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Sandwiched between Parma ham and cheese

May 14, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 30 Comments

FOOD AND DRINK

Parma hams and culatello

They’re hanging from the ceiling, bat-like, smelly and dusty. In the darkened basement you feel like they could suddenly come alive, turn on you in a swarm and leave you with no defences.

They look menacing – partly because of the dimly-lit and enclosed environment, partly because of their resemblance to cocoons of dangerous and exotic predators, and partly because of the unknown. What are they?

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

Well, they’re parma hams. In this cellar underneath an old castle in the Italian region of Emilia Romagna, more than five thousand pieces of pig are being turned into one of the local delicacies – the ‘culatello’ variety of prosciutto.

It’s one of the finest pork products you will ever eat! There’s a reason some of the world’s rich and famous order their own supplies from here – see if you can spot a celebrity name in this batch.

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

What is culatello?

The professionals here at Antica Corte Pallavicina take their work seriously. It is a fine art to create meat like this and they’ve been using the same technique for generations.

First, the softest part of the upper thigh is cut off to be used. It’s massaged with wine and garlic and then with salt and pepper. It’s left to rest for five days before being put into a pig bladder. It’s tied up and then hung in this cellar.

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

There’s a reason all the hanging hams are dusty and mouldy. They’ll stay suspended from the ceiling for at least twelve months… and sometimes for as long as forty months!

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

Once they are ready, the bundles will be taken down, the bladder will be removed and the meat will be left wrapped in a cool cloth for two days. When the cloth is removed, the meat must be sliced within one hour.

To eat true culatello you must be here in the Emilia Romagna region because transporting it will ruin the delicate taste.

So much effort and care goes into ensuring the meat is of the highest quality. It starts well before the pig is even slaughtered.

At Antica Corte Pallavicina, they grow their own maize, barley and bran to feed to the animals. I would’ve said the pigs eat better than the humans… but that was before I had my chance to taste the culatello.

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

Parmigiano cheese

We eat it with cheese – the parmigiano-reggiano – which this region is also famous for. And drink it with a chilled lambrusco made locally.

We’re finally out of the cellar, in the castle’s courtyard, watching the sun go down over the river nearby while peacocks meander through the grounds. The balance of the flavours is perfect. There’s a harmony with our setting too.

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

So much time has gone into preparing this meal – months and months. So much care has been taken with every step along the way. It’s a pleasure to take the time and care to savour the moment.

parma ham, what is culatello, parmigiano cheese, parma

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of the Emilia Romagna tourism board but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

Emilia-Romagna Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT EMILIA-ROMAGNA?

To help you plan your trip to Emilia-Romagna:

  • It may not be Italy’s most famous city but here’s why you should visit Bologna
  • The mosaics in Ravenna are some of the most stunning you’ll ever see
  • Find out why Modena Cathedral is a World Heritage Site
  • The best things to see in the historic city of Ferrara
  • Rimini is known for its beaches, but don’t miss this colourful neighbourhood
  • Learn some Italian cooking at the home of the country’s first cookbook’s author
  • You haven’t truly tasted balsamic vinegar until you’ve tried it in Modena
  • With famous local ham and cheese, Parma has to be one of Italy’s best food cities
  • Learn more about the Ferrari car company at these excellent museums
  • The experience of a lifetime – driving a Lamborghini on Imola racetrack!

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a tour in Italy, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours of Italy.

You could consider:

  • Highlights of Italy (8 days)
  • Ultimate Italy (14 days)
  • Local Living Tuscany (7 days)
  • Iconic Italy – National Geographic (14 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you should use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Caz Makepeace |

    June 18, 2012 at 10:28 am

    Reply

    It’s fascinating to me how many hours and months is put into making food taste great when we only taste it for mere seconds.

    I would have loved to have tried this pre-vegetarianism days so for now I’ll gladly settle for the cheese and wine

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:05 am

      Reply

      Normally I understand people who choose to be vegetarian… surely there are times like this when you question that decision, though? 🙂

  2. Jess | Globetrottergirls |

    June 18, 2012 at 11:13 am

    Reply

    I’m with Caz 🙂 I’ll gladly settle for the cheese and wine, too, although even though we don’t eat meat, it’s still fascinating the amount of love and effort that goes in to preparing these types of meat. The ultimate slow foods!

