Visit the Yungang Grottoes

Outside, it’s a bright sunny day. Inside the cave, only a sliver of that summer light is coming through the door that was chiselled into the rock centuries ago.

It’s left mostly to lightbulbs to illuminate the hundreds of small statues carved into the walls, creating dark shadows that contrast with the earthy paints of red and orange.

But in this cave, the focus for me – and for the crowd of mostly local tourists – is the enormous Buddha statue in the centre. 17 metres high, seated, and with vibrant blue hair, it’s simultaneously a symbol of peace and power.

I feel like it’s staring at me. I stare back but it doesn’t flinch. What did I expect from ancient stone? But I hold my gaze not as competition, but to give me time to appreciate it.

This is one of the highlights of the Yungang Grottoes – but there’s more, much more, to see here.

What are the Yungang Grottoes?

Visiting the Yungang Grottoes, there is no shortage of statues to stare at.

In fact, there are more than 51,000 statues at the Yungang Grottoes, spread across more than 250 manmade caves that span a length of more than a kilometre.

There are so many, that it takes me a few hours to see the whole site, going into each of the main 20 caves (not all 250 of them!) one by one to discover the mini gallery that’s been created inside.

This is one of the most important cultural attractions in northeastern China, and part of the reason is the sheer scale of what you find here.

But the Yungang Grottoes have also been included as one of China’s World Heritage Sites because of the significance of the art. Most of these caves and statues were carved about 1500 years ago and mark an important turning point for religious art in the region.

It’s the large Buddha statues that initially catch my attention – especially in Cave 3 and Cave 5 (none of the names are more imaginative than this). And the 14-metre unpainted one in Cave 20 that looks like it’s been sculpted directly onto the cliff face.

But over the hours that I spend seeing the main sights of the Yungang Grottoes, I also come to appreciate the smaller sculptures and their ornate details.

Thinking about how old they are, how they were sculpted by hand in the 5th and 6th centuries, brings the carved figures to life.

In those that are dancing or reaching out, I can sense their movement. Even those just sitting still have so much life.

Today, the Yungang Grottoes are a fascinating mix of ancient devotion and modern domestic tourism.

There’s still a lot of spirituality here, but it can also get very crowded with tourists, especially as the high-speed rail makes it possible to visit the Yungang Grottoes as a day trip from Beijing (even though it’s about 300 kilometres away).

But my suggestion is to spend at least a night in the nearby city of Datong, which has lots to see itself. You can even use Datong as a base for a couple of days to see some other sights in the region.

Before I get into those details, though, let’s have a look at who built the Yungang Grottoes.

A brief history of Yungang Grottoes

To understand the Yungang Grottoes, we need to rewind to the 5th century, a time when northern China was ruled by the Wei Dynasty.

The capital of this powerful empire wasn’t Beijing or Xian – it was right here in Datong (then called Pingcheng).

Buddhism had only reached China relatively recently and, as if often the case with introductions of new religions, there had been tensions. This includes persecution against Buddhists by the Wei Dynasty in the early 5th century.

But in 452 AD, a new emperor called Wencheng took the throne at just age 12. He was a committed Buddhist and, until his death at only 24 years old, he encouraged the faith the blossom.

One of the large projects he promoted was the Yungang Grottoes, which was led by a prominent monk called Tan Yao, who began work in 460 AD.

Those first five caves to be dug out of the mountainside are now known as Caves 16 to 20. Each was built with a colossal Buddha statue that resembled, in order, Emperor Wencheng and his four predecessors.

It was about religion but also about politics, representing the imperial rulers with images of Buddha.

As I said, Wencheng died in 465, about 5 years after the project began, but the Wei Dynasty emperors that followed continued the work.

The next big phase came between 471 and 494, when high-ranking figures like monks, nobles, and court officials cut caves at the site to show their devotion to Buddhism (or perhaps to show their devotion to the emperor).

It was during this period that the impressive caves we know today as Caves 5 to 12 were built (along with many other smaller ones around the site).

In 494, the Wei capital was moved to another city, so the focus on the caves diminished. Still, people kept carving new ones until 525.

It all stopped in 525 because of major wars in the region. It means that almost everything you see today when you visit the Yungang Grottoes was made in just that short 65-year period!

Things to see at Yungang Grottoes

There are lots of things to see when you’re visiting the Yungang Grottoes. Although the path to follow is relatively straightforward, it can be hard to know which caves are significant and which ones you can skip if you’re running short of time.

Lingyan Temple

As you walk into the main scenic area, the first major structure you’ll hit before the caves is Lingyan Temple. It sits beautifully on an island in the middle of a lake, accessed by an elegant stone bridge.

But I’ll be completely straight with you – this isn’t the ancient history you’ve come to see. The temple is actually a relatively modern reconstruction built to enhance the tourist experience.

Still, it’s worth a quick stroll through. The massive wooden halls are genuinely impressive, especially the giant wooden Buddha statues carved from camphor wood.

It acts as a great mental palate cleanser. Walking through the quiet courtyards and listening to the wind in the trees sets a peaceful, spiritual mood before you get to the chaotic, awe-inspiring scale of the actual grottoes.

Just don’t spend too much time here, because the real treasures are waiting just up the path.

