The ghetto and the church

Religion has caused so much conflict over the years. So it’s always nice to find examples where different faiths have lived together in harmony. Even if not everything seemed fair at the time.

In the small Czech city of Třebíč in the Czech Republic, Jewish and Christian communities co-existed for centuries, from the Middle Ages until the 1900s. In many ways, this should not have been a big deal, but the world is not a fair place, and having these two peaceful neighbourhoods in Třebíč was unusual.

It started in 1101, when a Benedictine monastery was built here. That led to a market being created nearby, and that brought Jewish traders to Třebíč.

From that period, the Jewish community in Třebíč grew, to the point where it needed its own neighbourhood, known now as the Jewish Quarter. It was located on the river, just below the Christian church of St Procopius Basilica, which was built in the 13th century.

And although the years saw horrible persecution of Jews across Europe, and the edges of these tensions often reached within the neighbourhoods at Třebíč, the town stayed relatively peaceful.

The Jewish Quarter existed for over 500 years surrounded by the monastery and the Christian town, with very little persecution. Despite what was happening in surrounding regions, the Jews were never expelled from Třebíč – which is considered an example of great tolerance from the Christian community here at the time.

Three main sights in Třebíč that show this history have collectively been named as a World Heritage Site. It’s this that brings me to Třebíč, a town that is rarely on the tourist route.

With a population of about 30,000 people, Třebíč isn’t quite small enough to be charming and is just large enough to have a fair amount of industrial area outside of the historic centre. Other than the World Heritage Site, there probably is little reason to visit.

But, having said that, there are a few other things to do in Třebíč that can fill out your time here, if you’re interested in coming to see the main heritage sights.

World Heritage Site

Close to each other, across the river from the main historic part of Třebíč, three different parts of town create an ensemble that has been declared a World Heritage Site. The highlight is St Procopius Basilica, while the Jewish Quarter is also very interesting. The third element is the old Jewish Cemetery.

St Procopius Basilica

St Procopius Basilica came first. It was built between 1240 and 1280, after originally being part of a Benedictine monastery.

It was regarded to be so important that the city of Třebíč was founded around it to support the commercial needs of the residents.

It stands on a slope above the town, with views down to the river that cuts through the urban centre. From below, you can see the grand shape of the building, Romanesque with some Gothic features.

Going inside (which you can only do as part of a tour), you first pass through the door with incredibly-detailed stone carvings all around.

Inside, the church has the feel of harsh stone that is typical of the time but is decorated with golden artworks and glows purple from the stained-glass windows.

St Procopius Basilica is one of the first examples of Western architecture in Central Europe and for that reason alone would be a significant site. What makes it even more interesting is the neighbourhood that grew up right next to it.

The Jewish Quarter

It’s believed that the first Jews began to arrive in Třebíč sometime after the Benedictine monastery was built here, although the first record of a residence is from the middle of the 14^th century – less than a hundred years after the basilica was completed.

They set up their new community in a part of Třebíč next to the river at the foot of the hill on which St Procopius Basilica stands.

Over the coming centuries, cruel social policies may have led to suffering for the Jews in this part of Europe – but it has left us with an authentic and homogenous cultural ghetto.

Jewish people were not allowed to live in other parts of the city so, as the population grew, they had to be creative with what they had. Houses were expanded – in whatever direction was possible – and the buildings ended up with complicated layouts.

To get into many homes, the residents had to actually walk through somebody else’s house. By the late 18^th century, there were an average of 17 people living in each house!

Despite all of this, though, there was very little racial tension in Třebíč.

Considering the overall situation in Europe, this was a relatively tolerant city. The policies to keep the homes of Jews and Christians separate were just that – policies. It didn’t necessarily reflect the mood of the general public here.

And so, when Jews were granted equal rights in the 1860s, many of them stayed in Třebíč bit move to larger and nicer houses on the other side of the river.

The richest families tended to move to big cities like Vienna. Only the poorest stayed where they were.

