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Australia’s Gold Rush town

January 13, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 14 Comments

EXPLORING HISTORY

There's a lot to see at Ballarat's Sovereign Hill. Let me take you on a tour through history.

  • Jump to: WHAT IS SOVEREIGN HILL?
  • Jump to: GOLD MINING IN BALLARAT
  • Jump to: EXPLORING MAIN STREET
  • Jump to: PRACTICAL INFO

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

A horse and carriage rattle past me on the main street as I jump out of their way. A man in a top hat and waistcoat had just shouted to warn me that I was in the way.

I guess I’m still not quite used to my new surroundings. Or my old surroundings, I should say.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

It’s the middle of the 19th century in country Victoria. Australia is still not officially a country and there’s an optimism about the potential in a new land. And nothing captures optimism better than a gold rush!

In the few years after gold was discovered here at Ballarat, more than 40,000 men descended on the location about 120 kilometres from Melbourne. With so many people and so much indiscriminate wealth to be made, a vibrant town grew quickly.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

And that’s how I find myself at Sovereign Hill today.

What is Sovereign Hill?

In a sense, I have travelled back in time. Back 160 years. To a world that is so different to today… yet so much of it has a sheer of familiarity.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

Sovereign Hill is a recreation of the 1850s in Ballarat – at all levels. Miners pan for gold in a creek or go down the shaft into the underground tunnels; women work behind the counters at shops; men get drunk in the hotels; police keep a watchful eye on everything.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

It all seems a bit overwhelming when I first arrive and I wander around for a while to get my bearings.

I start at a camp of tents where many of the miners would stay when they first arrived. Those who never made it rich would likely stay here for longer.

If you were lucky, you might build a tiny one room house somewhere on the goldfields.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

I meet Ron at one these small houses. Ron is a volunteer who, like everyone who works here, is dressed in period costume.

He tells me how the miner who would’ve lived here would’ve earned some money and sent off for his family. It might have taken a year until they arrived (the message going by boat, the family preparing, and then their passage by boat).

When they did get here, the whole family would’ve have slept in the one room – a baby in with the parents, some of the younger children on a small bed top to tail, older children on the floor.

And remember – those like this were the ones better off.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

I go through the gold panning area where there are dozens of school students trying their luck by the side of the creek. Probably a lot of the miners who came here in the 1850s were not much older than these kids.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

I go past the entrance to a small mine and head up the hill, past machinery and workshops, and arrive at a larger mine shaft with a pump being steam-powered from the boiler room. This is where the main tours of the mines start.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

There are three possible tours for visitors here. Two of them tell a story and involve an audiovisual show along the way. The other one is taken completely by a guide and captures the spirit of working beneath the ground here in Ballarat.

I head down with my guide, Scott, on a train that hurtles us through a pitch black shaft to the level where we can find some of the original mines.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

Gold mining in Ballarat

What’s interesting is seeing the two different approaches to the years of the Gold Rush and the decades that flowed after it.

Large companies moved in and excavated significant parts of the earth. They were funded by shareholders, letting investors all across the country (and world) have a little slice of the action.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

But there were also the individual miners. Ambitious prospectors who claimed their patch and tried their luck. They worked alone or in small groups, setting up the potential for great wealth.

Some struck it rich, like the group of 22 Cornishmen who found the 69 kilogram Welcome Nugget in 1858.

At the time it was the largest nugget ever discovered (it’s still the second-largest) and the gold alone would be worth US$3 million dollars today.

It probably would’ve been worth even more because it was a single piece… but it was sent to London and melted down to make coins.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

But then there were those who hardly earned more than they needed to survive.

The Victorian authorities brought in a licence fee for miners, regardless of whether they found anything. Police were ferocious in their checks of the licences, authorities raised the fees, tensions grew, and eventually this led to the famous Eureka Stockade here in Ballarat.

(The story of which is told in the excellent Blood on the Southern Cross show in the evenings at Sovereign Hill)

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

Such is the gamble of life on the goldfields. Such is the gamble of life.

You can see a bit more in this video:

Exploring Main Street

There’s no doubt that a lot of wealth was created, though, and so a town sprang up quickly to support all these new people and all their demands.

Although I think the mine tours are the highlight of a visit to Sovereign Hill, exploring this town is just as interesting in its own way. As opposed to the tour underground, where your path is predetermined, wandering along main street is like a choose-your-own-adventure.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

There are dozens of buildings to pop into and you never quite know what you’ll discover. Maybe something will be showing at the theatre or there’ll be someone to talk to at the bar. There might be a performance on the street or a craftsman creating something in their workshop.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

The best thing is that everyone is up for a chat, it seems.

Sue at the apothecary has been working at Sovereign Hill for 22 years. When I stop for a little bit, she jokes that during the day she really feels like she’s in the 1850s.

Sue tells me that she works four days a week in the apothecary but also does one day somewhere else in the town. She thinks that’s important to see what’s happening everywhere.

