• Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Time Travel Turtle

A travel blog with stories beyond the brochure

  • HOME
  • ABOUT ME
  • CONTACT ME
  • BY COUNTRY
    • WEST EUROPE
      • Belgium
      • England
      • France
      • Germany
      • Ireland
      • Liechtenstein
      • Luxembourg
      • Netherlands
      • Northern Ireland
      • Scotland
      • Switzerland
      • Wales
    • NORTH EUROPE
      • Estonia
      • Finland
      • Latvia
      • Lithuania
      • Norway
      • Sweden
    • SOUTH EUROPE
      • Cyprus
      • Gibraltar
      • Greece
      • Holy See
      • Italy
      • Malta
      • Portugal
      • San Marino
      • Spain
    • EAST EUROPE
      • Austria
      • Belarus
      • Croatia
      • Czech Republic
      • Hungary
      • Montenegro
      • Poland
      • Serbia
    • NORTH ASIA
      • China
      • Japan
      • Kazakhstan
      • Kyrgyzstan
      • Mongolia
      • North Korea
      • Tajikistan
      • Uzbekistan
    • SOUTH ASIA
      • Cambodia
      • India
      • Indonesia
      • Myanmar
      • Malaysia
      • Nepal
      • Philippines
      • Singapore
      • Sri Lanka
      • Thailand
      • Vietnam
    • NORTH AMERICA
      • Antigua & Barbuda
      • Belize
      • Canada
      • Costa Rica
      • Guatemala
      • Mexico
      • USA
    • SOUTH AMERICA
      • Argentina
      • Brazil
      • Chile
      • Paraguay
      • Peru
      • Uruguay
    • AFRICA
      • Egypt
      • Morocco
      • Namibia
      • South Africa
    • OCEANIA
      • Australia
      • New Zealand
    • MIDDLE EAST
      • Jordan
      • Turkey
  • MOST POPULAR
    • The world’s oldest backpacker
    • Orangutans in Borneo
    • The need for speed
    • Trying to get out of the slum
    • The lake swamped with tourism
    • Journey into Dreamland
    • The village where life begins again
    • Is Cambodia safe for travellers?
    • Making the perfect gin and tonic
  • UNESCO

Restoring the faith

April 18, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 16 Comments

WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Monastery at Daphni, Athens

Piece by piece, tiny tile by tiny tile, the monastery at Daphni is being restored. It’s taken years and it’s bound to take years more – perhaps even longer than it took to build in the first place.

Such is the art of making something old look old again. And it’s not the first time it’s had to be done.

About ten kilometres from the centre of Athens, this Byzantine-style monastery was first built in its current form almost a thousand years ago. It had risen from the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo Daphneios.

Daphni monastery, Athens, Greece

Over the millennium between then and now, both men and nature have taken turns trying to destroy it.

In the 1200s, Frankish crusaders sacked it – but a religious order faithful to the then Duke of Athens began to restore it two years later. In 1821 it was deconsecrated and used as a barracks and then an asylum but about 60 years later, in 1888, another round of restoration began.

Then, in 1889 and again in 1897, there were earthquakes which required the Greek Archaeological Society to come in and help with some of the damage.

Daphni monastery, Athens, Greece

You’d think that would’ve been more than enough for one monastery to handle – but just when things were looking good, another earthquake struck in 1999. The building was badly damaged and recovery work has been going on ever since.

It is possible to visit the Daphni monastery these days, though. The only things to be aware of are the limited opening hours and limited accessibility. It’s a bit like walking into a construction site, enclosed within a hurricane fence and with safety warning signs hanging everywhere.

Daphni monastery, Athens, Greece

Inside the monastery itself you can see the painstaking work that’s taking place to restore the mosaics on the walls. This is the most time-consuming part of the restoration – but also the most important. These beautiful designs are one of the main reasons this site is so special.

Unfortunately photography isn’t allowed inside but the restoration work has one advantage: the interior is filled with a huge scaffolding structure which you can climb up to get a close view at the mosaics on the higher levels that would normally be out of sight.

Daphni monastery, Athens, Greece

The whole church is designed as if it is the universe. In the dome at the top, representing heaven, are mosaics of Christ and his prophets. Slightly further down are scenes from the life of Jesus and towards the lower part of the walls are images of saints and martyrs.

Every single image was delicately made hundreds of years ago of minute little pieces… thousands and thousands of them. To restore them faithfully takes time and care to make sure everything looks as authentic as possible.

