The art of the oppressed

The best photos of the graffiti in Buenos Aires. The Argentinian street art has a complex history and a unique style.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

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Buenos Aires graffiti tour

The two bears tower above me but, thankfully, are oblivious to my presence. They’re each five metres tall but they’re still, silent and just stare at each other. I’m safe.

Minutes earlier, two wolves had looked like they were about to attack each other, claws outstretched and fangs bared while, once again, I looked on.

And earlier in the afternoon I had gazed into the eyes of a tiger with rage in its face.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

Walking the streets of Buenos Aires, the images of the animals leap out from the walls of the buildings as you pass by. Although painted, they still feel alive. They’re joined on the facades by the quirky, the abstract and the angry.

For in Argentina, graffiti is everywhere and has been embraced by the community.

It has been taken to a level above petty vandalism. In the art, are meaning and an expression from the heart.

In the art, the people find their voice, “the voice of the oppressed”, as it was explained at one point.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

When Argentina emerged from the vices of a military dictatorship in the 1980s, graffiti blossomed as the restraints on free expression were lifted.

There were interpretations of political messages but also a celebration of art for art’s sake.

When the economy of the country crashed in 2001, the creative set again took to the streets to transform the city into a gallery.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

Graffiti art of Buenos Aires

In the neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires around Palermo and Colegiales, colours explode from the walls of houses, shops and government buildings.

The paintings are technically allowed on public spaces and, when it comes to private buildings, many owners are happy to host the art.

Across the suburbs are diffused faces of coloured spectrums; abstract children of origin and intent unknown; and familiar shapes colliding with others to form a twisted mesh of meaning.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

It’s possible to walk the areas on your own but in this case I was invited on a tour by local organisation graffitimundo which specialises in telling the stories behind the artwork.

There are the tales of the police shootings that led to one of the largest designs on the streets; the young man who was rejected from using a space until his mother went and asked on his behalf; and even the art theft scandal when graffiti was lifted straight off the walls.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

The word ‘graffiti’ is used a lot but most of the painters prefer the term ‘street artist’.

Graffiti is for the naïve, their spray cans and their elementary tags. The real artist creates with meaning.

As our tour guide, Ana, put it: “We are a young democracy and it’s important to be able to express ourselves”.

The political stands alongside the fun, though. The angry and the colourful coexist in the community because they’re both saying something.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

One of the most interesting things to hear about is the ‘conversations’ that occur between the artists. In this context, the conversation happens on the wall.

“Artists know they give their work to the street,” Ana explains.

“This is art for the community.”

And so others often expand on the works. Through small additions and slight alterations a discussion is born from the art.

Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina
Buenos Aires, best graffiti tour, art, Argentina

The conversations and discussion help bring it all to life. The pictures of the bears, the wolves and the tiger may have been benign but there is an energy within them.

When you hear the stories behind the artwork, you can see the intensity of their existence.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION IN BUENOS AIRES

If you stay close to the city centre of BA, you’ll be near many of the main sights and have easy access to other neighbourhoods.

BACKPACKER

For a backpacker option, Che Juan Hostel is modern and comfortable with good privacy.

BUDGET

With great value and a central location, River Hotel is a good option if you’re on a budget.

BOUTIQUE

For true style, I would recommend BE Jardin Escondido, which is where Francis Ford Coppola stays.

LUXURY

And when it comes to the top end, the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is the ultimate in luxury!

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of graffitimundo but, as always, all opinions are his own.

6 thoughts on “The art of the oppressed”

  1. For me, graffiti is a beautiful street art that is used to express the artist’s feelings about everything they experience with the things around them. Those artworks are beautiful because I believe that each of them is meaningful.

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