Inside, the Santa Chiara Church in Naples is beautiful in its grand simplicity – a vast serenity with elegant stained-glass windows and an earthen-coloured tiled floor.
Outside, its walls and doors are covered in graffiti. Not the hip street art that can give a neighbourhood a contemporary atmosphere. I’m talking about the overt vandalism of sprayed names and rude messages.
And here, in this one spot in the centre of the historic centre of Naples, the entire city has been captured.
Begrimed and neglected on the outside; resplendent and colourful when you go a bit deeper.
Is Naples dangerous?
For as long as I can remember, Naples has not had the best reputation for tourists. There are its associations with the mafia, people always talk about the city’s trash problem, and it’s certainly supposed to be inefficient compared to the major cities in the north of Italy.
I arrived expecting to find that these stereotypes were just tales that get perpetuated by people who have never been – only heard about it secondhand.
I had assumed that some of the other negatives stories about Naples were no longer relevant – that they described how the city used to be, not how I would find it now.
I was wrong.
There is no denying it – Naples is dirty and Naples is dangerous. Everywhere you go, bins overflow with trash and streets have rubbish just piled up against the wall or in the middle of the square.
Walls are covered with scrawled graffiti, gardens are full of weeds, historic buildings are falling apart.
And the crime level is relatively high, with tourists particularly targeted. Pickpocketing, bag-snatching, muggings. This is a reality in Naples – I can promise you – and certainly more than anywhere else I’ve been previously in Italy.
But, you know what? Despite all of this, I have come to love Naples.
The real Naples
For every criminal targeting tourists, there are thousands of warm and generous local residents who you’ll meet as you explore Naples.
For every pile of trash, there’s an impressive piece of architecture behind it.
For every wall of graffiti, there is an opulently-decorated church on the inside.
But you’ll certainly appreciate this sooner if you get a bit of insider knowledge, which is why this local guided tour is a great place to start!
In fact, it’s the chaos and the grit that I think endeared Naples to me right from the start. While cities like Florence or Siena in the north are certainly beautiful, they also come across as a little artificial and a little too clean – as though they have been created just for the hordes of tour groups who visit each day.
With Naples, there is no doubting the authenticity of what you are seeing. This is a city with texture – the good and the bad.
What’s somewhat hard to reconcile is that there are some absolutely gorgeous urban vistas in the city: around Piazza del Plebiscito, for example, or up at Castel Sant’Elmo. But then there just seems to be such a disregard from local authorities and residents to keep their city beautiful.
One of the things I think must be going on is a love of the luxury of life, more than ornamental considerations. (When you see how people drive here and how close pedestrians seem to come to death all the time, perhaps it makes sense that you would want to live in the moment.)
Often it comes in the form of food – and I definitely recommend this food tour of Naples, where you’ll get all the local tips!
One night, at almost 11 o’clock, the entire neighbourhood where I’m staying erupts in noise with shouting and banging. People are hanging off their balconies screaming, cardboard boxes are being kicked in the street, bottles are being smashed.
The local football team has apparently scored a goal just in time to win an important game.
It’s not the fanaticism that surprises me – that happens everywhere. It’s the noise and the mess that it creates… and that everyone is getting involved! The entire neighbourhood, as a community, has been caught up in emotion with no consideration for the chaos that’s caused.
But I get caught up in it too, the longer I spend here in Naples.
I like that I have to push my way to the bar to get a coffee just like all the locals do.
I like that there’ll be a bit of performance about ordering a pizza but when it comes it will be one of the best I’ve ever eaten.
I like that simply crossing a threshold can take you from hot bright hectic streets and into quiet historic buildings with centuries of amazing art.
I like that every cafe serves an Aperol spritz.
So, did I like Naples?
Even the best relationships have some bad times, don’t they? Moments of conflict that just need some forgiveness. Annoying character traits that just need some acceptance.
That’s the way I see Naples. I am glad I have this city in my life now and that we’ve had this time together. It’s not perfect – but at least it’s real.
I would recommend getting a guide to show you the historic centre of Naples, which will help you quickly get a sense of the city.
If you’re in a group, then the best option might be this private tour of Naples. Otherwise, there are some other great choices here:
I also think it’s worth choosing a good central location for your accommodation so you can explore a bit and then have a rest when you want. The city is quite relentless, in some ways.
I have some tips for good places to stay here:
THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN NAPLES
I’ve got lots of tips about where to stay in Naples in another article or have a look at some of the highlights below.
BACKPACKER
The bunk beds are fairly standard, but Tric Trac Hostel has a fun modern feel and a great breakfast.
