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A city divided and conquered

March 29, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 57 Comments

WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Last Updated on March 29, 2019

The two great mosques of Istanbul

The two buildings look across the crowded square at each other. Like Istanbul itself, they both divide and join the citizens and their history.

Represented within these two great landmarks is the core of the city’s heritage.

If the buildings were people, historical figures even, they would be eyeing each other off with an acceptance of contemporary diplomacy but with memories of a violent past.

This is the beauty today of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque) and Hagia Sophia.

Turkey, and Istanbul in particular, has always been a melting pot of culture and religion. As the bridge between Europe and Asia, it has been the battleground for physical and ideological warfare over the centuries.

But a constant struggle is unsustainable. Eventually one world became another and the past became a story rather than a daily reality.

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

On one side of Sultanahmet Park, Hagia Sophia dominates the skyline with its red walls and minarets. It was originally built in 360 AD and for more than a thousand years was a Christian church.

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

It belonged to the Orthodox Catholics for the whole time, except for a 57 year period between 1204 and 1261 when it was a Roman Catholic cathedral.

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

In the ebb and flow of the cultural tides, this ‘occupation’ was more than a ripple.

Relics from the church – described as a stone from the tomb of Jesus, the Virgin Mary’s milk, the shroud of Jesus and the bones of saints – were stolen and sent to the west.

But it was two hundred years later that the most dramatic wave was felt.

Sultan Mehmed invaded the city in 1453 and, upon capturing the building, declared immediately that it should be turned into a mosque.

The tide shifted and the cultural makeup of the city was set in the direction that would lead it to modern times.

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

Today, Hagia Sophia is a museum. From the inside and the outside, it looks like a mosque and it’s hard to imagine the cathedral form.

The low-hanging lights in the main hall add a glowing brilliance to the room, while the enormous dome is one of the best examples of Byzantine architecture.

The high ceilings – higher than most religious shrines in the world – make you feel insignificant in the presence of a deity.

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

It’s not hard to understand why this landmark has always been considered one of the most important in Istanbul. Emperors have been crowned here, refugees have taken shelter here, treasures have been hidden here.

As I said, it is technically a museum now, but you can feel the life within the walls.

Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Istanbul

On the other side of Sultanahmet Park, the red is juxtaposed with the blue. Although technically called the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most people just refer to it as the Blue Mosque because of the colour of its interior tiles.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The enormous structure was completed in 1616… long after Hagia Sophia fell into Islamic hands.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The construction of the mosque was ordered by the young sultan, Ahmet I, who, at the age of just 19, decided he wanted a building more impressive than the Hagia Sophia.

Whether he achieved that aim is probably a matter of opinion. Regardless, it is a masterful mosque which can be appreciated from the inside and the outside.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The big difference is that this is still an active place of worship and the tourists (and they number in the thousands every day) must be respectful.

But to see the mosque with its worshippers, to hear the sounds of faith, and to feel the spirituality makes a visit even more special.

Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

In 2006 the head of the Catholic Church, Pope Benedict XVI visited the Blue Mosque. It was only the second visit of a pope to a Muslim place of worship in history.

It was probably no coincidence that this was the site he visited. As he noted at the time, Turkey “will be a bridge of friendship and collaboration between East and West”.

Two buildings, two religions, hundreds of years, one history. The bridge which Benedict XVI refers to is at the core of the city.

You’ll get a lot more out of a visit to the mosques with a guide – and luckily there are some excellent tours available in Istanbul. I would recommend any of these:

If you’re looking for a budget option, I think Stay Inn Taksim is the perfect mix of comfort and atmosphere.
A good cheap and comfortable option is Meretto Hotel LALELİ.
For something a bit special, I would suggest either the heritage Celine Hotel, or the more modern Hammamhane.
And if you're looking for 5-star luxury, I think the best value is Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet, and my ultimate favourite is Raffles Istanbul.
This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more info click here. You can see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I’ve visited here.

Turkey Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT TURKEY?

