The Turkish pancake cooked on the street
The woman sits on the ground smiling at me… she knows I have already made up my mind. The man keeps talking loudly and fast… he’s too preoccupied with his spiel to notice that I’ve taken a step forward.
It’s hard to resist the lure of the gozleme in Turkey. It’s cheap, it’s quick and it’s tasty. It might even be good for you – I’m not sure, I tried not to think about that as I moved closer to have my second of the day.
She reaches towards her ingredients, the woman on the ground, as I nod and ask for a gozleme with spinach and cheese. The scattering of flour across the table and her clothes shows she’s a professional. Only someone comfortable with their work would leave their studio in such a state.
She chats with her friends, all also sitting cross-legged on the ground, as she begins. One of the best things about the ‘Turkish pancake’, as it’s colloquially known, is that you get to watch it be cooked right in front of your eyes.
Here’s how it’s done… and, as you’ll see, it’s really simple.
The woman pulls out a mound of dough she’s keeping in an airtight container. It’s a mixture of plain flour and wholemeal flour that has been kneaded with water and a small amount of salt the night before. The best dough is left overnight before being used in a gozleme.
She puts it onto a board and attacks it with a rolling pin. Back and forth she moves the wooden stick, wrapping the sticky dough around it, before peeling it back off. She flicks flour over the top, bringing the mixture to the right consistency.
Over half the dough, in the shape of a semi-circle, she drops on a pile of chopped spinach and spreads it out. Then, using her fingers, she breaks small chunks of feta cheese over the top of the spinach. Oh, and don’t forget a bit of oil.
The large hot plate sizzles next to her. It’s round, convex, and looks like the top of an enormous metallic mushroom. She throws the rolled out dough over it and the smell of cooking bread wafts up.
Folding, turning, flipping. She traps the fillings inside the pancake and cooks both sides until they are slightly brown. With the heat coming off the plate, it doesn’t take long.
And then it’s done. The hot packet of tastiness is complete and she wraps it up into a cylinder and puts it into a paper bag. The man then presents it to me. The cooking here is the woman’s job – the transaction is left to the male.
One of the reasons the gozleme is so popular in Turkey, one of the reason why I love them so much, is that the fillings offer so much variety. There’s the sweet – chocolate, fruit… and the savoury – vegetables, meat. For every time of the day there is an option, a reason to be drawn back to the pancake-makers of the country. And for only a dollar or two, it’s one of the best deals around.
To get an update on the next Time Travel Turtle story, click on the LIKE button below:
loading...
Turtle, like the name suggests, likes to take things slowly. Luckily that's one of the best ways to see the world - and that's exactly what he's doing at the moment.
This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.
24 Responses
This looks great. I just got back from a demonstration of cooking by a Turkish chef who made something similar containing lamb, so now I’m keen to learn more.
Steve recently posted..Planning a trip to Myanmar
Well, if you’ve just had a demonstration, you should be an expert!
And the ones with lamb are so tasty! Personally, I preferred the savoury to the sweet gozlemes.
I love Turkish Gozleme. Potato and spinach is my favourite. I can remember when I was in Cappadocia with hubby. There was one women who cooked them at Panoramic view. Never tasted one as good as that since.
Natalie – Turkish Travel Blog recently posted..14 Famous Landmarks of Istanbul
Ha ha – I think everyone always remembers their favourite gozleme. Funnily enough, mine was where I took these photos in Pamukkale.
Order up about 3 of these for me. Looks delicious! Love the smile on that lady, too. Very nice.
Cathy Sweeney recently posted..Roses on the Mediterranean
Three is a good idea – one never seems to be enough!
I love gozleme! I always have it every time I go to flea markets in Sydney. And you’re right, the aroma of cooking these pancakes is just so scrumptious, you can’t help having a second serving! Great instructions on the cooking process.
Elmer Cruz recently posted..Who Speak Worser? – Adventures in Bad English
I expect you to try to cook your own now you’ve got the instructions!
…so where do I get my metallic mushroom?? And why have I never heard of Gozleme, despite living in Cologne, Germany, which is basically half-turkish? How could I have missed out? Sad, sad -I need to start paying more attention, it seems. Or travel to Turkey. Yeah, probably travel to Turkey. Anyway, very nice post, and while I love all the pictures, the last one is so cool! I mean, how could you not take anything this man gives to you? He’s sexy and he knows it!
Vera recently posted..Overeating in Costa Brava
Now you’ve set yourself a challenge, Vera! Next time you’re in Cologne, I want you to find a sexy Turkish man who can make a gozleme pancake for you. You’ll wonder how you ever lived before without them!
Or, yeah… travel to Turkey. That will do it too.
mmmm….tasty indeed! Yet another reason to head to Turkey:)
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Fort Lauderdale’s Identity Crisis
As if you needed another reason!!
It’s delicious, I love anything Turks can make it with their bread!
Angela recently posted..Harvesting in Sardinia, time to produce the new wine
They really have mastered the art of food, haven’t they? Although I felt a bit bread-bloated after a while.
Hi All
Glad you enjoy the article, here are 7 free gozleme recipes for you to try.
I hope you enjoy them.
Cheers
Ooops here is the link
http://www.turkishthymecooking.com.au/turkish-recipes/gozleme/
Reyhan recently posted..Lemon Tahini Dip
Thanks for sharing, Reyhan. They look delicious!!
Gozleme is the best! Spinach and cheese was my favourite. And I always found the woman making them were so smily and happy! Used to love watching them create this tasty meal for me
Adela @FourJandals recently posted..Facing my Fears – Hot Air Ballooning in Costa Brava, Spain
Who wouldn’t be happy if your job was to serve up such delicious packages of goodness to people all day! (And probably sneak a couple for yourself too…)
That would go well with a bit of Spanish ham methinks. Although doesn’t everything?
Laurence recently posted..A month in New Zealand–my perfect itinerary
You’re still thinking about Spanish ham? It could be time for an intervention…!
It’s ginormous!
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Best coffee in Seattle (or How much caffeine can I drink?)