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Dumping the soviet symbols

May 14, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 30 Comments

ABANDONED STATUES

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

The head of Vladimir Lenin stares at me. Not the actual head, obviously. That’s safely protected inside his mausoleum in the centre of Moscow. I wouldn’t have been able to just walk up to that one without anybody stopping me to ask where I was going.

No, this one was easy enough to get to once I knew where I was going. Knowing where to go was the tricky bit.

This head of Lenin is not really advertised anywhere and is not intended to be seen by people like me.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

Lenin’s head, in this situation, is made of metal. It was once attached to a metal body that was decapitated long ago.

I’m not sure where the body is these days, if it even still exists. The point of this story is that nobody really cares.

This head, just like the body, has no value in the eyes of the people who now have possession of it.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

This head of Lenin that I’m looking at is just one of about a dozen statues that have been dumped behind a building on the outskirts of Estonia’s capital, Tallinn.

They are all from the former Soviet era that came crashing down when the Iron Curtain fell. These symbols of Soviet strength, of Soviet superiority, of Soviet dominance, were all meaningless to Estonia when the country gained its independence.

In fact, they were more than meaningless. They were offensive.

>> Read my story about Tallinn's abandoned Soviet prison <<

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

So they were torn down. Some of them were cut up. Some were left complete. And then they were dumped. Here. Behind a building away from the city centre.

The building has some significance – it is now part of the Museum of Estonian History – but the statues are not part of the exhibition.

It’s almost a coincidence that there’s a link between the location and the origin of the statues. It’s much more likely that this empty plot behind the museum was available and out of sight.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

The museum is closed until 2018 but you can still get to where the statues are. (In fact, you could apparently access them without buying a ticket even when the museum was open because they’re not officially part of it.)

All I need to do is walk through an archway at the side of the building and follow the wall around to the back. As I’m heading towards the back of the building, a worker opens a door and appears outside.

He looks at me briefly and then just walks away to smoke a cigarette. He doesn’t seem too concerned. I’m sure I’m not the first traveller who has come looking for these statues.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

There is the head of Lenin, which we’ve already discussed. Based on the cranial size, this must have once been the biggest statue.

There’s another head of Lenin on one side of the collection – this one slightly smaller and made of white marble.

On the other edge is a complete Lenin, head attached. He is made of metal and stands more than twice my height (so, about 4 metres high). He is dressed in a suit, one hand holding his lapel and the other clasping a hat near his waist.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

In between are all sorts of other Soviet relics. There is a statue of Stalin that is lying horizontal on the grass with weeds growing around it. Nearby is a warrior made of concrete with a helmet in his hand and medals on his chest has been cut in two.

And then there’s a tumble of metal pieces strewn across each other that, if fitted together again like a jigsaw, would make a grand centrepiece of brawny men carrying their empire’s power with them.

I don’t recognise some of the other things that have been dumped here.

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

This statue graveyard is odd, to say the least. Everything here seems to fit into some kind of purgatorial limbo.

The statues are not respected enough to be displayed as history but are culturally significant enough to not just be destroyed.

Are the Estonians hedging their bets, prepared to put them back on the streets if the Russians suddenly invade again one day, like the ugly vase your grandmother gave you?

Soviet statue graveyard, Tallinn, Estonia

It makes for an interesting little expedition this morning, though. I find the dozen or so items dumped here interesting. But what is more interesting is the mindset that led to the abandonment itself.

That says as much about Estonia today as the statues do about Estonia before the Iron Curtain fell.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN TALLINN

Although there’s more affordable accommodation in the suburbs, I recommend staying in the historic centre for the atmosphere.

BACKPACKER

There’s a great backpacker vibe at Tabinoya – and you can’t beat the location.

BUDGET

If you’re on a budget, I think Hotel Bern is great value for the historic centre.

BOUTIQUE

For a gorgeous boutique experience, I suggest St. Petersbourg Hotel.

LUXURY

And there are a few nice luxury options, but I think Schlössle Hotel is one of the best.

Estonia Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ESTONIA?

To help you plan your trip to Estonia:

  • 44 awesome things to do in Tallinn
  • Why Tallinn’s historic centre is a World Heritage Site
  • The Soviet statues that tell a story about modern Estonia
  • Exploring an abandoned Soviet prison… from behind bars
  • When art and a prison take on the Soviet legacy

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of Estonia, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have a great tour of Estonia.

Have a look at:

  • Baltic Adventure (13 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Dominique |

    November 5, 2015 at 12:00 pm

    Reply

    The statues at this particular Soviet statue graveyard look massive. I always try to find the resting places of Soviet statues – because they are so impressive yet so meaningless and useless.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2015 at 10:42 am

      Reply

      Some of them are really big. And when you see just the head and it’s enormous, you can only imagine how big the original statue was!

  2. Natalie |

    November 6, 2015 at 9:50 am

    Reply

    Like a graveyard really

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2015 at 10:41 am

      Reply

      That’s just what I thought too! I think it was treated like a dumping ground originally but now it has a bit more of a solemn feel to it.

