North Africa’s largest madrasa

Ben Youssef Madrasa, Marrakech, Morocco

Built almost 500 years ago, the Ben Youssef Madrasa in Marrakech feels like it has changed very little in that time. As you step through the front door from the wild alleys of the Moroccan city, the cool air brings physical relief but also a sense of calm.

An inscription over the entrance reads, “You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded”.

It could be a message for the tourists who find their way in here, not quite sure what to expect but drawn by guidebooks and recommendations. If so, it’s fitting because the hope of discovering a special slice of authentic Marrakech is indeed hidden away in here.

Of course, the message was actually directed at the students who spent their time here in religious academia.

The Ben Youssef Madrasa was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa and had up to 900 students at its peak. They all lived here on site and it’s hard to imagine today how they all fitted.

Small dormitories arranged around the central courtyard was where they slept but it must have been a tight squeeze.

At times, it must also have been a dark and isolating experience. The layout of the Ben Youssef Madrasa almost immediately erases memory of an outside world. The building doesn’t have a view outwards from the lower levels and the corridors between rooms seem to press inwards.

In most of the small study rooms, there is no natural light and students sit in spaces along the wall with their teacher settled into a space at the end.

The upper levels, however, are brighter and make clever use of sunlights and internal windows. This is where the teachers would have lived. From this top level, it’s also possible to peer down into the central courtyard – and this is where the most beautiful part of the Ben Youssef Madrasa is.

The courtyard is an intricate and colourful representation of Islamic art from centuries ago. Rather than depicting particular images, small tiles are arranged into mosaics of vibrant patterns.

Plasterwork and carvings on the walls illustrate Arabic inscriptions and even more detailed patterns that conjure up a natural yet somewhat spiritual environment.

The columns, the varied sizes of the doorways and the central pool all fit together in harmony.

The Ben Youssef Madrasa was in use for teaching right up into 1960 but is now open just as a historical site. Clearly very little has been altered or developed since construction was finished in 1565.

Although many guides do not consider it to be one of the top sites to visit in Marrakech, it would a shame to miss it.

NOTE: Unfortunately the Ben Youssef Madrasa is currently (2018) closed for an extensive renovation. There is no official date for the reopening at the moment.

But I would recommend getting a local tour of the main sights in Marrakech and there are some great options here:

>> See my tips for things to do in Marrakech <<

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN MARRAKECH

The most authentic style of accommodation is a riad in the medina – but they come in all shapes and sizes!

BACKPACKER

For a cool and safe hostel in a riad, have a look at Rodamón Marrakech.

BUDGET

A nice riad that is affordable and welcoming is Riad Dar Nadwa.

BOUTIQUE

For a stunning boutique option, I think 72 Riad Living is one of the best in the city.

LUXURY

And Riad L’Hôtel Marrakech is an absolutely stunning hotel, if you feel like splurging!

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT MOROCCO?

See my Morocco Travel Guide

To help you plan your trip to Morocco:

• My tips on the best things to do in Marrakech
• Why it’s worth doing a side trip to this seaside city
• Visit an incredible World Heritage Site used for filming Game of Thrones
• My suggestions for the best things to see in the Medina of Fez
• What you’ll find when you explore the blue city of Chefchaouen
• The grand buildings of the old imperial city of Meknes
• Finding the new and the old in the capital city Rabat
• Visit the ancient Roman ruins that are now a World Heritage Site
• How to deal with touts in Morocco
• Details about all the World Heritage Sites in Morocco

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a Morocco tour, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours in Morocco.

You could consider:

• Morocco Kasbahs and Desert (8 days)
• Highlights of Morocco (15 days)
• Sahara and Beyond (15 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you use World Nomads for your trip.