to prevent such an act of corporate vandalism again.

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

In some ways the campaign by the locals was probably unnecessary, because the feeling is that the city would eventually have been added to the register anyway. It speaks for itself.

Getting lost in Valparaiso

Valparaiso is a place to get lost in. And to do so is to find yourself in a wonderland of colours and architecture.

The streets are a maze, suddenly turning into footpaths or staircases.

They wind up and down the hills with no apparent forethought, following the contours of the terrain or the needs of the residents.

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

As the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda, once said in his ode to the city:

What nonsense
You are
What a crazy
Insane Port.
Your mounded head
Dishevelled
You never finish combing your hair
Life has always surprised you

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Neruda’s house sits atop one of the hills of Valparaiso, watching the mess of buildings below. Communities fill every bit of land stretching from the sea to the ragged skyline.

Each house is painted a different colour; no two adjacent buildings the same; a panoramic kaleidoscope.

I’m told by a local guide that this is because the owners used leftover paint from ships at the dock, whatever colour was available, not necessarily a preferred one.

The history of Chile’s cultural capital

Once upon a time the residents would get up the steep hills on funiculars – cable cars that ran up the mountains. Some of them still run but they seem more for the tourists than the locals.

I had been told to just walk the city, to soak up the vibe. What I found was a community that had become by accident, with a love of life and a sense of humour.

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

It was once one of the richest metropolises in South America. Its port connected the United States and, to a certain extent, Europe to the natural resources of the southern continent.

But an economic crisis with the sale of saltpetre, political changes in the country and, most importantly, the opening of the Panama Canal all took its toll on the financial side of the city.

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

From those economic ashes, Valparaiso has risen over the decades to become the cultural capital of Chile. The only government department to be based here is the Ministry for Culture, which says something.

Visiting Valparaiso in Chile

Come for the views, stay for the culture. Something like that.

Either way, it’s a magical city to get lost in and one you hope you never find your way out of.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more info click here. You can see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I’ve visited here.
Chile Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT CHILE?

To help you plan your trip to Chile:

  • What you’ll see on a free walking tour of Santiago
  • Here’s why you’ll see so many healthy street dogs in Chile’s capital
  • The wonderful quaint fish market in Santiago
  • Valparaiso: The most colourful city in Chile
  • Visiting an incredible abandoned mining town in the Andes
  • Climb to the top of an active volcano covered in snow
  • Things to do in Pucon
  • Why the churches in Chiloe are a World Heritage Site
  • Learn about the mythology of southern Chile

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of the Chile, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Chile.

You could consider:

  • The W Trek (6 days)
  • Highlights of Chile and Argentina (10 days)
  • Discover Patagonia – National Geographic (14 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Bodlagz |

    March 2, 2012 at 8:40 pm

    Reply

    What a wonderfully picturesque place, shame about the glass tower, guess it belongs with it’s own kind. Definitely not the best place for showing off corporate wealth.

    Love the 4th photo down, it’s enticing and just makes you want to go and explore the place.

    • Turtle |

      March 3, 2012 at 12:40 pm

      Reply

      Yeah, the glass tower is unfortunate because it’s the only building in the historic part of town that doesn’t really fit in. Still, there’s plenty to explore regardless.

  2. Nina F |

    March 3, 2012 at 10:45 am

    Reply

    Makes me want to run trills up and down a piano stairway.

    • Turtle |

      March 3, 2012 at 12:41 pm

      Reply

      If only it played music when you walked on it. Now that would be cool!! 🙂

  3. Stephanie - The Travel Chica |

    March 7, 2012 at 1:33 am

    Reply

    I loved Valparaiso! I stayed a week and could have stayed so much longer.

    • Turtle |

      March 7, 2012 at 6:11 am

      Reply

      I know! It’s not that there’s much to do there. But it’s just such a lovely place to hang and soak up the atmosphere!

  4. Stephen |

    March 7, 2012 at 8:35 pm

    Reply

    Wow, great photos and story, I’ve always wanted to go here, especially since I am an Neruda fan, now I really want to go after this cheers.

    • Turtle |

      March 7, 2012 at 10:40 pm

      Reply

      They talk a lot about Neruda in Valparaiso and in Chile. I actually didn’t get a chance to visit any of his houses, which I now regret, but I hear they’re amazing. Perhaps it would be worth a trip for you one day?

      • Stephen |

        March 8, 2012 at 8:50 am

        Reply

        Oh trust me, Chile is on the list, a dream that will come truth. Class looking site you have here.

  5. Laura |

    March 21, 2012 at 5:42 am

    Reply

    Wow, I love those piano stairs!

    • Turtle |

      March 22, 2012 at 1:38 am

      Reply

      Aren’t they awesome? Sadly no music as I walked down them 🙂

  6. Sade |

    March 25, 2012 at 5:49 pm

    Reply

    i’m so jealous you walked the piano steps! do you know the story behind those stairs? i have a picture of them posted on my website, and finally the other day someone was able to tell me where in the world these stairs are…i need to know the story!

    • Turtle |

      March 27, 2012 at 2:47 am

      Reply

      I’m actually not sure of the story behind them. I didn’t look into it because, in some ways, I thought you could enjoy them better without knowing anything about them. They are in a rather nondescript part of Valparaiso and really take you by surprise when you find them.

  7. Andrew |

    March 29, 2012 at 5:48 am

    Reply

    Seems a little sleepy, but very colorful. The character of the buildings reminds me both of Spain and of San Francisco in places, though somehow with more creativity.

    • Turtle |

      April 2, 2012 at 1:08 am

      Reply

      Yeah, I think it’s definitely got a lot of Spanish influence there. And I think the sleepiness adds to its charm.

  8. Steven Taylor |

    May 8, 2012 at 11:18 am

    Reply

    I’ve been living here in Valpo for the past 4 years and i love it. Shame some of the comments seem to have concluded its a sleepy city, when it’s far from it. Great blog name by the way!

    • Michael Turtle |

      May 10, 2012 at 5:59 pm

      Reply

      I suppose it’s ‘sleepy’ in the sense that there are parts of the town that are quite relaxed and the joy is just to wander the streets and take your time looking at the views and the houses. But you’re completely right that there’s a real buzz in the busy areas of the city that just add to the fun of the place!

  9. Fabian Puentes |

    October 24, 2012 at 3:45 am

    Reply

    Been there, done that! Just loved Valparaiso, though stayed there just a few days. Great pace to meet people as well.

    Regards!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 24, 2012 at 10:40 am

      Reply

      I feel like you can see most of the highlights in a few days. But the longer you stay, the more you discover. There are so many beautiful little hidden gems in the city – including the people! 🙂

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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