A capital of change

The historic centre of Vilnius shows a city that’s been through a lot of turmoil but is now proud of what it is.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.


Historic Centre, Vilnius, Lithuania

The main street of Vilnius, lined by government buildings, cultural institutions and shopping centres, is currently called Gediminas Avenue.

I say ‘currently’ because it has changed names several times over the course of modern history since it was built in 1836. It was originally called St George Avenue but was renamed Mickiewicz Street (in honour of the Polish poet) in 1922 when the city fell under Polish rule.

During the occupation by Nazi Germany, it was renamed again to Adolf Hitler Street. Later, under the Soviet Union, it was called Stalin Avenue and then Lenin Avenue.

The current name has been in placed since 1989.

Historic city, Vilnius, Lithuania

I mention all of this because it’s an easy way to understand that Lithuania’s capital is a city that has seen a lot of political change over its existence.

It has been occupied by foreign powers, burned to the ground, welcomed foreign immigrants en masse, been allied with neighbours, and fought for independence.

There has rarely been stability in Vilnius. Historically, this has probably been partly because it’s in the direct path between two major capitals – Berlin and Moscow.

But now the city finds itself at peace and the influence of its past has become one of its greatest cultural assets.

I’ve got some tips on the best things to see in Vilnius, but you’ll get a lot more out of a local tour. This one will take you to all the top sights.

Or there are some other good tours of the city here:

I always think hearing the stories from a local brings a destination to life.

Historic city, Vilnius, Lithuania

On my first day in town, I start to explore by foot and soon reach the end of Gediminas Avenue. The main street finishes at the centre of the historic city, where the most important landmarks can be found.

Rising up ahead of me is a castle on a mountain (not to be called ‘a fort on a hill’, as I’m repeatedly told by the locals, even though that’s more what it looks like.)

Gediminas Castle

I walk up the path to the top of the mountain/hill to see what remains of Gediminas Castle. It is here that the founder of Vilnius, Gediminas the Grand Duke of Lithuania (for whom you’ll notice the main street is now named after), constructed a wooden castle in the early 1300s after legend says he had a dream of an iron wolf howling from the site.

Gediminas Castle, Vilnius, Lithuania

There’s nothing left here of the wooden castle. In fact, there’s not even that much left of a stone castle that was the last fortress to sit on the site. But from the ruins that remain, you can look out and survey the booming city that Vilnius has become.

Gediminas Castle, Vilnius, Lithuania

The first thing I notice is how many church spires there are, rising up from the orange-tiled roofs of the buildings in the historic city.

These will serve as landmarks as I make my way though the streets over the next few days. Each significant in its own right, together they form a kind of map that I use to navigate.

Church of St Francis

One of the most beautiful ones I can see is the Church of St Francis. Later, when I walk over to the church that sits by the side of the river, I see up close how special it is.

The monumental red brick building is inherently Gothic but with Renaissance and Baroque features added later.

Interestingly, you can see evidence of how it, like the name of the city’s main street, has changed over time as different occupiers used the building for various functions – including as a fortress, a warehouse, and an art gallery.

Church of St Francis, Vilnius
Church of St Francis, Vilnius

Vilnius Cathedral

However, the most important church you can see from the castle on the mountain is directly below – Vilnius Cathedral. From ground level, the Neoclassical facade makes it look more like a Roman temple. Inside, I find a more traditional Catholic design, filled with artworks.

Vilnius Cathedral, Lithuania

The cathedral is where the Grand Dukes of Lithuania were coronated, where some of the leading figures of Lithuania’s history have been buried, and where a congregation still gathers regularly to worship.

It is not just the historical centre of the city, but also the cultural centre for much of the population.

Vilnius Cathedral, Lithuania

Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania

Right next to Vilnius Cathedral is another large and impressive building – the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. Don’t be fooled by how it looks, though. It was only officially opened in 2013!

Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, Vilnius

The palace you see here today is a complete reconstruction of the old palace when it was at its zenith. It was once an important and powerful building that eventually fell into disrepair and was completely torn down in 1801.

The decision to rebuild it was controversial at the time with a range of complaints by locals – including that the money should be spent on restoring buildings that still existed and that it would ruin the views and landscape of the area.

While I can’t really comment on those specific concerns, as a tourist, I think it’s a marvellous addition to the historic centre of the city and the museum inside has a great collection telling the story.

Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, Vilnius

However, as I wander around Vilnius over the next few days, I think more about it.

Perhaps the rebuilding of the Palace of the Grand Dukes represents the same thing as the renaming of the main street. After centuries of different occupations, of wars, of shifting borders, Vilnius – and Lithuania – are again in a prosperous period of peace.

Historic city, Vilnius, Lithuania

The city wants to celebrate its history but it wants to celebrate the periods it is proud of and that capture the heart of the country. There are plenty of examples throughout the streets of beautiful buildings and squares to be cherished.

But there are lots of ways to experience the different layers of Vilnius.

Historic city, Vilnius, Lithuania

Vilnius drew me in immediately with its warm and charming atmosphere and, by the time I leave, it has not let go.

In this story I have talked a fair bit about the history and the main tourist attractions but there is much more to the city than that.

To find out more, join a local host and focus on your own particular interests.

And you should also check out one of the local food tours so you can taste all the great Lithuanian dishes!

There is also a spirited contemporary culture that I hope to be able to see more of some time. But, in many ways, you need a strong foundation of the past to be able to build a dynamic future. And that’s what we can see here in the historic city centre.


The nicest accommodation is in the historic centre but you’ll get better value if you go into the surrounding suburbs.


There are quite a few backpacker places in town but a nice and relaxed option is Fabrika Hostel.


Although it’s not right in the centre, you’ll get a great price at the Vilnius City Hotel, and it’s not too far away.


With really cool designs in each room, if you’re looking for boutique, you’ll love Artagonist Art Hotel.


And I think the nicest luxury hotel in the whole city is the five-star Grand Hotel Kempinski.


This site is on the UNESCO World Heritage List!
I'm on a mission to visit as many World Heritage Sites as I can. Only about 800 more to go... eek!

3 thoughts on “A capital of change”

  1. Very valuable information, it is not at all blogs that we find this, congratulations I was looking for something like that and found it here. – sameday shirdi flight package from bangalore, bangalore to shirdi sameday flight package


Leave a comment