Every time I go to Tokyo – and I’ve been there about twenty times – I discover new places and experiences. No trip is ever the same.
It’s probably no surprise that this frenetic metropolis has more things to do than you can fit into a single trip. I’ve written previously about a three-day Tokyo itinerary that will show you many of the highlights… but you’ll still be only scratching the surface.
Look a little deeper and you’ll find not just lots more things to do, but a really rich variety of what’s on offer.
And what I think is really interesting is how many of these Tokyo experiences are so peaceful or so particular. Japan’s capital may be an enormous city but it consists of so many little specific things.
On a recent trip to Japan, I had about a day in Tokyo before continuing on to explore some of the best things to do in Nara Prefecture.
To get me in the mood and to show me a few other engaging activities, the kind people from Tokyo and Nara put together a fun little itinerary while I was in the city this time.
Kayaking tour
So often, when we think of Tokyo, we think of the skyscrapers and neon lights of areas like Shinjuku or Ginza. But the city also has so much wonderful green space.
To get amongst some of the Tokyo’s nature, I joined Outdoor Sports Club ZAC to kayak along the rivers to the east of the city centre.
Once used as important canals for transportation and trade during the Edo period, these rivers are now lined with peaceful parks and trees that bloom in the spring. As I paddle along, I see some old men sitting in the sun for a leisurely morning of fishing.
My kayaking guide, Fukazawa, tells me about some of the interesting local sights as we slowly cruise down the river – old factories and apartment blocks, for instance. And he also points out the birds that call this home.
In the distance, the iconic Tokyo Skytree tower looms on the horizon to remind you what city you’re in, but the serene atmosphere is not what you might expect for Tokyo.
Braided cord experience
I’ll tell you what else is very calming – doing some traditional Japanese braiding… as I found out later in the day when I joined a class to learn more about it.
This type of braiding is called ‘kumihimo’ and it has a very long history in the country, beginning here more than a thousand years ago. Generally the braiding is in the shape of a cord and it was originally used on things like samurai armour or scabbards. Now it’s used for things like ties and belts.
So, in the stylish neighbourhood of Kagurazaka, I head to the store of Domyo, a kumihimo company that was founded in 1652 and is the oldest of its kind in Japan (it often gets asked by museums to make replicas of historic pieces of braiding).
To make my piece of cord, I sit over a wooden stand with 12 silk threads hanging down and follow the patient teacher’s instructions, putting them over each other, back and forth.
It becomes quite meditative once I get the hang of things and miraculously there are no mistakes, so I end up with a long enough cord of kumihimo to make a keyring.
It’s a fun experience and also a great way to learn about this fascinating Japanese craft.
Nara Mahoroba-kan
To prepare for my time in Nara Prefecture, I head to a shop called Nara Mahoroba-kan, which has a huge collection of local products and specialties from the region.
There are lots of craft items – things like pottery, wooden carvings, and even soaps. There are also notebooks and calligraphy sets… and lots more.
And then there’s lots of food. Much of it is packaged in a way that will last a while, such as the dry somen noodles, sauces, and sweets. But then there’s a cafe serving fresh food, including the famous ice shaving treat from Nara called kakigori.
There’s even a sake tasting where you pay for the time period and then can taste as many types of sake as you want (which is a lot – there are about 20 there when I visit!).
There isn’t too much information in English within the shop, so you may want to visit with a guide or pop in after you’ve been to Nara so you will recognise some of the products here.
EAT: TOKi
A real highlight of Nara Mahoroba-kan is the restaurant on its upper floor, called TOKi, which has one Michelin star.
The restaurant takes the ingredients and traditions of ancient Nara but then gives it a modern Spanish twist, creating unique dishes that each have a story. Even the menu on the table is like an old folding book, each page a course of the degustation infused with poetry.
For my meal, for example, one course takes the idea of typical Spanish ham but creates it with duck, a jelly of sherry to signify aging, and a smoky-flavoured foam to represent the process of curing it.
Or there’s the Nara beef that is served with a Spanish-style risotto with zucchini and a mint sauce.
There are about ten courses – some vegetarian, some noodle-based, some dessert – and overall it’s an incredible meal with so many stories and interesting techniques involved.
EAT: Awo Niyoshi
For another excellent meal – and another chance to get a taste of Nara – I would also recommend a restaurant called Awo Niyoshi.
Set in an 80-year-old house in Nihonbashi, close to Tokyo Station, this charming restaurant is run by people from Nara and the dishes all relate to the cuisine from that region (even the chopsticks are made from Nara cedar).
The menu changes a bit because the food is seasonal – I have a delicious eggplant dish that I’m told won’t be available the following week, for example. But the main courses generally stay the same.
And one of the most popular main courses is duck, which is an important product for Nara because it doesn’t have any coastline so doesn’t use nearly as much fish as other prefectures. (Some sashimi is served, but that’s so you can try the soy sauce, which is from Nara).
With a casual environment but excellent food, Awo Niyoshi is a great restaurant to taste some Nara cuisine – or just for a great meal close to the city’s main train station.
STAY: The Royal Park Hotel Iconic Tokyo Shiodome
This time in Tokyo, I stay at The Royal Park Hotel Iconic Tokyo Shiodome, a large four-star luxury hotel just on the southern edge of Ginza. The hotel is a short walk from Shimbashi station, making it a convenient location for Haneda Airport flights because there’s a direct train.
There’s a range of room sizes and, even though the smaller ones still have quite a lot of space, it’s the larger suites that are really impressive. They’re designed partly for people staying for a longer period, with separate sleeping and living areas making it feel more like an apartment.
The hotel is at the top of a skyscraper, so you get great views of the local area and out to landmarks like Tokyo Tower and Hama-rikyu Gardens. That’s why the hotel’s restaurant, Harmony, has most of the tables up against the windows.
Harmony serves breakfast and lunch with a combination of buffet and main dishes, and dinner. Because I’m staying in one of the ‘Executive’ rooms on the 38th floor, I also get access to the Executive Lounge, which also offers breakfast, as well as snacks during the day and cocktails in the evening.
Time Travel Turtle was supported by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government and Nara Prefecture, but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.