APARTMENT
A large apartment with a cool design, Casa Calu makes a great base if you’re staying a while
BOUTIQUE
Like an oasis in the middle of the city, Costantinopoli 104 is set within a gorgeous 19th-century villa with a pool.
LUXURY
It doesn’t get much more luxurious than the Britannique Hotel, with fabulous suites and panoramic views.
Interesting how Naples is crime-ridden Michael. Had no idea! I am not as huge on the Europe circuit – SE Asian centric guy here – so it is news. But well worth the visit I see. Thanks for the rocking share.
Ryan
I love Naples!! I loved everything about it, the vibe, the people, the food, the screaming deals on shopping, the architecture. You captured also really fantastic pictures in your trip. Thank you so much for sharing this post..
“It’s not perfect – but at least it’s real.” So true 🙂 How many days did you stay in Napoli, Michael?
It was two weeks in Naples. Probably a good length of time – long enough to get a sense of the city and do lots of trips to the surrounding areas. But when it all gets a bit too much, you’re ready to leave! 🙂
Looks like an interesting place to visit that I have never heard of. I want to travel to one place every year and I have a shortlist for 2018. Reading your article about Naples seems enough but let me check out more about it, Thanks!
I’ve visited Naples in September 2017 and although dirty and run down in some places, I’ve found that they are making an effort in restoring some parts. The graffiti was also a shock at first, but I have grown to appreciate it after a while. As for the city being dangerous, I have to disagree. I did not feel threatened at all during my stay, but obviously you have to apply normal common sense as you would in any large city. I shared some of my experiences on my blog, so take a look.
I had a great time there, i would definitely go there again, people were great, food, music, everything, it really made a great impact on me.
I think people need to learn to give the rougher cities a chance. There is an area in Brooklyn called Bay Ridge that is dirty and a little sketchy, but it is my favorite thing about New York City. People just need to practice safe travel tips .
Where in Bay Ridge were you?? I am a NYC native, living in Brooklyn these last 25 years and would never describe Bay Ridge as either dirty or sketchy. Where else did you travel while in NYC that you formed a bad opinion about one of the quietest residential neighborhoods in Brooklyn?
Bay Ridge is one of the least sketchy places in the borough. It’s residential and very far away so the only people there are the ones who live in it…
How strange that they can put up with rubbish on the streets. Such a fixable problem.
First travel blog post I actually comment on, but I really liked it. Authentic and honest perspective and well written. Thanks!
Sure, Naples has lots of hidden gems. But it’s the dog poo everywhere on the streets and the hundreds of cigarette butts everywhere that I couldn’t handle.
I have travelled through 3rd world countries in Asia and Africa and I was actually quite shocked to find these conditions in Naples. And it’s not only poo of the doggie kind I had to step around on the streets.
I stayed in the Santa Lucia area, just a couple of blocks from the waterfront, which was a lovely haven after the dirty smelly streets, piles of rubbish, broken bottles, plastic bags and general trash, not always in piles near the bins either, but strewn along the footpaths and roads.
I witnessed a street sweeping machine along a road one morning while waiting for a bus into Centrale … hilarious really. The road was then relatively clean …. while the broken footpaths and grass verges remained covered in trash.
I am 70, I travel alone and take all the necessary precautions when travelling. I don’t walk the streets at night, but during the day I didn’t feel any less safe than in other Italian cities. Sure, there are any number of pretty suspect guys lurking around, but it pays to not advertise too obviously that one is a tourist, walk swiftly, keep focused, stay alert and enjoy what the city and its residents have to offer.
I fly to Sicily tomorrow for 9 days. Then back to Australia in October after 7 weeks in Italy so I figure I have soaked up a fair bit of the culture.
Lana
Brisbane.
I have been to Napoli several times, I must confess my husband was born there, Vamero, on the hill. It is fantastic, Christmas time is unbelievable, especially down by the docks the night before Christmas Eve, every kind of fish you can imagine, spac a Napoli the street that decides the city, my husband got my nativity set here, magical, go if you have the chance!
We stayed at Dolmus Toledo…. lovely apartment in the heart of the Spanish Quarter! Perfect for a long weekend.
Naples is kind of a piece of dog shit. I was almost run over an hour ago. Drunk assholes on the road who could not care less about the safety of pedestrians. A very toxic culture of people who can’t see beyond themselves. Too bad because it would be a beautiful city otherwise. Also, NYC kicks the fucking shit out of this pizza hands down. I’m a fan of both but Naples pizza is just simply not as good and I’ve been to both multiple times.
