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The Big Easy is harder than you think

April 16, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 3 Comments

CITY DISCOVERY

Crime in New Orleans

Just a block or two from where I was out drinking one night, two people were shot dead and several more injured in altercations that escalated quickly.

The next day the local newspaper had a big article about the murders, filled with the usual fist-shaking condemnations of police and politicians.

Next to that, though, was a similar-sized article about what effect the shootings would have on tourism.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is the essence of New Orleans.

It’s a city where decadence meets dangerous and where it’s not just the drink prices that are criminal.

New Orleans is one of the most popular destinations for visitors in the US but outside the purring tourist-fuelled economy, there’s suburb after suburb of poverty, crime and hopelessness.

New Orleans, Louisiana, crime, poverty, katrina, is New Orleans safe

Hurricane Katrina didn’t help – and it gets most of the attention these days – but it’s not the problem. It merely exacerbated it.

There were many times when locals thanked me for coming to town, for bringing business to a city still trying to rebuild its infrastructure and its pride after such a devastating natural disaster.

The biggest issues facing New Orleans existed well before the levees broke, though.

New Orleans and tourism

The problem, to my mind, lies in a structure where so much of the city’s focus is on tourism that there are virtually no other opportunities to employ the rest of the population.

Figures show that about 40 per cent of the income comes from tourism. The residents unlucky enough to not have a job in hospitality are left to stagnate in the dark as they watch the bright lights of the city and catch wafts of music from afar.

New Orleans, Louisiana, crime, poverty, katrina, is New Orleans safe

New Orleans is a playground for the wealthy and uninhibited. In their 2011 poll of American cities, Travel + Leisure magazine rated New Orleans top of the list for ‘Live Music’, ‘Cocktail Hours’, ‘Singles Scene’, ‘Wild Weekends’ and ‘People Watching’.

It was almost at the bottom of the list for ‘Safety’ and ‘Cleanliness’.

Now, don’t get me wrong, it’s a fascinating city and one in which I had a great time. Aside from the bars and clubs and all the music and hedonism within them, there’s the architecture of the French Quarter, the mansions of St Charles, the hipsters of Magazine St, and the amazing local food, full of shrimp and spices.

It’s a city where voodoo remains in the blood; where passion is indiscriminate; and the architecture brings you into a world unlike anywhere else in the US.

You can walk down the street and see a brass band marching towards you; strangers will throw necklaces of beads to you from balconies as you stroll past; and there’s always an excuse to dress up or throw a party.

New Orleans, Louisiana, crime, poverty, katrina, is New Orleans safe

When those shootings happened on the popular Bourbon Street, the party continued.

The tourists who come to New Orleans don’t want to think about the lives being lived around them. It’s all about the moment.

And in some ways, it seems the locals feel that way too. As long as someone is having fun…

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN NEW ORLEANS

You’ll be able to find some hotels in gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings and there are lots of affordable options in Riga’s historic centre.

BACKPACKER

For a fun backpacker option, there’s India House.

BUDGET

There aren’t a lot of good cheap hotels in New Orleans, but I would suggest French Market Inn.

BOUTIQUE

For a hotel with more style, you can try the wonderful Hotel Peter and Paul.

LUXURY

And the beautiful Maison de la Luz is one of the best luxury hotels in the city!

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Alex |

    February 27, 2015 at 5:47 am

    Reply

    New Orleans really is a special place. It has that vibe that even cities in France don’t. I go there once a year just for that vibe.

    • Michael Turtle |

      March 16, 2015 at 5:40 pm

      Reply

      I agree – there’s a cool vibe to the place. But it’s hard to know where the tourist area ends and the organic New Orleans vibe starts. I think I’ll have to go back sometime and try to get to know the city a bit better. I bet there’s heaps to discover!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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