  3. Katechka |

    November 6, 2015 at 10:11 am

    Reply

    Wow! One would have never thought that these statues will get an all new life view perspective. Thanks for making and sharing those pics! Happy to see the grass taking over. A nice remembrance of the times that should never return.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2015 at 10:41 am

      Reply

      Yeah – the grass adds a kind of eerie feel to it all, doesn’t it? It’s rather beautiful in an odd way.

  4. Chris |

    November 6, 2015 at 5:30 pm

    Reply

    Ahh so gutted I visited Tallinn but never knew about this place! Awesome pics too

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2015 at 10:40 am

      Reply

      I don’t think it is well known at all. Most people probably wouldn’t visit it – which makes the discovery of somewhere like this even more special!

  5. Pedro @travelwithpedro |

    November 7, 2015 at 2:39 pm

    Reply

    Great story, Michael. It’s interesting to see the contrast between former Soviet countries. Whilst Estonia, along with the other Baltic countries chose to move on and find their own paths others, like the Central Asian nations, are proud of their Soviet past and even long for those times. I was in Bishkek, in Kyrgyzstan, and they have a giant Lenin statue in the main park. It was amusing to see such a thing still standing, but perhaps that’s a way for them to keep their place in Mr Putin’s good books (??). 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2015 at 3:50 pm

      Reply

      That is interesting to hear about the different ways they treat the history. I haven’t been to any of this Central Asian countries but would love to see something like this. I’m very jealous of your Kyrgyzstan trip!! 🙂

  6. Mary @ Green Global Travel |

    November 10, 2015 at 10:58 pm

    Reply

    It is so interesting that so many of these statues embodying memories of Soviet power were all dumped in the same place. This symbolic abandoned “graveyard” raises some interesting thoughts and emotions linked to the time before the Iron Curtain fell. Really cool post.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 12, 2015 at 2:34 pm

      Reply

      I’m assuming they were dumped by the same people – probalby some Estonian officials – and they just needed a place to get rid of them. But it certainly makes you think, you’re right about that!

  7. Izy Berry |

    November 26, 2015 at 10:17 pm

    Reply

    This post is so interesting and different

    • Michael Turtle |

      December 14, 2015 at 7:55 am

      Reply

      Thanks Izy.

  8. Jade Johnston |

    April 17, 2016 at 12:01 pm

    Reply

    Have you visited the similar statue graveyard in Budapest?… although the Budapest is an actual attraction with a ticket price.

    • Michael Turtle |

      August 28, 2017 at 10:28 am

      Reply

      I didn’t know about the one in Budapest when I was there a few years ago. I’ve been meaning to go back to Hungary for a while so will have to look it up next time. Thanks!

  9. Jen |

    May 19, 2016 at 9:47 am

    Reply

    Can you please tell me where this is? I’m in Tallinn now and am not finding any info

    • Michael Turtle |

      May 20, 2016 at 3:28 am

      Reply

      Hi there. It is behind the Maarjamae Palace (run by Estonian History Museum) which is at Pirita tee 56.
      If you zoom in on the map at the top of the post, the marker is at the exact location. Good luck!

  10. Tom Tonks |

    October 13, 2016 at 7:03 pm

    Reply

    These are some of the best photos of the Soviet Statues that I have seen. Another excellent post from Estonia – but did you manage to find the hidden Sean Connery statue? Not as intimidating as Lenin I admit, but far more obscure 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      August 28, 2017 at 10:27 am

      Reply

      Oh, no, I didn’t! Where is the Sean Connery statue? Maybe it’s worth a trip back there one day soon! 🙂

  11. Silvia Poldaru |

    May 15, 2017 at 12:49 am

    Reply

    It’s not really a dumping ground for these Soviet statues. Estonian History Museum has been collecting them and will open the Monuments Park next year which will display the monuments as works of art, in a new neutral context.

    • Michael Turtle |

      August 28, 2017 at 10:26 am

      Reply

      Ah, that’s very interesting to know. I would be keen to see that when it opens!

  12. Mario |

    August 3, 2017 at 7:32 am

    Reply

    The statues have now been put on display in a small garden behind the museum, but the museum is closed. The statues can be partially seen from a distance through a fence.

    • Michael Turtle |

      August 3, 2017 at 8:09 am

      Reply

      Thanks for the update, Mario. When I was there the museum was closed and the statues were at the back – but there was no fence stopping you just going and having a look around yourself. Perhaps they’ve now closed it off for people like us… or maybe there’s still a way to get in? 😉

  13. Explorer Whiz |

    June 7, 2018 at 5:27 am

    Reply

    This is simply an amazing blog post. Good work, keep it up!

  14. Dave Knapp |

    November 8, 2018 at 8:48 am

    Reply

    I would like to go there. Is it still there? May I stay in a building nearby.
    Tallen is beautiful

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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