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The heart of Myanmar’s faith

July 7, 2019 | Michael Turtle | 20 Comments

RELIGIOUS TRADITION

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon

Approaching the Shwedagon Pagoda, up one of four long wide and covered staircases, is like trying to reach Nirvana itself.

It takes time (ok, only about five minutes), patience (there are a lot of stairs that seem to be neverending) and good karma (by trying to politely decline all the offers to sell you a souvenir).

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

But, like entry to the holy eternity, it is worth it. Because here in the middle of Yangon, Myanmar’s biggest city, is the breathtaking centre of the country’s Buddhist belief.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda is at least a thousand years old – although legend says it has actually been around for much longer. Over the centuries it has gradually been extended and repaired and it’s now 99 metres tall.

The (actual) gold plates on the exterior catch the sun’s rays and the whole complex glows around you. At the very tip of the stupa is a 76 carat diamond.

The stupa is the focus and each of the compass points is an altar where people stop to pray. But circling the base are dozens more small statues of Buddha and shrines where people gather to light incense and wash the figurine.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon dominates the skyline around much of Yangon and all you can see is the tall golden spire. But up the top here now, I appreciate that there’s much more.

It’s like a large religious complex with maybe forty or fifty other small buildings around the outskirts.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Some of the pavilions have more statues of Buddha in various poses, others have monks sitting in quiet contemplation, or sometimes families are just relaxing in the shade and having something to eat.

The sounds of a choir lure me to one shrine where I stop for a while and enjoy their melodies.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Foreigners pay five dollars for entry but the pagoda is, naturally, free for locals. For them, it seems to be about more than just simple religion. It is also a bit of a sanctuary from the chaos of the Yangon streets below.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Special tip!

If you’re planning to visit yourself, I’ve got a little inside tip for you. Most people will go and see the pagoda and then go on their merry way. But at the base of the southern staircase is another pagoda that nobody seems to know about it.

It’s called the Maha Wizaya Pagoda and it’s quite unique because the stupa is hollow. But it’s not just hollow – it has the most incredible design inside to make it look like a forest and a ceiling which shows the constellations of the sky.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

I was the only foreigner there when I wandered up to have a look. When I tried to inconspicuously take a photo inside, a man saw me and stood up from his mat.

I thought he was going to come and berate me but he actually when to turn on the lights in the ceiling so I could get a better shot.

Myanmar Travel Guide

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT MYANMAR?

See my Myanmar Travel Guide

To help you plan your trip to Myanmar:

  • Five ways to experience local Myanmar
  • Why the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon is so important
  • What to expect on the Circle Line in Yangon
  • How to spend a day in Bagan
  • Visiting Mount Popa Monastery from Bagan
  • The best things to see in Bago
  • The story behind the Royal Palace of Mandalay
  • Don’t miss the U Bein Teak Bridge near Mandalay
  • Here’s why I didn’t like visiting Inle Lake
  • Hiking with locals in Shan State

Let someone else do the work for you:

You may also want to consider taking a Myanmar tour, rather than organising everything on your own. It’s also a nice way to have company if you are travelling solo.

I am a ‘Wanderer’ with G Adventures and they have great tours in Myanmar.

You could consider:

  • Myanmar on a Shoestring (14 days)
  • Classic Myanmar Adventure (14 days)
  • The Heart of Myanmar- National Geographic (12 days)

When I travel internationally, I always get insurance. It’s not worth the risk, in case there’s a medical emergency or another serious incident. I recommend you use World Nomads for your trip.

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Muza-chan |

    January 30, 2013 at 8:42 pm

    Reply

    Very beautiful statue 🙂

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 6, 2013 at 1:55 am

      Reply

      Yeah, it’s one of the more impressive sights I’ve seen in SE Asia.

  2. Illumi Arzia |

    January 30, 2013 at 8:53 pm

    Reply

    I like the architecture.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 6, 2013 at 1:59 am

      Reply

      It’s stunning, isn’t it?

  3. Jennifer |

    January 31, 2013 at 10:30 pm

    Reply

    What a beautiful pagoda! And that forest scene is amazing. I was just reading yesterday that Myanmar is THE destination to visit in 2013.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 6, 2013 at 2:03 am

      Reply

      The forest scene was incredible – in a large part because it was so unexpected. I wasn’t even sure if I should bother popping in but clearly it was worth exploring a bit further afield!

  4. D.J. - The World of Deej |

    January 31, 2013 at 11:56 pm

    Reply

    Beautiful… I love the forest decor inside.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 6, 2013 at 2:08 am

      Reply

      I think it’s even more impressive when you’re there in person. The forest scene is a bit hard to capture because it’s all around you when you’re standing there.

  5. Jade Johnston - OurOyster.com |

    February 1, 2013 at 3:16 pm

    Reply

    Aw thats so sweet that they helped you with your lighting as well! haha… looks like an amazing place… and thanks for the insider tip. Myanmar is high up on my list for next years travels

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:12 pm

      Reply

      I know – it was so nice. I got the feeling they were really proud of their place, so they wanted to make sure I got the best experience I could there.

  6. Nicholle Olores |

    February 1, 2013 at 3:19 pm

    Reply

    The beautiful Pagoda shows how they love and value their faith.
    The place is truly wonderful.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:13 pm

      Reply

      Faith is definitely a really important thing in the lives of the Myanmar people. They take a lot of their pagodas and temples and they always look so beautiful and well-cared for!

  7. Vinay |

    February 1, 2013 at 6:09 pm

    Reply

    Beautiful Pagodas and even more beautiful statues of Buddha housed in them. These really represent the best that Myanmar has to offer.

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:14 pm

      Reply

      You can’t go anywhere in Myanmar without coming across the Buddha statues – but they are all stunning!

  8. Shamanth |

    February 2, 2013 at 10:56 am

    Reply

    Looks beautiful from the pics – love the glow of the dome – is the entire dome made of gold? I’ve also read that the Sule pagoda in Yangon is quite grand – which of Sule and Shwedagon did you find better?

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:15 pm

      Reply

      Sule isn’t really that spectacular, in my opinion. While it’s pretty, it’s basically used s a huge roundabout to manage traffic in Yangon. That takes away from the serenity or spirituality of it, I think.

  9. Andrea |

    February 3, 2013 at 1:00 am

    Reply

    Beautiful pictures. So glad I found your site – headed to Myanmar in March!

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:16 pm

      Reply

      Oh, you’re going to love it here! I’ve got lots more stories to share over the coming weeks, so hopefully you’ll get some ideas of what to see… especially some of the places off the typical tourist trail.

  10. Bama |

    February 3, 2013 at 5:30 pm

    Reply

    I remember my sheer amazement when I saw Shwedagon closely. It is truly one of the most remarkable single monuments in Southeast Asia. Btw thanks for the info on Maha Wizaya Pagoda! I definitely missed it when I went to Shwedagon, and now it’s another reason for me to go back!

    • Michael Turtle |

      February 9, 2013 at 3:19 pm

      Reply

      It is quite spectacular, isn’t it? Just the scale of the place, coupled with all the little details around it. You can spend so long exploring it or just sitting there and admiring it. And as the light of the day changes, so does Shwedagon. So beautiful!

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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