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Tivoli’s masterpiece

December 27, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 14 Comments

WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Villa d’Este, Tivoli

It’s not too hard to imagine what kind of man Ippolito II d’Este would have been. Born into a wealthy and influential Italian family in 1509, he was a lover of the finest things.

Although he was made Archbishop of Milan when he was nine years old (the title was hereditary then), he saw the church as an instrument to be used to gain even more power.

Vows of celibacy weren’t his thing. He would bring in musicians, prostitutes, feasts and wine to impress the people who needed impressing.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

When he was made the governor of Tivoli, he arrived in the town about 20 kilometres from Rome and did not like the look of the home that had been assigned to him.

And so, in the style appropriate for someone who kept peacocks as pets, he decided to build a new and much grander residence, not far from where the Roman emperor Hadrian had built his pleasure palace.

If you are interested in combining a day trip from Rome to see both Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este, there’s a very good and affordable tour here that I would recommend.

There are also a few other options that are really good:

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Nobody argued at the time when Ippolito II d’Este decided to dramatically modify the monastery he had been given in Tivoli – he was, after all, the grandson of a pope.

And you’d be hard-pressed to find someone who would argue today because his creation was the Villa d’Este, one of the most magnificent examples of renaissance architecture and gardens in the world.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Inside the villa

The large villa is spread over two levels with grand rooms with unique designs. The paintings on the walls and ceilings of the rooms make them feel like cubes of art than practical spaces but they were used back in the 16th century for both living and entertaining.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy
Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Most of the artworks have been described as ‘secular allegories’, which is probably quite suitable for a man who seemed to give his own interpretation to the role of the church.

Although Ippolito II d’Este became a cardinal (and almost pope), it was much more to do with lavish gifts he sent to European dignitaries than for selfless service to religion.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

The gardens

It’s the gardens which are the most lavish part of the compound, though.

From the villa, stairs and paths lead down to the garden along five main corridors. At one side, the garden is elevated by a cliff-like fountain. The effect is that the whole space feels a bit like an amphitheatre.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy
Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Throughout the garden area are immaculately manicured hedges and trees, colourful flower gardens, stone statues and fountains.

The fountains themselves are works of genius and were all designed to use gravity and hydraulics to move the water through them. Even today, all but two large jets are still operated without electronics or motors.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy
Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Visiting Villa d’Este, Tivoli

As I walk down from the fountains at the top, with the villa above me on the left and an emptiness ahead that looks out over the suburbs of Tivoli, I can only imagine how it was to be here more than 400 years ago when the villa first came into existence.

The parties which must have been held here, the important people who must have come to visit, the amazement of everyone when they beheld this masterpiece for the first time.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy
Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy
Villa d'Este, Tivoli, Italy

Over the years the villa did fall into a state of disrepair but it was eventually taken over by the Italian Government in 1920. Since then they’ve worked to restore and maintain it and make it available to everyone.

To do a day trip from Rome to see both Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este, there’s a very good and affordable tour here that I would recommend.

There are some other good options here, that you may prefer:

It’s also possible to visit Tivoli independently from Rome, and I’ve got some tips on how to do that below.

Where is Villa d’Este in Tivoli?

Villa d’Este is in the centre of Tivoli at Piazza Trento, 5.

You can see it on a map here.

When is Villa d’Este open?

Villa d’Este opens at 8:30am and closes an hour before sunset. It is closed on Mondays.

How much does it cost to visit Vill d’Este?

Entrance fees are €8 for an adult, €4 for a reduced ticket. You can buy tickets in advance here to skip the line, but I’m not sure it’s worth the extra expense.

How do you get to Villa d’Este in Tivoli?

The quickest way from Rome by public transport is to catch the Metro Line B to Ponte Mammolo and then get the bus marked to Tivoli.

More information

You can find out more information at Villa d’Este’s official website.

This is an easy day trip from Rome or a good stopping point for journeys to the east of the capital. It is definitely worth the visit. You can also combine it with a visit to Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli.

Ippolito II d’Este may have been an extravagant man who presumably made as many enemies as he did friends – but he has left us with a stunning legacy of which he should be proud.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN TIVOLI

Although you can visit as a day trip from Rome, there’s enough to see to make a lovely overnight stay in Tivoli.

BACKPACKER

There aren’t really any hostels in town, but you’ll find good rates at La Giada.

BUDGET

I think Cristallo Relais is a wonderful little hotel with excellent value for money.

BOUTIQUE

For a rustic villa atmosphere, have a look at the charming Casale Colleoni.

LUXURY

And for an incredible historic hotel, Residenze Gregoriane is a very special experience.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more info click here. You can see all the UNESCO World Heritage Sites I’ve visited here.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Lauren Meshkin |

    November 13, 2013 at 7:18 pm

    Reply

    Wow. I’ve never seems gardens like that before! Absolutely insane. Another villa to add to my list… 🙂

    Thanks for sharing!

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 29, 2013 at 1:42 am

      Reply

      Oh, you’ve got to go! The gardens are insane. They’re even more spectacular when you realise all the fountains and water features are being powered by gravity!

  2. Mary @ Green Global Travel |

    November 18, 2013 at 3:00 am

    Reply

    Gorgeous! Without question, the property is beautiful and the engineering certainly inspires awe, as does the extraordinary and abundant art. I too find it difficult to imagine living in spaces so thoroughly detailed in artwork, though with that said, your images of the interior are extraordinary and I loved having the opportunity to do a virtual visual walk-through.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 29, 2013 at 1:23 am

      Reply

      The interiors were stunning and when I was standing there looking at them, I was so glad I’d decided to visit. But then I went outside to see the gardens and was blown away – they were even more spectacular to see in person!

  3. Cipri @Travelocafe |

    November 21, 2013 at 8:26 pm

    Reply

    Villa d’Este, Tivoli – now this is a dreamy place! Why can’t I own such a place! LOL What unrealistic dreams I have this morning! Great post with great photos.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 29, 2013 at 1:15 am

      Reply

      It’s so big you could share it with about 50 other people and you wouldn’t even know they were there… that makes it a bit more realistic, right? 🙂

  4. Devlin @ Marginal Boundaries |

    November 22, 2013 at 5:49 am

    Reply

    I want painted walls & ceilings like that in my place, haha!

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 29, 2013 at 1:14 am

      Reply

      Just imagine how that would look! It’s pretty spectacular, isn’t it?

  5. Jennifer |

    December 20, 2013 at 5:49 am

    Reply

    Beautiful! I’ve always wanted to visit the villa and gardens but never seem to make it there. It’s always the places closest to home we think we’ll get to but pass over for more faraway lands.

    • Michael Turtle |

      January 20, 2014 at 8:04 pm

      Reply

      If you could do it as a weekend trip, you definitely should. It’s absolutely beautiful and is a little different to the usual Roman ruins and churches that seem to be the main sights around the country.

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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