To help you plan your trip to Turkey:

  • What you need to know about the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia
  • Visiting the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul
  • Why this is an important part of Istanbul’s World Heritage Site
  • The beautiful travertines that are worth the visit
  • The City of Love: Is this Turkey’s best ruins site?
  • The museum at Bodrum that takes you under the water
  • Why the Lycians were such an important part of Turkey’s history
  • See the Lycian tombs from the centre of Fethiye
  • Saklikent Gorge offers the perfect natural adventure
  • How to make (and eat) Turkish Gozleme

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of Turkey, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Turkey.

You could consider:

  • The best of Turkey (8 days)
  • Turkey Multisport (10 days)
  • Absolute Turkey (15 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Angela |

    October 3, 2012 at 2:16 am

    Reply

    Wonderful Istanbul, what a stormy past this city has seen and experienced.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 3, 2012 at 8:28 pm

      Reply

      I think that’s one of the things I love so much about Istanbul. it’s got a long history but also such a complex and conflicted one!

  2. Kirsten |

    October 3, 2012 at 3:07 am

    Reply

    Beautiful photographs roomie. I’d hate ya for the talented way in which you illustrate the photos with words if I didn’t, instead, like you so much.

    Keep being so eloquent, it makes your blog one I truly love to visit.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 3, 2012 at 8:29 pm

      Reply

      Thanks, love! If only I could take photos as well as you then I wouldn’t need any words. I hope everyone who reads this comment goes and checks out your site!!

  3. Natalie - Turkish Travel Blog |

    October 3, 2012 at 2:31 pm

    Reply

    Your photos are so much better than mine. Going away to stamp my feet, have a tantrum and cry now!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 3, 2012 at 8:31 pm

      Reply

      Ha ha… I love your photos and coverage of Turkey. Your site should be required reading for anyone who’s thinking of visiting the country.

  4. Italian Notes |

    October 3, 2012 at 6:24 pm

    Reply

    You’ve really succeeded in capturing the magic of those two mosques.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 3, 2012 at 8:36 pm

      Reply

      Thanks. ‘Magic’ is probably the best way to put it. There really is something special about those buildings.

  5. D.J. - The World of Deej |

    October 3, 2012 at 11:01 pm

    Reply

    One of your best here man…

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 3, 2012 at 11:40 pm

      Reply

      Thanks, mate. I really enjoyed visiting both mosques and wanted to make sure I did them justice in the story.

  6. Laurence |

    October 4, 2012 at 2:16 am

    Reply

    Wow, incredible photography. Love the colours and the details in these two buildings. Turkey is so stuffed with history.. we’re going to have to visit soon!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:02 am

      Reply

      The colours are amazing, you’re right! The photos pretty much take themselves somewhere like this. You’ve really got to get over there soon, man!

  7. Christina @ Packed Suitcase |

    October 4, 2012 at 4:38 am

    Reply

    That mosque is simply beautiful. I love the ornate coloring of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque’s stone tiles. Is that a huge chandelier hanging above, or candles?

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:05 am

      Reply

      I know – there’s so much detail you can stand there for so long and just stare at it. The lights are all electric, there are no candles in there (probably a fire hazard…)

  8. Elmer Cruz |

    October 4, 2012 at 1:37 pm

    Reply

    What a beautiful and magical place! Your photos are stunning., makes me wanna pack up my bags and head on out there.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:08 am

      Reply

      I hope you get a chance to get there soon. Istanbul is a city that everyone should visit at least once. Such an important place in history!

  9. A Montrealer Abroad (@amontrealer) |

    October 4, 2012 at 8:59 pm

    Reply

    Beautiful photos as always 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:13 am

      Reply

      Thanks for that!

  10. Adela @FourJandals |

    October 5, 2012 at 5:14 pm

    Reply

    I loved the Blue Mosque, but both are such beautiful buildings! You have captured them really well.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:22 am

      Reply

      It’s so hard to choose favourites. But maybe it’s a bit like children… you always end up liking one more than the other… 🙂

  11. Natasha von Geldern |

    October 6, 2012 at 7:23 pm

    Reply

    A beautifully written and structured post Mr Turtle! And I LOVE your interior shots of the mosques. Nice work!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:54 am

      Reply

      Thanks Natasha. The interiors are beautiful but they’re such stunning buildings from the outside too! That’s one of the reasons people love these buildings so much, I think.