Daphni monastery, Athens, Greece

Byzantine monasteries in Greece

Who knows when the monastery at Daphni will be completely restored and reopened to the public? At this rate, it could take many more years.

Although this is the most convenient to visit, there are two other churches in Greece which show the same kind of marble art and Byzantine mosaic art which have also been included on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

They are the monastery of Hossios Luckas, about 40 kilometres from Delphi, and the monastery of Nea Moni on the island of Chios. If this is your kind of thing, they could be worth the excursions.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN ATHENS

There’s a good range of accommodation in Athens and I would recommend finding something near Syntagma Square for convenience.

BACKPACKER

For a backpacker option, I would recommend the modern and comfortable Bedbox Hostel.

BUDGET

If you’re looking for value, I would suggest the Athens Mirabello, which also has a great location.

BOUTIQUE

There are some cool design hotels in the city and one of the nicest is The Artist Athens.

LUXURY

And for 5-star luxury, I would suggest the modern Electra Metropolis with a great view of the Acropolis.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more info click here. You can see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I’ve visited here.
Greece Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT Greece?

See my Greece Travel Guide

To help you plan your Greece travel:

  • As 3 day itinerary for historic Athens
  • Hoe to get a free local tour of Athens
  • The wonder of the Acropolis in Athens
  • How to see the origin of the Olympics
  • An ancient civilisation as a day trip from Athens
  • Is this where modern medicine all began?
  • The Greek island where Jackie Onassis escaped to

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour of Greece, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Greece.

You could consider:

  • Sailing Greece – Mykonos to Santorini (8 days)
  • Best of Greece (15 days)
  • Sailing Greece – Athens to Santorini (15 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. D.J. - The World of Deej |

    September 2, 2012 at 9:29 am

    Reply

    Great story…have to admire their dedication to keep working on it…

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 2, 2012 at 9:58 pm

      Reply

      Well, ‘dedication’ might be too generous a word. They certainly didn’t seem to be working that hard… or maybe that’s just the Greek way 🙂

      • Dimitra tsekoura |

        June 2, 2014 at 8:49 am

        Reply

        I would like to understand what you mean by saying “working the Greek way”

  2. Italian Notes |

    September 2, 2012 at 6:10 pm

    Reply

    What a puzzle – I’m not sure I’d have the patience.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 2, 2012 at 9:59 pm

      Reply

      I wonder what the turnover of staff is like. Once you had started, would you want to finish or would you lose patience and quit?

  3. Laurence |

    September 3, 2012 at 1:32 am

    Reply

    I think I would have given up by this point. I’m not sure this monastery is ever destined to be…

  4. Elmer Cruz |

    September 3, 2012 at 9:16 pm

    Reply

    I’m always fascinated with architecture and this structure would definitely be worth restoring to its original state.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 4, 2012 at 6:39 am

      Reply

      True… I’m just not sure I’d want to be the person doing it! 🙂

  5. Cathy Sweeney |

    September 4, 2012 at 5:14 am

    Reply

    Very interesting story. So much time and effort going into the restoration & then another earthquake hits. Hope I get to see Daphni completed someday.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 4, 2012 at 6:41 am

      Reply

      I know – how annoyed would you be if you were just about the finish restoration and an earthquake hit. It would be like knocking over the dominoes when you’ve only got a couple left to place!

  6. Mary @ Green Global Travel |

    November 7, 2012 at 4:41 am

    Reply

    Interesting history behind the monastery. I’m glad that the Greeks decided that is it worth saving.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 7, 2012 at 11:16 am

      Reply

      I think when something has been around that long, there’s not much choice but to save it!

  7. Jennifer |

    October 19, 2014 at 10:51 am

    Reply

    Amazing the work that they are putting into it’s restoration! Great story.

  8. Pique Dan |

    May 6, 2015 at 5:29 am

    Reply

    Nice photographs Michael. Its wonderful to see a world that was.They are doing a wonderful job.

    • Michael Turtle |

      May 17, 2015 at 5:24 pm

      Reply

      Yes, it’s great to see the effort going into restoring the site, isn’t it? It’s important we conserve our history!

Primary Sidebar

This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

Want Occasional Updates?

Sign up to be the first to hear the latest about the adventures of Time Travel Turtle. You'll also get access to special offers and exclusive news.
Thank you! You have successfully subscribed to our newsletter.

Search

  • PRIVACY POLICY