I assume she means that she wants the gossip!

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

That’s probably how Ballarat was in the 1850s and that’s how it is now. Everyone doing their own job but taking an interest in the community around them.

Friendships form, families grow. People come, and people go. And the town just keeps on keeping on.

Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

The last gold mine closed in Ballarat in 1918 and Sovereign Hill opened in 1970, just a generation or two later. Of course it’s a reconstruction, a town trapped in a moment of time. But after spending some time getting to know it better, I see that it’s more than just the 1850s. I think Sovereign Hill is also the natural progression of a dream that’s hard to forget.

The Gold Rush lives on… and evolves.

>> See more at 'The Story Lives On' <<
Sovereign Hill is in Ballarat, about 120 kilometres west of Melbourne. The official address is 39 Bradshaw St, Golden Point, VIC, 3350. You can see it on a map here.
The easiest way to get to Sovereign Hill is by car - it's about a 90 minute drive from Melbourne and there's free parking.
You can also get there by public transport by catching the VLine train from Southern Cross Station to Ballarat and then getting the number 21 bus to the site. There is also a special train package available.
Sovereign Hill is open every day except Christmas Day. It is open from 1000 to 1700. During daylight saving, it stays open a bit longer until 1730.
Entry to Sovereign Hill costs AU$55.50 for adults and AU$44.40 for concession. It's AU$25 for children between 5 and 15 years old and children under 5 get free entry. To guarantee entry, you can buy your tickets in advance here.
There are also family deals and all the tickets give you two days of access.
Gold Mine Tours and Coach Rides cost extra but everything else is included.
Yes, you can arrange tours from Melbourne that will take all the hassle out of it for you. I would recommend either this day tour or this day tour.
The best option is definitely to stay right in the heart of the site at the wonderful Sovereign Hill Hotel!
For a really budget option in the city, you can try Rooms at Carboni's.
The Begonia City Motor Inn is a lovely and affordable option on the edge of town.
Or for something a bit special, I would recommend the historic Craig's Royal Hotel.
You can find out more information at the official website of Sovereign Hill.

Time Travel Turtle was supported by Sovereign Hill but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Mandawa |

    September 12, 2017 at 8:59 pm

    Reply

    Beautiful! Australia looks like a pretty city with all the fun things to do. I really need to make the trip. Your photos are incredible!

  2. India |

    September 13, 2017 at 5:36 pm

    Reply

    Glad to read this information about Australia, it has been a different phase of it and very neatly you described about it.

  3. Taj |

    September 13, 2017 at 8:06 pm

    Reply

    Always wanted to visit Australia, it is my one of the best places thanks for sharing this information about Australia, glad to read this post.

  4. Jessica |

    September 14, 2017 at 6:34 pm

    Reply

    Well, this was a blast from school trips past! Great post!

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 14, 2017 at 2:48 pm

      Reply

      Ha ha. Yeah, I can imagine that schoolkids in Victoria would go to something like this. In fact, I saw a lot of school groups there when I visited! For those of us from Sydney, I guess it was a little too far to take us, sadly.

  5. Alex Steven |

    September 15, 2017 at 5:01 pm

    Reply

    Loved it. A walk through the history is always inspirational and knowledgeable. Amazingly narrated. Australia has always been one of my favorites. Cheers!

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 14, 2017 at 2:47 pm

      Reply

      I know what you mean – I love learning more about history. And being able to ‘experience’ it like you can here in Ballarat is quite a special way to see how it was in the past.

  6. Golden |

    September 20, 2017 at 5:16 pm

    Reply

    Thank you so much for the great list and post! As someone who lives close to the Australia and has experienced its beauty I was glad to see it. Lovely pics.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 14, 2017 at 2:45 pm

      Reply

      It’s my pleasure! You will have to come back to Australia sometime and see a bit more of it, including Sovereign Hill!

  7. Taj |

    October 17, 2017 at 5:45 pm

    Reply

    It seems a very beautiful town, i would like to explore this town with my spouse. Can you tell me is this place perfect for honeymoon?

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 14, 2017 at 2:37 pm

      Reply

      Hi there. Sovereign Hill is more of a historical site than a destination in itself. You could definitely visit it as part of a honeymoon but you should also consider doing a road trip through regional Victoria to make the most of your time.

  8. Golden |

    October 30, 2017 at 10:34 pm

    Reply

    Australia has so many beautiful cities. Beautiful pics. These pictures are so much better than I was able to get. i’m so excited to go there in next year.

    • Michael Turtle |

      November 14, 2017 at 2:10 pm

      Reply

      You’re right – there are a lot of beautiful places to see in Australia. A lot of them, like Ballarat, are also full of history. Hope you have a great trip.

  9. Luke |

    June 22, 2020 at 10:35 pm

    Reply

    Wow! I don’t know but every Gold Rush towns really captivates my heart. The wild west type of living and scenario is just so overwhelming to behold.

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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