  12. Leyla Giray |

    October 7, 2012 at 6:59 am

    Reply

    There’s hardly anything more fun than reading a superbly written story, with great visuals, about an exciting place… you’ve made my day!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 7, 2012 at 11:56 am

      Reply

      Oh, thanks Leyla. The biggest pleasure was meeting you in Spain! Hope to cross paths again soon!! 🙂

  13. Jade - OurOyster.com |

    October 8, 2012 at 12:56 pm

    Reply

    Visiting Turkey has been so high up on my list for a long time – I love the way you have presented the two mosques – I can’t wait to see them in real life

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 22, 2012 at 11:44 am

      Reply

      You’ll love it when you get there. Such an awesome city (and country).

  14. Linda McCormick |

    October 8, 2012 at 4:29 pm

    Reply

    Such beautiful images. Can’t believe I spent so much time in Turkey, but never went to Istanbul. Stupid woman! This post has made it just go a little higher on my list.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 22, 2012 at 11:45 am

      Reply

      There’s so much to do in Turkey, I can understand how you might have run out of time. But Istanbul is certainly one of the most interesting cities in the world. Keep on moving it higher up the list! 🙂

  15. leon |

    February 6, 2013 at 11:07 pm

    Reply

    Sultanahmet is fascinating and a fantastic place .. And quality photos .. Oldies but goldies…

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:35 pm

      Reply

      Thanks, Leon. It’s one of the most incredible buildings I’ve ever visited – and so photogenic as well!!

  16. Jim |

    June 26, 2013 at 4:57 pm

    Reply

    Hi Michael,
    Lovely Photos! I have to correct you on some historical facts. Hagia Sophia does look like a church and there are enough features of Orthodox christianity in and on it to show. It predates all mosques and Islam itself. What happened since 1453 is that its beautiful design has been copied for all mosques by Muslims. Hence what appears to be is not really what it is

  17. Brian |

    November 9, 2013 at 9:04 pm

    Reply

    Just to put this in perspective, the mosque purpose was to appear more impressive than the adjoining christian church. Is that a good reason to build it? It is if you are inflicted with a massive inferiority complex and you had just finished invading the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and raping then killing everyone within the walls of Constantinople. Ah, but I digress.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 10, 2013 at 8:44 pm

      Reply

      I don’t think this is the first time there was conflict between religions and I’m sure it won’t be the last. You’re right, it is sad to see people be so blinded by their own faith that they can’t accept another’s views. But at least in this case the result was a couple of beautiful buildings! 🙂

    • John P. |

      May 7, 2018 at 11:45 pm

      Reply

      The Ottomans didn’t conquer the Holy Roman Empire (which was based around Germany) but the Roman (Byzantine) Empire.

  18. Nin |

    April 21, 2014 at 11:07 am

    Reply

    Believe what? i got revert to this page becoz I rather confuse whether the blue mosque and Hagia Sophia is the same building or not. Ur writing is good, and the picture is wonderful. nice post 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      April 23, 2014 at 11:45 pm

      Reply

      Thanks for visiting. I hope you got the answer to the question!! 🙂

  19. Tyo |

    June 3, 2014 at 4:21 pm

    Reply

    I wrote Hagia Sophia vs Blue Mosque on Google and your site was on the first list, on top of Wikipedia!
    That’s how you know you’re awesome..

  20. Siti Hajar Ahmad |

    December 12, 2014 at 3:29 pm

    Reply

    Great write up and photos on Hagia Sophia & Blue Mosque. Looking forward to visit them both very soon.

  21. Ticking the Bucketlist |

    January 18, 2015 at 6:42 am

    Reply

    Loved the pictures….We were here two years and dont think we did justice to the place with our camera 🙁
    Maybe its time to revisit the wonderful city!