I am a great lover of Italy, i used to be a tour guide there and i spent so much time in Italy that it feels like i lived there, i also speak the language and have a good understanding of people and love Italian south, Yes Naples is relatively dirty even though it getting much better in the recent years especially in the city center. You still can see horrible piles of dirt on the outskirts however. But please understand, Naples is not more dangerous than any other major city. I feel much safer in Naples then in Paris for example. Petty crime is prominent and things will get stolen but violent crime is not an issue and does not target tourist. People are amazing in Naples and food is out of this world.
Stay in the city center and be vigilant but you really don’t need to be afraid.
We just came back from a month in Italy and to be honest I won’t be going back. It’s beyond dirty, especially Naples and Rome. Dog poo everywhere all over the place, trash and the smell of pee. It was just gross!
Hi, I visited Naples in 2018 on the way back from Bari. It was frenetic & grubby, I was surprised to see military and tanks in the street! However, I really liked it. The huge piazza at the Palace was beautiful and on that day there were young people who had just graduated, with laurel wreaths! lovely wee cafes on way down to the sea, with Mount Vesuvius in background! Funnily enough going to see a film in Glasgow tomorrow based in Naples, looking forward to it! Would return again!
I only stayed in Naples for three days in mid March 2023, but apart from the paint tagging of many impressive buildings, garbage and dogsh*t squashed into the paving stones (if you were lucky); every corner, lampstand and doorway seemed to be coated in layers of dog or human pee. If you want to visit Naples, do trips to Pompei, Herculaneum, the City Museum and restaurants on the hills, and then go somewhere clean like Rome.
Napoli is dirtier, not more dangerous, than other cities in Italy. Rome, Florence and Milan are less safe than Napoli, with Rome being as dirty as Naples. Please stop perpetuating this false stereotype of Napoli being more dangerous.
I am not saying so, this are the official crime stats of Italian cities:
https://lab24.ilsole24ore.com/indice-della-criminalita/
Saluti 🙂
While I can’t comment on the crime – as We have not experienced any while we have been here, I can say that unfortunately Naples is filthy and quite honestly, the majority of people we have come across have been either unfriendly, dismissive or outright rude. People seem to be miserable and throughly depressed. Many of them obviously dislike tourists or anyone who does not speak fluent Italian. It’s such a shame, as we loved Sorrento and Capri ( we stayed in non- tourist areas)…. But … Naples we won’t be coming back or recommending staying here to any of our friends or family ( not that I think many Nepalese would care at all if tourists visited their city or not!). Good luck to them !
I found this article — and the comments — very helpful. I’m looking for something informative as I’m an American considering a move to Naples and am trying to get some ground truth. Thanks!
Naples is just fun. I always laugh when I’m in the city. Whether it’s playing chicken trying to cross the road or the sight of a man walking through the street with a cat on his head. I’m currently spending New Year’s Eve in the city and the fireworks have been going all day with great explosions as they are detonated in the enclosed piazzas. It’s a crazy city but people are generally friendly and helpful.
I’m in Naples now and I saw the guy with the cat on his head walking through the Historic District. I happened to be filming something else and ended up catching it on video. It makes me smile and laugh every time I think of it. Naples is insane though. I don’t think there is a word that exists that could encapsulate the energy and vibe of this city. Chaos is the only thing I can think of it but that is just one little piece of it. Friendly people, amazing food, mind-blowing history, and yes, graffiti everywhere. Never seen anything like it really.
I was in Naples the same evening as you Alexis. Was near Toledo station, just next to the Spanish Quarter. Yes, Naples was insane ! It had a vibe and raw energy that I wanted to experience more of. Been to Italy a few times and always wished to go to Naples. A number of Friends and family questioned why I wanted to go there which fueled my determination even more. Naples is not a city for everyone because of its uniqueness. Liking or disliking it depends on a combination of many factors like your own personality type, expectations, stage of life etc. and we all know we are as diverse as we are many. The difference of opinion therefore is not surprising. When you arrive in Naples it reveals itself to you pretty damn quick. You either head for the exit door, endure it or fall in love.
I don’t agree with you … that’s it’s dangerous .. that’s your experience – or no more dangerous than any other city would be !
I live in Naples from 1964 to 1966 as a young sailor stationed at the Naval Air Facility in Capodichino. I fell in love with Naples from the very day I arrived. The city seemed overwhelming at first, but soon I discovered the energy, history, art, and personality of the people. It was the people who really won me over, if you took the time to know them, they become your friend. Every visit to town was an adventure for me. From Naples, I discovered Capri and spent just about every summer weekend on the island. When I wasn’t in Capri, I would go to either Rome, Sorrento, or Ischia. I’ve been back once on vacation in 1998, and now that i’ve turned 80, I’m planning on one last trip back to Naples.