Today the Jewish Quarter has been preserved and restored – especially since it was listed as a World Heritage Site in 2003. Most houses have residents – but some have converted parts of their homes into shops, cafes or artist workshops.

You can walk through the streets of the Jewish Quarter and explore it by yourself. But the one specific landmark I would recommend is the (combined) Rear Synagogue and Seligmann Bauer House.

The interior of the synagogue is decorated with beautiful 18th century paintings and there’s a small exhibition inside of ceremonial objects.

Next door is the Seligmann Bauer House, which has been converted into a museum showing life in the Jewish Quarter in the early 20th century, including a grocery store on the ground floor and a kitchen and bedroom on the first floor.

The Jewish Cemetery

Up the hill above the Jewish Quarter, a short walk but far enough to feel separate, is the Jewish Cemetery.

These days it is quiet and peaceful and has the atmosphere of somewhere that is cared for but with a light touch, so as not to disturb nature too much.

The floor is covered with a thick growth of leaves, surrounding the tombstones that rise up from within the green carpet. Trees grow amongst the graves and their branches create a canopy of shade above.

The cemetery is large and spreads out along a slope with paths leading through it all. I find it calming to walk around and I take my time.

Most of the tombstones – particularly the older ones – have writing in Hebrew so I can’t read what they say. I guess the dates on them are old, though. Almost as old as the houses I have just seen.

And that’s ultimately what makes Třebíč so interesting. To have different parts of a city for different religions might seem odd for us today, but the tolerance between the Jewish and Christian residents is also something you might not expect in such an environment.

Castle Complex

Along with the three main elements that I’ve just discussed, Třebíč Castle is also part of the World Heritage Site. But it’s really included in the listing more for practical reasons, because it is physically attached to St Procopius Basilica.

Just because it doesn’t fit within the theme of religious harmony that led to the UNESCO listing, doesn’t mean it’s not important, though. Třebíč Castle was built over the location of the original Benedictine monastery and you can walk through the grounds to see the building exteriors, herb garden, and old moat.

As well as the castle building itself, there are several exhibitions here that are worth visiting.

Museum of Vysočina Třebíč

Set within the former Waldstein Castle, the Museum of Vysočina Třebíč is the main exhibition in town, taking you through the natural and cultural history of Třebíč and the surrounding region.

It has four permanent exhibitions, covering topics like the environment, medieval monasteries, the Waldstein Family that once lived here, and the crafts and industries of the town.

With admission costing only 80 CZK (US$3.10) for an adult or 50 CZK (US$2) for a concession, I would recommend popping in to get a better understanding of Třebíč.

Crafts of the Past

On the ground floor of one of the castle’s wings, you’ll find the exhibition called Crafts of the Past, which has examples of some of the most important traditions of Třebíč, including things like gingerbread making, blueprinting, saddlery, and pearl processing.

Attached to the exhibition, and included with the entry ticket (30 CZK, US$1.10) is another small museum called Journeys Through Time, which is very family-friendly. Although it covers topics like medieval architecture and town politics, it does it with fun interactive displays.

Předzámčí Gallery

You’ll find the Předzámčí Gallery at the front of the castle, in a relatively small space on the ground floor. It hosts regularly changing art exhibitions from regional artists, covering different media like paintings, illustrations, and sculptures.

Tympanon Gallery

Over in the old stables building, the Tympanon Gallery is another art space for temporary exhibitions, focusing on regional artists and photographers.

As well as the exhibition, you can tour through the stables to see some of the heritage parts of the buildings here.

The symbols of this era have been well-protected and are all so close to each other.

Třebíč is not the most exciting city in the Czech Republic and I can promise you that you won’t have missed out on much if you skip it on a trip here.

But, at the same time, you won’t be disappointed if you stop in and have a look around. It’s just another interesting layer in the story of Central Europe’s history.

Museums

As well as the museums and galleries in Třebíč Castle, there are a few other interesting museums in different parts of Třebíč that may be of interest.

