The two great mosques of Istanbul
The two buildings look across the crowded square at each other. Like Istanbul itself, they both divide and join the citizens and their history. Represented within these two great landmarks is the core of the city’s heritage. If the buildings were people, historical figures even, they would be eyeing each other off with an acceptance of contemporary diplomacy but with memories of a violent past.
This is the beauty today of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (the Blue Mosque) and Hagia Sophia.
Turkey, and Istanbul in particular, has always been a melting pot of culture and religion. As the bridge between Europe and Asia, it has been the battleground for physical and ideological warfare over the centuries. But a constant struggle is unsustainable. Eventually one world became another and the past became a story rather than a daily reality.
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
On one side of Sultanahmet Park, Hagia Sophia dominates the skyline with its red walls and minarets. It was originally built in 360 AD and for more than a thousand years was a Christian church. It belonged to the Orthodox Catholics for the whole time, except for a 57 year period between 1204 and 1261 when it was a Roman Catholic cathedral.
In the ebb and flow of the cultural tides, this ‘occupation’ was more than a ripple. Relics from the church – described as a stone from the tomb of Jesus, the Virgin Mary’s milk, the shroud of Jesus and the bones of saints – were stolen and sent to the west.
But it was two hundred years later that the most dramatic wave was felt. Sultan Mehmed invaded the city in 1453 and, upon capturing the building, declared immediately that it should be turned into a mosque. The tide shifted and the cultural makeup of the city was set in the direction that would lead it to modern times.
Today, Hagia Sophia is a museum. From the inside and the outside, it looks like a mosque and it’s hard to imagine the cathedral form. The low-hanging lights in the main hall add a glowing brilliance to the room, while the enormous dome is one of the best examples of Byzantine architecture. The high ceilings – higher than most religious shrines in the world – make you feel insignificant in the presence of a deity.
It’s not hard to understand why this landmark has always been considered one of the most important in Istanbul. Emperors have been crowned here, refugees have taken shelter here, treasures have been hidden here. As I said, it is technically a museum now, but you can feel the life within the walls.
Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Istanbul
On the other side of Sultanahmet Park, the red is juxtaposed with the blue. Although technically called the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most people just refer to it as the Blue Mosque because of the colour of its interior tiles. The enormous structure was completed in 1616… long after Hagia Sophia fell into Islamic hands.
The construction of the mosque was ordered by the young sultan, Ahmet I, who, at the age of just 19, decided he wanted a building more impressive than the Hagia Sophia. Whether he achieved that aim is probably a matter of opinion. Regardless, it is a masterful mosque which can be appreciated from the inside and the outside.
The big difference is that this is still an active place of worship and the tourists (and they number in the thousands every day) must be respectful. But to see the mosque with its worshippers, to hear the sounds of faith, and to feel the spirituality makes a visit even more special.
In 2006 the head of the Catholic Church, Pope Benedict XVI visited the Blue Mosque. It was only the second visit of a pope to a Muslim place of worship in history. It was probably no coincidence that this was the site he visited. As he noted at the time, Turkey “will be a bridge of friendship and collaboration between East and West”.
Two buildings, two religions, hundreds of years, one history. The bridge which Benedict XVI refers to is at the core of the city.
This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more info click here.
You can see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I’ve visited here.
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Turtle, like the name suggests, likes to take things slowly. Luckily that's one of the best ways to see the world - and that's exactly what he's doing at the moment.
This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.
31 Responses
Wonderful Istanbul, what a stormy past this city has seen and experienced.
Angela recently posted..Harvesting in Sardinia, time to produce the new wine
I think that’s one of the things I love so much about Istanbul. it’s got a long history but also such a complex and conflicted one!
Beautiful photographs roomie. I’d hate ya for the talented way in which you illustrate the photos with words if I didn’t, instead, like you so much.
Keep being so eloquent, it makes your blog one I truly love to visit.
Kirsten recently posted..Win a Trip to Morocco!
Thanks, love! If only I could take photos as well as you then I wouldn’t need any words. I hope everyone who reads this comment goes and checks out your site!!
Your photos are so much better than mine. Going away to stamp my feet, have a tantrum and cry now!
Natalie – Turkish Travel Blog recently posted..What’s Dave Doing in Turkey?
Ha ha… I love your photos and coverage of Turkey. Your site should be required reading for anyone who’s thinking of visiting the country.
You’ve really succeeded in capturing the magic of those two mosques.
Thanks. ‘Magic’ is probably the best way to put it. There really is something special about those buildings.
One of your best here man…
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Epcot Food & Wine Festival Survival Guide
Thanks, mate. I really enjoyed visiting both mosques and wanted to make sure I did them justice in the story.
Wow, incredible photography. Love the colours and the details in these two buildings. Turkey is so stuffed with history.. we’re going to have to visit soon!
Laurence recently posted..The pictures they don’t want you to see
The colours are amazing, you’re right! The photos pretty much take themselves somewhere like this. You’ve really got to get over there soon, man!
That mosque is simply beautiful. I love the ornate coloring of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque’s stone tiles. Is that a huge chandelier hanging above, or candles?
Christina @ Packed Suitcase recently posted..A Girl’s Guide to Starting a Campfire
I know – there’s so much detail you can stand there for so long and just stare at it. The lights are all electric, there are no candles in there (probably a fire hazard…)
What a beautiful and magical place! Your photos are stunning., makes me wanna pack up my bags and head on out there.
Elmer Cruz recently posted..Feast in the East: Etiquette Tips for Fine Dining in China
I hope you get a chance to get there soon. Istanbul is a city that everyone should visit at least once. Such an important place in history!
Beautiful photos as always
A Montrealer Abroad (@amontrealer) recently posted..Postcards from artsy Montreal
Thanks for that!
I loved the Blue Mosque, but both are such beautiful buildings! You have captured them really well.
Adela @FourJandals recently posted..Photo Essay from around Costa Brava
It’s so hard to choose favourites. But maybe it’s a bit like children… you always end up liking one more than the other…
A beautifully written and structured post Mr Turtle! And I LOVE your interior shots of the mosques. Nice work!
Natasha von Geldern recently posted..Destination Vietnam: Hue and the Perfume River
Thanks Natasha. The interiors are beautiful but they’re such stunning buildings from the outside too! That’s one of the reasons people love these buildings so much, I think.
There’s hardly anything more fun than reading a superbly written story, with great visuals, about an exciting place… you’ve made my day!
Leyla Giray recently posted..Guimarães, Portugal: Women, Hearts and History
Oh, thanks Leyla. The biggest pleasure was meeting you in Spain! Hope to cross paths again soon!!
Visiting Turkey has been so high up on my list for a long time – I love the way you have presented the two mosques – I can’t wait to see them in real life
Jade – OurOyster.com recently posted..Travelling With Children – Interview With Discover Share Inspire
You’ll love it when you get there. Such an awesome city (and country).
Such beautiful images. Can’t believe I spent so much time in Turkey, but never went to Istanbul. Stupid woman! This post has made it just go a little higher on my list.
Linda McCormick recently posted..The Idyllic Island Getaway: Phu Quoc, Vietnam
There’s so much to do in Turkey, I can understand how you might have run out of time. But Istanbul is certainly one of the most interesting cities in the world. Keep on moving it higher up the list!
Sultanahmet is fascinating and a fantastic place .. And quality photos .. Oldies but goldies…
leon recently posted..Sultanahmet Tours | Guide | Trip
Thanks, Leon. It’s one of the most incredible buildings I’ve ever visited – and so photogenic as well!!