Time Travel Turtle

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The world’s oldest backpacker

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INCREDIBLE PERSON

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John Waite

There is something that seems out of place about John Waite the first moment I see him. We’re in a youth hostel and the common area is full of backpackers – chatting, drinking, playing guitars and doing whatever else backpackers do on a sunny afternoon to pass their elastic view of time.

John is hanging out with everyone but he’s not like the others. He doesn’t have the impetuous spirit you sometimes find, nor does he have the veiled insecurities of some of the other travellers.

John is grounded. John is content. John is 89 years old.

When John’s wife died in 1982 he decided to leave his adopted home of Melbourne. He didn’t pack up his house or break ties with his children and grandchildren. He just decided to make the world his home – and almost 30 years later he is still on the road.

World's oldest backpacker, John Waite

He travels on the cheap… the life of the backpacker suits him. Every night he stays in hostels, surrounded by young travellers who are separated by generations but brought together with a simple introduction and a chat.

“I went into a hostel in Dubai one time,” he remembers.

“The woman at the reception said ‘this is a hostel for young people and they make a lot of noise’ and I said ‘well if I can’t sleep when I go to bed then you’ll probably find me in the middle making the noise with them’.”

World's oldest backpacker, John Waite

He chats with the other guests at our hostel as they wander in and out of the common areas and he brings a cheeky but innocent tone to the conversations. Those who have been here for a while know him well and they share stories about the day – and about the past. John says he enjoys the company and community of the backpacking life.

“I was in the army for long enough to get used to sleeping in dormitories,” he explains.

“I meet wonderful people. They’re all younger than me, ok, but everyone likes to talk.”

John prefers not to talk about the war, even though he mentions it quite often and uses it as a reference point for many of his characteristics and decisions. He just doesn’t go into detail because it’s still something that’s just too raw.

“Sure I have a nightmare or two,” he says.

“I think I was shouting out in my sleep last night and the two who were in the room must have thought ‘what the hell’.”

He pauses.

“But it’s more entertaining than snoring.”

We both laugh.

World's oldest backpacker, John Waite

Originally from England, John moved to Australia decades ago when a pound could buy you a boat ticket to the other side of the world. He’s always had a sense of excitement and you can see the adventure in his eyes. During his travels he’s collected an anthology of stories that would leave any global nomad impressed.

He’s trekked with monks in the snow of Pakistan, worked with the United Nations in Sudan and even parasailed in India. Oh, and he was 75 when he did that.

Whenever he returns home to Melbourne to see his family, he shares the stories. There’s always one thing the young ones notice, though.

“My grandsons go through my photos,” he says, “and they say they want to come away with me because I get better girls than they do!”

More laughter.

John travels light – really light – and his backpack normally weighs just 5 kilograms. He has one change of clothes on and one change in the wash. When he’s in colder climates he finds someone is usually happy to lend him a jacket or a jumper. He’s not one for creature comforts. One hostel he tells me about in China had a room where he slept with more than 40 other people.

Over the 30 years of travel he’s developed a few favourite countries. He loves the United States and has a lot of good friends across America. He also likes Denmark, Norway and, slightly ironically, Germany.

John is the one who uses the word ‘ironically’ when he mentions Germany. Many people assume he would dislike the country because of his past. He says it’s actually quite the opposite.

“The army never taught me to hate,” he says. “It taught me how to kill but not how to hate. I’m sure the Germans were the same, and I’ve got wonderful friends there.”

World's oldest backpacker, John Waite

His travels have brought him into danger many times. Sometimes in places you wouldn’t expect but, more often than not, in regions that are embroiled in conflict. John doesn’t go looking for trouble but, at the same time, he wants to see the world. That’s why he’s on this journey. He’s had 89 good years on this planet and he’s spent the last 30 exploring it. He’s not prepared to compromise at this stage in his life.

“I don’t have a death wish but if you’re going where there’s troops and firing going on you’re going to get your collection as well somewhere down the line,” he says.

“But I want to live, I love it.”