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:05 am

      Reply

      I don’t know how they have the patience! So much time to prepare it and then someone like me would eat the whole thing in minutes!!

  3. Karen @ Trans-Americas Journey |

    June 18, 2012 at 12:35 pm

    Reply

    They sure do know how to eat in Italy and you sure do know how to make me hungry. Tasty food post! I wonder if Armani would miss his…

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:07 am

      Reply

      Surely he wouldn’t notice? I should’ve tested the theory… 🙂

  4. Forrest |

    June 18, 2012 at 3:34 pm

    Reply

    Very nice post.

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:07 am

      Reply

      Thanks Forrest.

  5. Angela |

    June 18, 2012 at 4:50 pm

    Reply

    Isn’t this delicious 🙂 I admit it’s been hard to stick to a vegetarian diet in Italy 😉

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:07 am

      Reply

      Being a vegetarian would be hard in Italy. But just be thankful you’re not gluten-intolerant. That would be nigh on impossible!!

  6. Italian Notes |

    June 18, 2012 at 5:57 pm

    Reply

    It does look a lot like a bat cave. And the smell must be overwhelming. Thanks for another great story from Italy. I really admire your style.

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:09 am

      Reply

      It’s funny, you kind of get used to the smell. But it was still pretty creepy being down there. I honestly did expect them to start flying around and attacking me at any moment!

  7. Laurence |

    June 18, 2012 at 6:12 pm

    Reply

    What Caz said! Amazing how much time and effort goes into this sort of thing. Part of me wonders how humanity could be if we spent this much time focusing on solving issues. On the other hand, the ham looks tasty…

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:09 am

      Reply

      Who needs world peace when you can have Parma ham? 🙂

  8. Bret @ Green Global Travel |

    June 18, 2012 at 11:51 pm

    Reply

    That’s hilarious, I just wrote about Alain Ducasse in a freelance story I did last night about famous chefs opening up restaurants in the Caribbean! Mary and I have really gotten into charcuterie in recent years, and I have not yet had breakfast, so this looks like heaven! Nom nom nom…

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:10 am

      Reply

      Yes, apologies. This post really should have come with a warning message not to read it if you are hungry!

  9. Stephanie - The Travel Chica |

    June 19, 2012 at 12:57 pm

    Reply

    The cheese photo makes my mouth water.

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:11 am

      Reply

      It would go perfectly with some of that South American wine you keep talking about on your site!! 🙂

  10. Annette | Bucket List Journey |

    June 20, 2012 at 2:07 am

    Reply

    I would have to stick one of those Parma hams in my purse and make a run for it! Looks yummy!

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 20, 2012 at 6:12 am

      Reply

      Oh, believe me, it was very tempting! Maybe that’s why they tried to slow me down with all the delicious lambrusco!! 🙂

  11. Cole @ Four Jandals |

    June 23, 2012 at 10:53 pm

    Reply

    We are making sandwiches using ham from the local markets every day in Italy. Loving it!

    • Michael Turtle |

      July 3, 2012 at 8:16 pm

      Reply

      I ate so much food in Italy. The ham is absolutely delicious… and there are so many different ways that they prepare it!

  12. T.W. Anderson @ Marginal Boundaries |

    July 5, 2012 at 9:30 pm

    Reply

    Man, I just *had* to read this first thing in the morning on an empty stomach. Culatello parma is DELISH…..and now I’m absolutely starving.

    Great post, great shots 🙂 HUNGRY! 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      July 8, 2012 at 2:17 am

      Reply

      Sorry!!! Every time I look at the photos I get pangs in my stomach. I miss the Italian food already… 🙁

  13. T.W. Anderson @ Marginal Boundaries |

    July 5, 2012 at 9:31 pm

    Reply

    Consequently, parma is my all-time favorite cheese in the world. Give me a good red, a block of the hard stuff and I’m set for the evening 🙂

  14. Mary @ Green Global Travel |

    August 11, 2012 at 11:09 am

    Reply

    The Italians do amazing things with pork products. I don’t think I’ve ever met an Italian ham I didn’t like.

    • Michael Turtle |

      August 22, 2012 at 2:49 am

      Reply

      If only we could live on a diet of pure pig… What a happy life that would be!!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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