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Life in the Mekong

March 22, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 7 Comments

TRAVEL STORY

Mekong Delta, Can Tho, Vietnam

Life in the Mekong Delta is slow. Boats putter along the waterways at a casual but consistent pace. Putter putter putter.

They have places to go but they’re in no great rush. They’ll get there when their engines get them there. No point stressing. Putter putter putter.

The boats are carrying goods – to and from markets. They’re carrying locals between their homes and their jobs. And, perhaps most relevant for us, they’re carrying tourists to see the life that the water gives. Putter putter putter.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I’m spending a couple of days in the Mekong Delta here in Vietnam. I’ve based myself in the city of Can Tho, the largest population hub in the region.

The city is relatively large with a population of 1.2 million people but it feels like a small country town after the chaos of Saigon, which is just three hours drive away.

There are two parts of Can Tho that I think are most interesting.

The first is the riverfront, which is the focus of the tourist activity. Most of the hotels are here, markets fill the streets at night, and the boats for tours of the area leave from here. All you have to do is step outside your hotel and you’ll suddenly get an offer of a boat trip.

For the most part, these are genuine offers for decent tours from good natured people. If you say you’re not interested, you won’t be hassled – you’re more likely to get a baffled look. “What are you here for then?”

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I do say no. Consistently. Although a boat tour interests me, I’ve decided I am going to try to explore the rivers and canals of the Mekong Delta here in a different way.

This brings me to the second interesting part of Can Tho – the suburbs of the city that have developed around the small fingers of water that come off the main maritime thoroughfare.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

The standard trip for foreigners leaves from the central riverside in Can Tho early in the morning, not long after dawn (or even before) to go up to the famous floating markets.

From there, the boats go off the main river and into some of the smaller canals. In total, the trip usually takes about three hours.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

While there’s nothing wrong with these trips (assuming you are on one of the smaller boats – not the large ones that can’t go off the river), I develop my own alternative.

Looking at a map, I figure that I could actually walk to most of the places that the boats go. Sure, I won’t get the views from the water, but I am hoping to see a bit of the life on the shores instead.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I wonder whether I’ve made a mistake when I get to the floating market, about an hour’s walk from the centre of Can Tho. The name should have given me a clue that getting a boat would’ve been a better idea.

I can see the barges and ships in the middle of the river but, from here on the bank, I can see very little of what is going on.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

Most of the shoreline is taken up with buildings – workshops or storehouses that use the direct river access to load and unload goods. It’s hard to see through them.

There are only a few spots where I can actually stand near the water and look. I do wonder whether I’m missing much, though, the action out in the centre doesn’t look as colourful or lively as I had imagined.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I’m a bit disheartened but don’t give up. I move to stage two of my plan and turn off the road and into a small pathway that runs alongside a smaller canal of water.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

This is where I find what I am looking for. As well as the path alongside the canal, there’s a constant stream of activity.

Houses have been built right up to the edge – some are simple wooden shacks, some are larger and made from brick. Boats are tied to poles partially submerged by the banks; fruit grows from trees; birds jump between trees; and occasionally I hear the putter putter putter in the distance.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

Children ride past me on bicycles and wave. Motorbikes also go by and I normally get a smile from the rider.

This isn’t a busy pathway but it is the only access for all the people who live along here – and there’s quite a lot of them.

There is house after house and even some side roads that lead to other villages. Looking into the backyards, I see dogs and chickens and pigs and cats. There are some vegetable patches, small stores and even a barber.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I take my time and I get a bit lost. I cross a couple of bridges and go off on different forks of the canals. It all connects and there’s plenty to see.

Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam
Can Tho Mekong tour, Vietnam

I know I wouldn’t have seen all of this from a boat. Even the things that would have been visible would have felt detached.

I am in the middle of Mekong life here, as I smile at the residents and they shout hello as I stroll past. It may be all about the water here but that doesn’t mean you need to be on it.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN CAN THO

There are a few decent options for accommodation at the riverfront near the boat tours. More interesting places are further out.

BACKPACKER

For a good backpacker option, I would recommend staying at the friendly Nguyen Shack.

BUDGET

For a nice affordable hotel near the river, have a look at MIDMOST Boutique Hostel.

BOUTIQUE

For something a bit nicer, the Nam Bo Boutique Hotel is still reasonably priced.

LUXURY

And there’s a very special experience on the island in the river at Azerai Can Tho.

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT VIETNAM?

See my Vietnam Travel Guide

To help you plan your trip to Vietnam:

  • A detailed itinerary for the perfect two week trip in Vietnam
  • All the best things to see in Hanoi
  • A stunning alternative to visiting Ha Long Bay
  • What to look out for when booking a Ha Long Bay tour
  • Discover the story behind Hoi An’s heritage
  • Why this is the best day trip you can do from Hoi An
  • The incredible imperial palace that’s worth a visit
  • Did you know Vietnam has the world’s biggest cave?
  • An easy way to see the Mekong from Saigon
  • All of Vietnam’s World Heritage Sites and my tips for visiting

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour through Vietnam, rather than organising everything on your own. It will be much easier and it’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours in Vietnam.

You could consider:

  • The Best of Vietnam (15 days)
  • Classic Vietnam (10 days)
  • Hike, Bike and Kayak through Vietnam (10 days)
  • Cycle Vietnam’s backroads (14 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Mary @ Green Global Travel |

    February 18, 2016 at 2:08 am

    Reply

    The walking path alongside the canal seems like a great way to absorb life both on and off the water. This is such a beautiful and unique place! Thanks for sharing.

    • Michael Turtle |

      March 3, 2016 at 7:23 am

      Reply

      Thanks, Mary. I’m really glad I made the decision to walk along the canals. I could take my time and see things from a different perspective. It was really pretty too.

  2. Jade Johnston |

    May 17, 2016 at 11:31 am

    Reply

    I did the typical tourist tour when I was in Can Tho. It was good though. It was just a tiny boat which only fit the two of us, and we were out exploring all day. Our trip was offered by a relative of the person who owned the guest house, so we didn’t have to deal with trying to find a decent tour from the touts.

  3. Mike Tagg |

    October 17, 2016 at 12:47 pm

    Reply

    Thank you Michael for your very informative article. I will visit the Delta in Feb next year. I am a very keen street photographer and this is how I will spend time interacting with such people. I also plan to visit Chau Doc and Ben Tre hoping that I am visiting other good villages. Best wishes. Mike

  4. nat |

    November 11, 2017 at 12:20 pm

    Reply

    What a great website! Thanks for taking the time and sharing your travel knowledge of Vietnam. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your stories – and had the odd chuckle. I will be going to Vietnam in Mid March for just two weeks. Very much looking forward to it. Haven’t been backpacking in a good decade!

  5. Elizabeth |

    January 26, 2018 at 8:40 pm

    Reply

    Is the Ruby hotel en Nguyen Shack.
    I can not find it.
    I would like to stay in Nguyen Shack.

  6. Elizabeth |

    January 26, 2018 at 9:12 pm

    Reply

    Sorry, I did not read well.
    Thank you for your information.
    Elizabeth (from Venezuela)

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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