Memorial Hall of Antonín Kalina

Although this is quite a small exhibition, it’s a really important one – and an insight into a fascinating story that deserves more attention.

Antonín Kalina was imprisoned by the Nazis in the Second World War for being a communist but used his time at the Buchenwald concentration camp to save other prisoners – mainly Jewish children – from being killed. It’s estimated he saved at least 900 lives.

Although he didn’t gain the same kind of notoriety as someone like Oscar Schindler, his efforts have finally been recognised by many institutions, including in his hometown of Třebíč, where this hall tells his story and those of some of the people he saved.

FRANTA Gallery

One of the most important artists in the Czech Republic over the past century is František Mertl, who uses the name FRANTA.

Born in Třebíč, he was part of an art movement that portrayed the social and existential crises that had arisen after the Second World War. The human figures he painted in his works, usually naked, are disconnected from reality, torn between elements, in landscapes of conflict.

Although his art is shown around the world, the FRANTA Gallery in the courtyard of the National House keeps a permanent exhibition in his hometown – and it’s really special that you’re able to see it here.

Model of Třebíč

Housed within the gallery of the Pasáž Theatre, this model of Třebíč depicts the town in 1835 in a miniaturised form that covers an area of about 27 square metres.

It’s an incredibly detailed model that includes small things like animals in gardens, piles of wood, and even laundry blowing in the wind. Artist Stanislav Vrška used old pictures, engravings, and maps to put together the artwork that gives you a wonderful impression of how the town looked about 200 years ago.

Other landmarks

While the elements of the city’s World Heritage Site are on the northern side of the river – and most of what I’ve mentioned so far is on that side too – there are still lots of things to see in Třebíč in the historic centre on the southern side.

Charles Square

The centre of Třebíč’s old town is Charles Square, considered to be one of the largest squares in the Czech Republic. It was founded in the late 13th century and has been the social centre of the city ever since.

Once a busy marketplace, it still hosts regular market days, as well as fairs and other cultural events. But for visitors, the most interesting aspects are likely to be the renaissance-style houses around the edges and the statues in the centre.

Painted House

The most significant building in Charles Square (which I think deserves its own special mention) is known as the Painted House. On the southwestern corner of the square, it’s easy to spot – because, well, it’s painted with scenes of Biblical characters.

The ground floor hosts an art gallery that has temporary exhibitions of regional artists, while on the first floor is the ceremonial hall. It’s here you can see the Kaiserpanorama, an early 20th century device where you look through eyepieces to see different perspectives of a photo. Although the machine is original, modern technology has been installed inside.

Town Tower

Built from 1335, the Town Tower stands tall above the historic centre, an icon of Třebíč. It was constructed as part of the town’s fortification system but managed to survive several attacks.

The Town Tower is now open to the public and you can pay to climb the 162 steps to the gallery about 35 metres above the street. From here, you get an excellent view of the city, including across to the other side of the river.

There are a few other things to see inside the tower, and it’s also worth having a look at St Martins Church, which it is attached to.

Modern architecture

Finally, after talking so much about the historic things to see in Třebíč, I want to mention some modern architecture, because the city has some interesting sights that were built in the early 20th century between the two World Wars.

For instance, there’s the UP Factory, which was designed in a style called Rondo-Cubist, which is a specialty in the Czech Republic.

On Charles Square, the City Savings Bank was designed by a famous Czech architect, Bohuslav Fuchs, with an interesting use of glass and reinforced concrete. He also designed the first public swimming pool in Třebíč.

And, if you want to see even more, you can head to Borovina on the city’s outskirts to see the 1930s reconstruction of the old shoe factory, which also has a striking combination of reinforced concrete, brickwork, and large glazed areas.

Because it’s not a particularly popular site, there aren’t really many tours to Trebic. However, there is this interesting tour from Prague that will take you to three lesser-visited World Heritage Sites in a day.