I’ve been in Naples most of this week for a conference and extended my visit a couple of days to see some of the city. I really wish I hadn’t and I’m counting the hours until departure! Loud, filthy, unfriendly (with some notable exceptions). Not a night life person but everywhere at least seemed safe during the day, although annoying street scammers work the more touristy areas 24/7. The national archeological museum was a redeeming feature. Arrivederci Napoli, non tornerò!
“It’s not perfect – but at least it’s real.”
A good tourist slogan, yes, but meaningless, Michael.
Stupid tourist! Nevet travel again!!!
Surely the city has a problem with waste and is chaotic, the fact that it’s so dangerous is simply not true tho. There are official national statistics proving that Milan, Rome and Florence are on the podium. Anyway, I enjoyed the reading, thank you for sharing 🙂
I loved this deep dive into Naples! Your insights into the culture, food, and hidden gems really captured the essence of the city. It’s refreshing to see beyond the typical tourist spots and appreciate the local life. Can’t wait to explore it for myself!
This was such an insightful post! I’ve always heard about Naples’ rich history and vibrant culture, but I loved how you delved deeper into the everyday life and hidden gems of the city. Your recommendations for local eateries and off-the-beaten-path attractions are just what I need for my upcoming trip. Can’t wait to explore beyond the surface!
This post beautifully captures the essence of Naples beyond the typical tourist attractions. I loved how you highlighted the local culture and the vibrant street life. It’s refreshing to see an emphasis on the hidden gems that truly showcase the spirit of the city. Can’t wait to explore these lesser-known spots on my next visit!
This post beautifully captures the essence of Naples beyond its tourist facade. I appreciated the insights into the local culture and hidden gems that often go unnoticed. Your descriptions made me want to explore the city’s lesser-known neighborhoods and savor the authentic cuisine! Can’t wait to visit and experience it for myself.
This post really gave me a fresh perspective on Naples! I love how you’ve highlighted both the beauty and the challenges of the city. It’s so important to look beyond the tourist spots to truly understand a place. Can’t wait to explore more of its hidden gems on my next visit!
This post beautifully captures the essence of Naples beyond the typical tourist attractions. I loved the insights into the local culture, the hidden gems, and the authentic experiences that truly make the city special. Can’t wait to explore these recommendations on my next visit!
I absolutely loved this deep dive into Naples! Your insights really captured the vibrant culture and hidden gems of the city. It’s refreshing to see beyond the usual tourist spots and appreciate the local life. Can’t wait to explore more of Naples after reading your recommendations!
This post really opened my eyes to the hidden gems of Naples! I love how you highlighted the local culture and the lesser-known neighborhoods. It’s inspiring me to plan a trip and experience more than just the tourist spots. Thank you for sharing such insightful perspectives!
What an insightful post! I love how you captured the essence of Naples beyond its tourist attractions. Your descriptions of the local culture, food, and hidden gems really paint a vivid picture. I can’t wait to explore the neighborhoods you mentioned and experience the city’s rich history firsthand. Thank you for sharing!
What a fantastic read! I love how you delved beyond the usual tourist spots and captured the true essence of Naples. Your insights into the local culture and hidden gems really inspire me to explore the city more deeply. Can’t wait to visit and experience it for myself!
I really enjoyed this deep dive into Naples! It’s fascinating to see how much there is beyond the usual tourist spots. Your insights on the local culture and hidden gems make me want to explore the city in a whole new way. Thanks for sharing your perspective!
Just back from Naples and I loved it!
It’s definitely not for everyone but if you just accept that this is a city that lives by its own rules then you can relax and enjoy it. Yes it’s crazy, busy, chaotic and loud, but that is part of the charm. Graffiti everywhere but that gritty nature can be endearing. The food, the culture, the people and the history make it a city like no other in Italy. So much history too but sometimes you have to dig a little deeper to find the best spots. And a great centre to visit Pompeii, Vesuvius, Capri and the Amalfi coast.
Give Naples a chance and it will leave you with amazing memories.
What an insightful post! I love how you highlighted the hidden gems of Naples that often get overlooked. The blend of history, culture, and everyday life is so captivating. Can’t wait to explore more beyond the tourist spots!
What a captivating exploration of Naples! Your insights really paint a vivid picture of the city’s rich culture and vibrant daily life. I loved how you highlighted the lesser-known gems that make Naples unique, beyond the usual tourist spots. Can’t wait to experience these hidden treasures on my next visit!