** Part 2: The adventures – John meets Mother Teresa, gets stoned in Islamabad, and is left for dead on a road in Mexico

Reader Interactions

    Comments

  4. Reply

    Noooooooo. I want to read the second instalment now!!

    My dad is 78 and travels the world a couple of months at a time, staying in a mix of cheap hotels and hostels. He’s not quite like John though, more like Mr Bean. He returned from his latest adventure last month, recalling the time he ended up in a Belfast nightclub til 3am with two 24 year old nurses. He complained about not recognising any of the music so I asked him why he stayed out so late. He answered, “Because it was open.”

    With age I have realise that I am indeed my father’s daughter.

    Can’t wait to hear more about John. 🙂

    • Reply

      Well, exciting news! The second part of the story is up now!
      And that’s cool about your dad – you’ve really got to admire people who keep on moving.

  5. Reply

    He is really an amazing person. I learned a lot from John, but I’m sure there are more valuable things to learn from him. He will serve as my inspiration. Such person is worth remembering. I salute you John.

  9. Reply

    Great story. There is a guy I see on a regular basis here in Appleton who runs wearing nothing but a pair of shorts and tennis shoes. He’s in his early 90’s. He looks like he’s going to fall over dead any second, but he’s out there every day. Amazing!

    Unless styles are different in your region, I could see he has the typical out-of-style look of too short of shorts. I see a lot of older men wearing shorts that were in style 20 years ago. It always makes me smile!

    • Reply

      Ha ha – yeah, there’s something about fashion and old people that always makes you wonder when they stopped buying clothes 🙂 At least John’s shorts keep the weight in his backpack down…

  11. Reply

    Fascinating story, and John seems like a fascinating character. Reminds me of my favorite poem, Dylan Thomas’ “Do Not Go Gentle Into That Good Night,” where he says “old age should burn and rave at close of day.” Hope i”m still as spry and spunky when I reach that age!

  12. Reply

    Wow. What a great story. You were very lucky to have met him. He makes me feel like such a baby when I don’t want to sleep in a dorm room! Good for him – I hope he’s my roommate in Paris!

    • Reply

      I know exactly what you mean! Never again will I complain about a dorm room. If John can do it for 30 years then it’s about time I manned up a bit!! 🙂

  20. Reply

    What a wonderful story! I hope that I am at the same hostel as John someday – would love to have a chat over a cup of tea with him. Looking forward to the next installment!!

  22. Reply

    Wow — what an inspiring and entertaining read. It’s been a long time since I read a long post like that all the way through. (Am I allowed to admit that?) Bravo!

  26. Reply

    Great article. John is a great example, inspiration and my kind of guy 🙂 I hope I still will be able to be on the road at that age! I wish him many more travel years!

  27. Reply

    I wonder if he was the gentleman in Brooks-Silva Braga’s backpacking documentary?! There was a very old backpacker in that film who I so admired and his story was not unlike this one.

  28. Reply

    This is a great post! I can just imagine meeting this guy – wow! To have been a traveler for the last 30 years… Just think of the changes he’s seen, countries that have come and gone…. Amazing. I’ve been gone for just over two years now, and can only hope to aspire to this!

  31. Reply

    Love these blog posts – John is my hero! I hope I am still backpacking at 89! This backs up my belief that age is all in the mind. If we decide to get old, we do .. if we decide not to, we don’t. Way to go, John .. I wish you a good many years of backpacking and you have a place to stay if you ever come to Vancouver (BC, not Washington).

  32. Reply

    This reminds me of a man that was staying at my hostel in the Atacama Desert in Chile, although John seems much more spry. This man had to have been at least 90 and I never saw him do anything but sleep or shuffle back and forth from the bathroom. He must have been doing something out there in the desert though, and I was just impressed that he was there at all. I hope I’m still travelling at that age!

    • Reply

      Ha ha. To be honest, if I was out in the Atacama Desert and was 90 years old, I wouldn’t be doing much either! Good on him for still giving it a go, though!

  34. Reply

    Often I think that people believe there is an “age-limit” on this type of nomadic, independent, budget travel. John is an inspiration, and shows us all that the limits exist inside our own minds. It’s a priceless lesson, thanks for bringing it to the world.

