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The stones that give birth

February 8, 2018 | Michael Turtle | 28 Comments

NATURAL GEOPARK

Arouca Geopark, Portugal

It’s just a short drive from the sea to the mountains, first along modern national highways and then bended rural roads through traditional villages. With the water behind us, the ground rises and the salty air is replaced with the crispness of altitude. It doesn’t take long to leave the coastal cities of northern Portugal below.

One of the things I was to learn quickly during my time in Portugal is that it’s hard to categorise this country. Despite the size, variety abounds. Just when you think you understand something, another layer is peeled back and more is revealed.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

This is how I found myself in the mountains, confused as to where the beaches and cities had gone. What are all these rocks doing here?

In the middle of the Arouca Geopark it’s easy to forget the rest of the Portugal. This is one of the world’s best geological sites and the authorities have taken great care to protect it and make it accessible to visitors. 14 hiking trails cross the park, taking people past geosites, streams, villages and rest stops.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Sheep. They’re not supposed to be here… well, not to my mind, at least. But a group of them walk past, ushered along by an old woman, bent over to the point where she has to raise her head to keep an eye on her flock.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Not long after, a herd of cows come by. Then it’s a procession of almost a hundred goats, jumping onto rocks and butting into each other as they scramble to find their footing. It seems the geopark is brimming with life – I told you each layer reveals another surprise.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Visiting Arouca, Portugal

There are about 25,000 people who live within the boundaries of the park (which is 330 km2) although most of them are in the region’s largest city. Up here on top of the mountains, the villages sometimes count their residents on less than two hands.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Sometimes it seems like the rocks themselves are alive, though. Take the ‘stones that give birth’, as they’re known after a bit of translation from Portuguese.

They are one of the iconic aspects of the Arouca Geopark because the phenomenon is so rare around the world. Within a section of granite, lumps of dark minerals have formed and over many years, because of erosion and changes in temperature, it appears like the nodules grow out of the stone and then pop off.

Not surprisingly, perhaps, local legend says the site where this occurs has the power to make women pregnant.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

There are 41 sites across the park with interesting geological features. They include the longest waterfall in continental Portugal (at 70m high) and fossils of trilobites.

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

Arouca Geopark in Portugal, Things to do near Porto

It seems expansive when you’re standing within the park – the views stretching out across hills, falling into valleys, and flowing along streams. There’s a lot of green, which mixes in with the grey of the rocks and the yellow and purple of the flowers.

One minute you’ll be amongst trees bent as though under pressure from a constant wind… the next you’ll be the highest thing on a rocky outcrop, watching the livestock below you.

Like the rest of Portugal, the Arouca Geopark is hard to categorise. Just when you think you understand, there’s something else.

>> More info here about the Arouca Geopark <<

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of the  Porto and Northern Portugal Tourism Association but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. D.J. - The World of Deej |

    September 17, 2012 at 10:25 pm

    Reply

    Interesting stuff…the pic of the waterfall is incredible.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:16 am

      Reply

      Thanks, it was a really interesting place. Hope you get a chance to get there sometime!

  2. Cathy Sweeney |

    September 18, 2012 at 2:43 am

    Reply

    I didn’t have a lot of preconceptions about Portugal before reading this, but I wouldn’t have expected a place like Arouca. Fascinating & beautiful. It’s wonderful to be surprised by places we think we know. What a sight — all those goats!

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:17 am

      Reply

      No, it certainly wasn’t the kind of place I was expecting either. It really was beautiful, though. And the goats were great!! 🙂

  3. Laura @Travelocafe |

    September 18, 2012 at 3:29 am

    Reply

    Wow, it’s lovely!

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:18 am

      Reply

      Yeah, not what you think of when you think of Portugal, is it? But that’s the north of the country for you!

  4. crazy sexy fun traveler |

    September 18, 2012 at 8:06 am

    Reply

    Cool place and fun trip. And of course, your bad jokes 😀

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:20 am

      Reply

      Ha ha… yes, I’m sorry you had to be there for them! 🙂

  5. Steve |

    September 18, 2012 at 10:46 am

    Reply

    Sweet shots. It reminds me of The Burren on the west coast of Ireland although geologically it sounds way different…

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:22 am

      Reply

      I haven’t been to Ireland so I’ll have to take your word for it. It does make me more interested in checking it out sometime, though!