Cave 3

Of all the grottoes at Yungang, Cave 3 is actually the largest. It’s set slightly apart from the main cluster and was one of the last ones to be carved. In fact, it was never finished before work ended at the site.

Stepping inside the cavernous space, you’ll see leftover blocks of stone near the entrance that were just abandoned by the ancient workers. It gives the place a slightly raw, industrial feel.

But the back room is where you’ll find the main attraction – a towering 10-metre-high seated Buddha flanked by two bodhisattvas.

Because this cave was completed much later during the early Tang Dynasty, the carving style is noticeably different. The figures have plump, rounded faces and a softer, more graceful look than the Northern Wei statues you’ll see elsewhere.

When the sunlight hits the statues at the right angle, the contrast of light and shadow inside the huge, echoing space is completely mesmerising. It’s usually a bit quieter here, making it a great spot for photos.

Caves 5 and 6

If you only have time for a few caves, Caves 5 and 6 should be at the absolute top of your list. They were built as a pair and are easily the most lavishly decorated temples at the Yungang Grottoes.

Walking into Cave 5, you’ll need to crane your neck right back. It houses a staggering 17-metre-tall seated Buddha – the largest indoor statue in the entire complex. The sheer size of it looming over you in the enclosed space is almost intimidating.

But Cave 6 is also really interesting because it’s essentially an ancient 3D comic book.

Every single inch of the walls and the massive central pagoda pillar are covered in incredibly detailed intricate carvings telling the story of the Buddha’s life.

It can be a bit claustrophobic in here, especially when you’re packed in with large tour groups pointing at the walls, but the sheer artistic mastery makes it entirely worth the squeeze.

Caves 7 and 8

Continuing along the cliff face, Caves 7 and 8 are the earliest pair of adjoining grottoes built at Yungang.

They share a similar structural design, but they each have their own unique artistic highlights that make them worth a closer look, like carved figures that seem to be dancing, or unique facial expressions on the statues.

But my favourite detail is in Cave 8. Among all the solemn, serious faces across the site, there is one bodhisattva here sporting a genuine, gentle smile with visible dimples and small teeth. It’s known as the ‘Cute Bodhisattva’.

These caves are also where you really start to notice the foreign design elements, like Indian deities, proving just how connected this ancient empire was to the rest of the world via the Silk Road.

Caves 9 to 13

This section, often called the Five Magnificent Caves, is where the Yungang Grottoes really burst into colour.

Unlike the raw stone you see elsewhere, the statues in Caves 9 to 13 were coated in clay and painted with vivid, bright colours during the Qing Dynasty.

Cave 12 is the absolute standout of the group. It’s famously known as the Music Cave, and stepping inside feels like you’ve crashed an ancient royal concert.

The walls and ceilings are absolutely packed with carvings of musicians, dancers, and old Silk Road instruments like the pan flute and the pipa. If you look closely at the ceiling, you can even spot a conductor directing the band.

The colourful paint makes the details pop, but it also means this area is incredibly popular. Expect to shuffle slowly through the crowds here as everyone stops to take in the vibrant, open-air concert hall.

Caves 16 to 20

Finally, you’ll reach the oldest – and arguably the most famous – part of the site: the Five Caves of Tan Yao, covering Caves 16 to 20.

This is where the entire mammoth project started in the 5th century. Inside each of these oval-shaped caves sits a colossal Buddha, deliberately carved to represent one of the first five emperors of the Northern Wei Dynasty.

The undeniable star of the show is Cave 20. The outer wall of this cave collapsed centuries ago, completely exposing the 13.7-metre-tall seated Buddha to the elements.

This giant, serene figure sitting out in the open air is the iconic postcard shot of the Yungang Grottoes.

Because it’s outside, there’s plenty of space to step back and take it all in. But be warned, this is the main bottleneck for tourists. You’ll need to be patient to get a clear photo without a dozen selfie sticks in your frame.

Other caves

Beyond the headline-grabbing giants and the vibrantly painted halls, the sandstone cliff face is absolutely riddled with hundreds of smaller caves and tiny niches.

As you wander along the main boardwalk, it’s easy to just breeze past these less significant spots, especially since many of them have suffered heavily from 1,500 years of harsh weathering.

You won’t find colossal monuments to emperors here, but rather a dizzying collection of miniature carvings. Some of the walls are covered in a honeycomb of tiny figures that were often commissioned by ordinary citizens rather than imperial decree.

Many of the statues have lost their faces to time, wind, and ancient looters, giving these quieter stretches a slightly haunting, mysterious atmosphere.

Slipping away from the loud tour groups to explore these faded niches really hits home just how much of a sprawling generational obsession this mountain became.

Yungang Museum

Tucked away near the exit, the Yungang Museum is a surprisingly modern and spacious building with a striking architectural design.

It acts as a great bookend to your visit. While the caves show you the religious devotion of the time, the museum fills in the political and historical gaps about the Northern Wei Dynasty.

Inside, you’ll find well-curated exhibits explaining how this nomadic empire conquered northern China and why they decided to leave such a massive mark on the side of a mountain.

If you’re suffering from temple fatigue after hours of walking in the sun, you can probably skip the museum and not feel too guilty about it.

But on a hot day, it’s delightfully climate-controlled inside. If you’ve got a spare 30 minutes and want to escape the heat, it’s a brilliant way to wrap up your understanding of this incredible World Heritage Site.