  35. Reply

    I LOVE meeting people like this when I’m on the road. In Mexico, I met a Vietnam Vet who was in his 60s. He had terminal cancer and was making the most of the last days of his life. I wrote about him here: http://girlunstoppable.com/2010/12/do-not-go-gentle/

    We were at the same hostel for a couple weeks, and I have so many great memories of sitting on the roof listening to his fascinating life stories. I’ve met quite a few backpackers who think backpacking is for the 18-25 set (which I’m a few years beyond now so I’m old in their eyes, haha), but really some of the greatest people I’ve met on the road have been in their late 50s and beyond.

    • Reply

      That would have been so nice to have heard the stories from that guy. There is a lot to be said from making the most of the time you have – however long that may be! Your post about Jim is beautiful!

  36. Reply

    This guy is definitely one of a kind. Traveling proves to be good for his health because he looks really good. His sense of humor is uncanny, these types of people are definitely worth writing about. Thank you for sharing!

  40. Reply

    What a lovely post highlighting that age is no reason to go out there and travel! If I meet John one day, I’ll be sure to sit down and have a long chat with him 🙂

  41. Reply

    Thanks so much for the story; I’m sixty-two; I just returned from hiking trip in Utah with my oldest son and a couple of his friends; he sent me the link to your article about John. I’m enjoying my newly started retirement: again what an inspiration and great story!!!

    • Reply

      Thanks Lindon! That’s great to hear you’re making the most of retirement. People like John show that you’re never too old to do anything you want. So pleased to hear you got some inspiration from his story! Ps. I’m very jealous about the hiking in Utah. I would love to go there and do that sometime!!

    • Reply

      Dear John is definitely fearless. I’m so pleased he’s been such an inspiration to people. It sounds like you had an inspirational guy in your life too! You should feel really lucky.

  48. Reply

    I have had the privilage of living across the road from this inspirational and amazing man for the past 20 plus years we have shared many a whiskey and a beer or 2 in that time he has always been there for me in many ways and i have the utmost admiration and respect for him as they say “you cant keep a good man down”, and “age is a state of mind” he is living proof of both !!!!!!

    • Reply

      Wow – you’re a lucky man, Ken. I would love to have spent a bit more time with John and heard more of his stories (especially over a whiskey or a beer). He was such a nice man and it doesn’t surprise me at all to hear that he helps out his neighbours. Please give him my regards when you next see him!

    • Reply

      I’m so pleased to be able to share it. Sounds like your grandfather is quite a guy too! I’m always so impressed with people who find or continue their passions when many others their age just slow down.

  53. Reply

    Wow, so inspiring! 30 years on the road. I love the comment about the war teaching hope to kill, not how to hate others. This is one traveller that I’d love to meet on my travels. Keep writing Micheal – really enjoyed this piece.

    • Reply

      Fingers crossed you do get to meet John one day. As you can see from the comments above, a few people have bumped into him along the way. I guess that’s inevitable when he’s always on the road, staying in backpacker hostels!

    • Reply

      Thanks, Adam. You can check out the link at the end of the article for the second part of the story. Hopefully I can see John again one day and do a real follow-up story, though!!

  57. Reply

    Hi Michael,
    I really enjoyed reading this post- I am (for the first time in my life) traveling abroad without my family and husband – Yes. Alone. Easy for some. not so simple for me! As I’m listening to you being interviewed on ‘How to Become a World Famous Travel Blogger.’ This has led me to thinking about hostels differently and reminds me of who we met when we travelled long term as a family at different places.

  58. Reply

    Perfect timing, reading about this amazing man. I’m 69 (it’s only a number) and just completed 8 weeks in Vietnam (3rd trip) and Cambodia. Although I’ve never stayed in a Hostel this article opens my eyes for further travel. I’ve travel a lot with others and solo now, with photography as one of my passions. My photography has opened the door to many friends, who frankly take me into their world. I just love it. Back in California now for 2 weeks I’m interested in John’s way of life. Budget minded, I can see the opportunity of expanding my horizons rooming hostels. I’m just going to do it. Thanks for sharing this.