  6. Julie Dawn Fox |

    September 18, 2012 at 6:42 pm

    Reply

    I’ve been wanting to visit Arouça for some time but even more so now I’ve seen your photos. Like you say, Portugal is surprisingly diverse and I’m glad you got to see something of the wilder side during your trip.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:23 am

      Reply

      I can’t believe you’ve spent so much time in Portugal and have never got up to Arouca before! I hope this is the thing that finally gets you up there!
      And, yes, it was nice to see a different side of the country.

  7. Angela |

    September 18, 2012 at 10:24 pm

    Reply

    After the bleeding stones in Sardinia, I’m ready for every kind of stone-induced wonder 😛 Great place, would love to visit.

    • Michael Turtle |

      September 20, 2012 at 2:25 am

      Reply

      Ha ha… what is it with all these creepy stones? Are they actually alive and just waiting to take over the world one day? :p

  8. Leigh |

    September 21, 2012 at 1:57 am

    Reply

    I was in the area years ago on a bike trip through Port country but had never heard of the place. If my geologist husband had known of its’ existence we would have visited for sure. Fabulous photos.

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 1, 2012 at 3:26 am

      Reply

      It sounds like a perfect excuse to go back some time. A geologist would certainly have a field day there. For the rest of us, the scenery is a good enough reason to visit.

  9. Adela @FourJandals |

    September 21, 2012 at 3:03 am

    Reply

    Whenever I think of Portugal I do only think of beaches, so its nice to see a totally different aspect to it. Great pictures, the one with the sheep made me laugh!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 1, 2012 at 3:27 am

      Reply

      I guess being such a thin country, there are plenty of beaches. But it doesn’t take much to find a little bit more to enjoy. Such a pity you couldn’t join us this time!

  10. Wanderplex |

    September 25, 2012 at 2:17 am

    Reply

    I didn’t realize there were such rustic/rural parts to Portugal. For some reason I always picture the country as full of beautiful old towns. This is beautiful too, of course, but definitely not my preconception of the country!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 1, 2012 at 3:37 am

      Reply

      I was really surprised as well. A whole different part to the country I never expected to see!

  11. Rita |

    October 18, 2012 at 9:15 pm

    Reply

    Gosh, it’s terrible that I only hear of this now that I am exactly on the opposite side of the world but never throughout my life, while I lived in Portugal!! Thanks for sharing though. It’s beautiful!

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 23, 2012 at 3:02 pm

      Reply

      Perhaps a good reason to go back some time? 🙂

  12. darasola |

    October 22, 2012 at 4:29 am

    Reply

    Congratulations for your post about my home land. Arouca has countless tresures to discover: like the old nazi and british mines in the WW2. The beautiful rivers where you can swim in summer. I hope you liked it (I know you did) and that tourists visit this small portuguese city.
    Greetings from Portugal
    darasola webmaster

    • Michael Turtle |

      October 23, 2012 at 2:51 pm

      Reply

      I loved the place and I’m so jealous that you get to live there!! I would love to go back in summer and explore some more… and definitely swim in those rivers (although they might still be a bit cold for me…)

  13. Susana Fidalgo |

    June 23, 2015 at 11:17 pm

    Reply

    I stumbled upon your page, looking for some sort o explanation on the rocks “that give birth” to share with my friends. I visited Arouca last year, on one of those sundays my hysband and I just decide to hit the road and find something new. It is such an awsome place up there. And let me tell you, the shepherdess, if that is even a word, is still up there tendind to her flock of sheep! Apparently, they also opened something new this year, they created boardwalks along the river; they bring you up close to the fauna that makes Arouca so precious – maybe you should visit again! Take care

    • Michael Turtle |

      June 24, 2015 at 11:45 am

      Reply

      Oh, that’s cool to hear about the boardwalks. Arouca was so pretty and I would love to go back sometime and do a bit more walking through it all. I love that they’re adding new features all the time. Thanks for the message!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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