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The bohemian sanctuary from modernity

April 16, 2020 | Michael Turtle | 5 Comments

LOCAL MARKET

San Telmo Market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

As the road turns into cobblestones, uneven underfoot, the first signs you’re going back in time become clearer.

The colonial buildings lining the street look sturdy but weary from the struggle of existing for centuries.

For San Telmo, the oldest neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, has seen many changes over the past 300 years as the dockworkers, the vagrants, the bourgeois, and the artists each took turns to call the area their own.

San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

These days, like many old neighbourhoods of large cities, there’s been a level of gentrification but San Telmo has not relinquished its spirit of bohemia.

The artists still call it home and within the cafes, bars and tango parlours is a sanctuary from the modernity outside.

San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

On the weekends, the area is popular with tourists, drawn in by the street fair and market each Sunday. The antique stalls seem so natural in the locale it’s as if they have grown from seeds in the cracks of the road.

Amongst them are the stalls of the artists – photographers, painters, sculptors – who have often found inspiration from the neighbourhood itself.

San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina
San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tango dancers perform on one corner, an old man with his guitar serenades the passing crowds and a speaker in a shop plays the Spanish soundtrack of Evita on a loop.

These are clearly scenes created for the tourist herds and the travellers obligingly snap their photos, buy the albums and drop a few spare pesos in the donation buckets.

San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

You can’t blame the locals for taking advantage of the tourist influx. And there are certainly plenty of stalls selling Buenos Aires magnets, traditional-style mugs and t-shirts.

Those are the vendors the tourists tend to move towards. The tables that are relatively empty are there for the locals.

If you stay a while and watch the crowds you’ll see the Buenos Aires residents slowly move towards an antique stall, look carefully at the items, chat with the owner and eventually leave, pleased and with a special item wrapped in newspaper.

San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina
San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina
San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

That’s where the charm of San Telmo lies – in the special little places where the locals find their pleasure.

It’s a relatively large neighbourhood and it’s very easy to visit on a Sunday, walk the cobblestones and wander through the market. But to truly experience the birthplace of Buenos Aires, you need time to explore.

Thankfully I’ll be staying in the area for the next month and already I’ve realised that the longer I’m here, the more I’m discovering.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN BUENOS AIRES

If you stay close to the city centre of BA, you’ll be near many of the main sights and have easy access to other neighbourhoods.

BACKPACKER

For a backpacker option, Che Juan Hostel is modern and comfortable with good privacy.

BUDGET

With great value and a central location, River Hotel is a good option if you’re on a budget.

BOUTIQUE

For true style, I would recommend BE Jardin Escondido, which is where Francis Ford Coppola stays.

LUXURY

And when it comes to the top end, the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is the ultimate in luxury!

Reader Interactions

    Comments Cancel reply

  1. Rease |

    November 22, 2011 at 4:09 am

    Reply

    As an expat, I tend to shun a lot of tourist attractions but I do enjoy the occasional trip to the San Telmo market. I love Ferias, I am a total sucker for hand crafted items. Your photos are great, they capture the spirit of the market well, minus the horrible crowdedness!

    • Turtle |

      November 22, 2011 at 8:45 am

      Reply

      If only the horrible crowdedness could be photoshopped out in real life! 🙂

  2. Stephanie - The Travel Chica |

    November 22, 2011 at 5:39 am

    Reply

    Excellent photos! I have a rather amusing photo I took of a vendor’s t-shirt. It says, “F*ck you. I’m from San Telmo.” I think that nicely sums up the neighborhood 🙂

    • Turtle |

      November 22, 2011 at 8:48 am

      Reply

      Ha ha! Yeah, that’s kind of the attitude you get from some of the locals. I’m going to keep an eye out for that t-shirt!

  3. Candice Michelle |

    December 16, 2011 at 10:45 pm

    Reply

    I like the design of the mugs. It was creatively done. Do they also personalize a mug according to your design if you will buy to them?

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This is the website of travel writer, Michael Turtle. After working in broadcast journalism for a decade in Australia, Michael left Sydney to travel the world indefinitely and write about the places, people and experiences he discovers. This isn't a diary - these are real stories from the world.

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