The Galle of the Europeans

No history of Sri Lanka is complete without looking at the influence of the Europeans. The walls of the Old Town of Galle represent it so perfectly.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. He has been a journalist for more than 20 years and has travelled the world full time since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

Updated:

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

In my stories about Sri Lanka, I have written a lot about the ancient histories of the island – the great cities of kings and the religious expressions of the Buddhist culture. But no look at the country is complete without examining the role of Europeans.

In the city of Galle, we can see an excellent representation of the story of their involvement.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

Galle was built as a fortified coastal city with large walls along the seashore.

It was designed with a European way of thinking – that attacks from colonial competitors could come from the sea as well as the land.

Battlements along the walls provide the means for defence in case of an invasion.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

It started with the Portuguese in the 1588 and, at that time, the land borders of Galle were the most important sides to be protected because the biggest threat was from the locals.

The Portuguese built the town itself in the style of their homeland with churches as the most important buildings in the new settlement.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

Galle fell to the Dutch in 1640 and the walls along the sea were fortified at this point. The French, the English, the Danish, the Spanish and the Portuguese were all vying for supremacy of the seas in this part of the world. An assault could come at any moment from one of the nations looking for a new stronghold in South Asia.

The settlement that the Dutch built inside the walls is what mainly remains today. The grid layout with wide roads and low buildings is reminiscent of the architecture in Holland and the time.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka
Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

The geography of the two lands is different – as are the climates. And so regional variations had to be incorporated into the way the town was constructed.

When you wander around today and see the buildings, the most obvious aspect of difference is the open verandas supported by columns and the gardens attached to each house.

It may technically be European architecture but there are strong South Asian traditions incorporated into it.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka
Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

At its peak under the Dutch, Galle was home to about 500 families. It had public buildings, administration centres, warehouses and (of course) churches.

There were also military facilities like barracks and weapons factories. After all, this was primarily a stronghold for Europeans in a strange land a long way from home.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

Galle was handed over to the British in 1796 and they proceeded to make a number of changes to the city. Nothing fundamental, but some building and gates were added and a tower was erected to celebrate the jubilee of Queen Victoria.

These changes are still part of the city today.

Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka
Old Town of Galle, Sri Lanka

What is also clearly part of the city today is tourists. They are everywhere. And you’ll get more out of your visit with a guide. I have a few suggestions here:

 

Although Galle as a city is the ninth largest in Sri Lanka (with a population of 100,000), almost all of these people live outside the fortified walls of the Old Town. This seems reserved mainly for guesthouses, restaurants and cafes.

Some homes are nestled in between but they seem to be outnumbered by the groups strolling the streets with their cameras or the people sitting in the terraces of restaurants with a cool drink.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN GALLE

Although there are some charming options inside Galle Fort, the nicer hotels tend to be a bit further along the coast.

BACKPACKER

For a backpacker option, Dreamers Arc Hostel is small but cheap and comfortable.

BUDGET

For a nice hotel in the fort area at a great price, have a look at Southern Comforts Guest House.

BOUTIQUE

For a stylish hotel in a historic building in the fort area, The Fort Printers is incredible.

LUXURY

And if you are looking for luxury, I think one of the best hotels around Galle is Jetwing Lighthouse.

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of Sri Lankan Airlines and Cinnamon Hotels and Resorts but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

UNESCO logo

This site is on the UNESCO World Heritage List!
I'm on a mission to visit as many World Heritage Sites as I can. Only about 800 more to go... eek!

5 thoughts on “The Galle of the Europeans”

  1. Although you have mentioned Galle as ninth largest city of Sri Lanka (probably by population) , it is the forth important city after Colombo, Kandy and Jaffna

    Reply
  2. Hi there. This is a brilliant site. I have been struggling to find intelligent and insightful information about Sri Lanka and this is the best site i have come across. You have covered all the areas I had wondered about and also have given me insight to venture to other areas in Sri Lanka that I had never thought about going to.

    Reply

Leave a comment