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Bathing in Budapest

October 13, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 16 Comments

LOCAL EXPERIENCE

Gellert Baths, Budapest

In the past century, the Gellert public baths in Budapest have only ever been closed once – when a major pipe burst. But, other than that, they have opened every single day through winters, wars, bombings and recessions.

And now, in this spectacular old building with so much history and resilience, I am standing naked and awkward.

“Take your shorts off”, the middle-aged stocky Hungarian masseuse had just instructed me.

Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary

I had thought a massage would be a good idea and had seen the main carpeted room where other people were getting one on soft beds. But it was apparently full and so I had been to taken to a strange annex.

The room was tiled all over and echoed when my bare feet hit the marbled floor. The air was moist and seemed to drip from the ceiling.

The whole room was quite large – certainly unnecessarily large for just the one massage table – but most of it was taken up with a therapeutic pool that an old man was floating in.

So here I am, naked in a humid tiled room, waiting to lie down on a bed and be kneaded by a Hungarian. This is not how I expected this experience to go.

Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary

But experiencing a traditional bath in Budapest is one of the things you should while you’re in this city. Gellert, where I am, is one of the big two – the other being Szechenyi.

There are other famous ones too – Rudas, Kiraly, Csaszar or Lukacs, for example.

Most of these baths are large and have different sections all interconnected with each other. Here at Gellert, for instance, there is a large outdoor pool, a couple of indoor swimming pools, hot soaking pools, steam rooms, plunge pools, and massage areas.

You can (and many people do) spend all day moving between them and sunbaking on the deckchairs around.

Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary

If the steam rooms don’t take your breath away, the interior of the buildings will. Officially they are Art Nouveau but throughout are traces of Ottoman elegance or Roman sophistication.

If that all sounds a bit confusing, let me put it another way. It feels fancy.

There’s nothing particularly posh about the baths, though. They are used by people from all walks of Budapest life.

On the weekends, when the families come, they can be particularly busy. Places like Gellert are also popular with tourists.

Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary

I’m imagining what it would have been like here before the Second World War, before the tourists, when spending a day in a building so elegant would have been the epitome of social style, when I’m disturbed from my daydreams by the stocky Hungarian masseuse.

Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary
Gellert Baths, Budapest, Hungary

“You can put your shorts back on now.” I must have dozed off slightly.

Startled, I look around. We’re alone in here now – the old man in the therapeutic pool has left but the moisture in the air has remained.

It’s quiet and calming. I enjoy the moment for a few more seconds before I slip off the table, pull my shorts back on, and head off back to the pool.

>> More info here about the Gellert Baths in Budapest <<

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN BUDAPEST

I think the best area to stay in Budapest is in the Jewish Quarter or closer to the Danube.

BACKPACKER

There are some great hostels in Budapest but Wombats has the best combo of style and location.

BUDGET

The best value hotels can book out early but you can get good deals at Roombach Hotel Budapest Center.

BOUTIQUE

With a cool design, Hotel Memories OldTown has thought of everything – including a pillow menu.

LUXURY

Some of the 5-star hotels in Budapest feel rather dated, but Aria Hotel has a fresh luxurious atmosphere.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Becky the Great |

    September 25, 2013 at 9:42 am

    Reply

    So are the baths unisex, or divided like in Asia? And were swimsuits mandatory? That’s one of the things that always strikes me as awkward when you go to a public bath, figuring out whether or not it’s a bath in terms of nudity.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 25, 2013 at 9:50 am

      Reply

      At the Gellert Baths it’s unisex and you wear swimsuits. Most of the baths in Budapest are like that. It’s really got a feeling of a public pool.
      The Rudas Baths have separate days for different genders, though.

  2. Lauren Meshkin @BonVoyageLauren |

    September 25, 2013 at 3:44 pm

    Reply

    I loved Gellert Baths and Budapest in general! The interior blew me away as well. Luckily, I went on a very quiet weekday about two summer’s ago. Perfect way to spend a warm afternoon. Great post, thanks for sharing!

    Happy travels 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 25, 2013 at 9:01 pm

      Reply

      I think it would be fantastic on a quiet day. It wasn’t even too busy when I went and it felt crowded enough. I don’t reckon I would want to try to go there on a busy summer weekend. It is so beautiful, though, isn’t it?

  3. Esther |

    September 25, 2013 at 10:38 pm

    Reply

    Really like the last photo of the ceiling. Beautiful.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 4, 2013 at 8:32 pm

      Reply

      Oh, yes, the ceilings of the building were just beautiful. It all added to the whole experience!

  4. apol | Wanderful Together.com |

    September 26, 2013 at 1:35 am

    Reply

    What difference do these baths have with common swimming pools?
    I think it would feel great to swim in a pool inside a grand and elegant building…. and dream you are a goddess or a god from the Roman mythology.

    LOL. I’m starting to dream!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 4, 2013 at 8:33 pm

      Reply

      I guess the big difference is that people often go to swimming pools to do laps or get some exercise. The baths are very much about relaxing and soaking. It’s much more of an ‘experience’.

  5. Karen @ Trans-Americas Journey |

    September 27, 2013 at 1:01 am

    Reply

    Culture AND cleanliness!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 4, 2013 at 8:35 pm

      Reply

      A perfect combination for the hardcore traveller! 🙂

  6. Tara |

    September 27, 2013 at 4:17 am

    Reply

    Did you try famous Gellert Roll filled with the chocolate? Yummy!!!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 4, 2013 at 8:36 pm

      Reply

      Oh no, I didn’t. Damn, wish I could go back now and have one. I miss Budapest already!! 🙂

  7. Corinne |

    September 28, 2013 at 12:39 am

    Reply

    We loved Budapest! While we didn’t have time to bathe, we did drink the spring water. Next time we go we’re definitely hitting the baths! Great article, very informative.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 4, 2013 at 9:45 pm

      Reply

      The waters of Budapest are incredible – glad you got to experience some of it at least. If you make it back sometime, definitely try one of the baths!

  8. Melissa |

    October 20, 2019 at 11:51 am

    Reply

    Yes this is a must place to visit! The bath houses with massages are AMAZING! Can’t wait to get back there next year to be pampered!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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