    • Michael Turtle |

      January 30, 2015 at 4:22 am

      Reply

      Both of these buildings are so photogenic! I had trouble capturing them from outside because there are lots of things in the way but there were so many wonderful angles inside. I kind of want to go back and do even more too!! 🙂

  22. Levent Toprak |

    February 20, 2015 at 11:20 am

    Reply

    I want to thank you for all your photos and writes about Turkey. Most of Turkish citizens didn’t visit that you have visited, and I am sure government publications not affected as yours. Thank again for presenting beautiful side of Turkey.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 21, 2015 at 9:12 pm

      Reply

      Thanks, Levent. I feel like I still only saw quite a small part of Turkey so will have to go back sometime and see some more. I can’t wait!

  23. Farhan |

    December 5, 2015 at 4:53 pm

    Reply

    Fantastic read material. I am planning a journey through Turkey myself. I am planning to publish photobook about my visit to Turkey. More details can be found http://bit.ly/1liga72.

    You can follow the progress of my trip here: http://on.fb.me/1GzD6T4

    • Michael Turtle |

      December 14, 2015 at 7:58 am

      Reply

      Good luck with the trip – I’m sure you’ll have a great time!

  24. Alison Jones |

    March 25, 2016 at 2:16 pm

    Reply

    Hello-
    Beautiful photos!! I currently teach English as a Second Language in Minnesota, but taught in Turkey in 2003-2004. I was doing a combination English grammar/Geography lesson yesterday and used your photos- MUCH better than mine! Thanks much!!
    One note, though- the building that exists now was finished in 537. It was an older building on the same site that was built in 360. Here’s a link to the museum webpage that describes the history. http://ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr/en/history
    I’ve done some other teaching overseas- Iraq, Afghanistan, Bosnia- and did some free traveling all over Europe… if you’re ever in Minneapolis, find me on couchsurfing- I’d be happy to put you up and trade stories!! Alison Jones

  25. Fred Haight |

    June 25, 2016 at 10:36 pm

    Reply

    What I am wondering is if there is a way in which the Blue Mosque is deliberately patterned after Hagia Sophia. I see similarities but can’t put my finger on them.

  26. James Devou |

    August 13, 2016 at 1:29 am

    Reply

    “Orthodox Catholic ”
    You lose a lot of credibility there, no such thing

  27. Idyll Sophia |

    January 7, 2018 at 9:56 am

    Reply

    The first name of the Church was ‘’Megale Ekklesia’’ which means ‘’the Grand Church’’. The first Hagia Sophia was built in 360. It was a wooden-roofed basilica, built on the site of a pagan temple. On the contrary to the popular belief, it was donated by Constantinus II not by Constantine the Great. (Source: https://hagiasophiaturkey.com )

    When its roof was burned by a fire in 404 and destroyed mostly in a second fire in 414, a great believer of orthodoxy Theodisius II dedicated another church in 415. Among the ruins of Theodisius’ church, you can see the architrave of twelve sheep that represents the twelve apostles of Christ in front of the monumental entrance.

    As a step on the way of a secular country, Hagia Sophia was converted into a museum by the order of Atatürk and reopened in 1935.

  28. Wangdi |

    June 4, 2018 at 7:34 pm

    Reply

    Koran is a falsified document by roman emperor Constantine Constantine beholds goth goth

  29. Adria |

    November 8, 2018 at 9:27 am

    Reply

    Thank you so much for this tour of both monuments, jewels of a Grand past, enjoyable for years to come!!!

  30. William Stewart |

    June 10, 2019 at 6:22 pm

    Reply

    Why no commentary about the fundamental rudeness of Muslim Turks and Otto Ana when Saint Sophia’s (Hagia Sophia) was forcibly desecrated to become a Mosque, but now its a “museum” while the Blue Mosque remains a Madjid? Why haven’t modern Turks allowed the Greek Orthodox Metropolitan of Constantinople reconsecrate it as their Cathedral? Instead, the inside of the “museum” the current dictator of a Turkey Erdogàn began Qur’anic recitations during Holy Week in this yeAR.

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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