  60. Reply

    the articles really inspires me to think positively towards travel and life ahead. wish you every single day is nice day….

  63. Reply

    This is great! I’ve met a few elderly travellers and they usually have the best stories to tell. Every now and again there is someone who is actually crazy, but even then it’s usually entertaining if they are friendly. I’m glad he’s still travelling- encouraging for all of us!

    • Reply

      Oh yeah – I know just what you means. The stories are always so fascinating! Although perhaps it’s just because they’ve had so many years to practice telling them! 🙂

  65. Reply

    Great post! I love that he doesn’t let his age stop him or dictate what he ‘should’ be doing. Wish more people had his youthful attitude. I want to be like him when I grow up.

  66. Reply

    I am retired and traveling out of Thailand. I do much the same, travel alone, stay in cheap places and enjoy both young and old on the adventure. As a photojournalist for 30 years for a major wire service I now shoot for me, all those things and places I said I would comeback to one day.

    • Reply

      I bet you are loving your time being able to photograph for your own enjoyment and not for an assignment. I can understand that a little. Sometimes I travel just to collect photos and stories and it’s never quite the same as going slowly with no agenda at all. Great to hear you’re loving it!

  67. Reply

    I met John in 2004 in a hostel in London and I’ve never forgotten this wonderful and intriguing man. We shared tea together and chatted for days on end and his enthusiasm for life was inspiring. I thought of him recently and found this article and all the memories came back. Anyone who’s met him has been better for it. I’d love to know if he is still with us? Thanks Mark

    • Reply

      Thanks, Mark. It’s interesting how nobody ever has a bad word to say about John. I’m not sure where he is these days. I hope he’s still backpacking around somewhere…

  71. Reply

    John is living the dream. My Uncle who has since passed away was Backpacking well into his 80’s. I once asked him why and he said because the accommodation is cheap or words to that effect. I believe he only stopped travelling when he couldn’t get travel insurance anymore

  81. Reply

    Such an amazing story. We don’t have to live the ‘mainstream’ accepted idea of an elderly life. We shouldn’t be held back by age. I feel he is healthy at 89 years old because of his content in traveling and living the life he wants.

  84. Reply

    And for all that are wondering are you still kicking and causing mischief so proud to call when my grandad love always and forever from Neil Wilkinson

  87. Reply

    I have not backpacked for a while so feel like I have to get back to it. My amazing backpack adventure was in the Sierra Mountains in Spain. It was an adventure finding the beginning of the trail since the ranger said you will see a restaurant that will be the beginning of the trail. He didn’t tell me it was a 2.5 hr drive up the mountain including a one way dirt mountain side road and entrance to the restaurant and crickedy extremely tall bridge. Yes want backpack in Europe again all National Parks as well as US. Anyone heading to So. Florida for an amazing cranial sacral neuromuscular manual lymphatic massage. Marie Theresa DAvis

  88. Reply

    At 71 , I love the idea of backpacking and hope to continue fro as long as possible. We have been backpacking since 2003 when we spent 6 weeks in Namibia. My only problem now is getting reasonable priced in surance but no company or broker wants to cover us for more than 30 days and we want out next trip to cover 102

  89. Reply

    Hi all
    Letting you all know my Pop is still kicking and doing well.
    I think you well be in America at the end of the year with my uncle.

  92. Reply

    So glad I stumbled upon this post. I’m currently living in Melbourne – might have to find John and ring him up for a chat! The people you meet traveling really are one of the best parts of the experience. Thanks for sharing!

  93. Reply

    This an incredible blog, I came across today. It made my day to see the old person enjoy and make the most of their lives!
    I loved my Granny and its a blessing to come across old people who are so jubilant and would love to explore and travel the world.

  103. Reply

    Just staggering…I thought I had travelled a lot over the years, but John has spent the last 35+years travelling, truly inspiring. It teaches us all a good lesson to get out there.

  104. Reply

    I really enjoyed reading this article. What a guy! I’m nearly 60 and was thinking I was getting long in the tooth.