Archive

Basilica Cistern, Istanbul, Turkey I couldn’t help it, you know. Think about Harry Potter, that is. The books are set in England – I shouldn’t really have been finding associations here in Turkey, in a city like Istanbul with its influences of Eastern Europe and Asia. But there was no denying it… it was all ...

Saklikent Gorge, Turkey Crashing through the water, fighting the strong current of the river, I hold on tight to my bag. My shoes are soaking, my shorts are getting wetter by the second and the chill in my legs is creeping up to a point where it could become very uncomfortable. But this is an ...

The two great mosques of Istanbul The two buildings look across the crowded square at each other. Like Istanbul itself, they both divide and join the citizens and their history. Represented within these two great landmarks is the core of the city’s heritage. If the buildings were people, historical figures even, they would be eyeing ...

The Turkish pancake cooked on the street The woman sits on the ground smiling at me… she knows I have already made up my mind. The man keeps talking loudly and fast… he’s too preoccupied with his spiel to notice that I’ve taken a step forward. It’s hard to resist the lure of the gozleme ...

The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul The lamps hang from the ceiling of the stall, glowing like a constellation. Different shapes, varied sizes, a range of colours. Each on their own is a work of art – together they become a gallery of light. Such is the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. At the centre of the old ...

The Lycians Who were the Lycians? It’s a good question… and not one with an easy answer. The records of these ancient people aren’t as detailed or numerous as their contemporaries. There are a lot of assumptions that need to be made when putting together a clear picture of the Lycians. It’s a question worth ...

A haircut in Istanbul There’s something quite scary about a man lunging at you with a blade. Even if you’ve willingly sat down in his chair and he means you no harm, it’s an unnerving experience. The man’s name is Senol and he’s one of the hundreds of barbers in Istanbul. Young, good-looking and friendly, ...

Fethiye, Turkey “Its not the same as it used to be,” the woman tells me as she sucks on a cigarette. She takes a sip of her raki, the traditional Turkish spirit, and continues. “I’ve been here for 25 years now and Fethiye has changed,” she pauses, “…a lot”. A middle-aged Brit, she’d invited me ...

The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology Who doesn’t love the idea of discovering sunken treasure? I’m sure I remember it being a dream of mine as a young boy. Sailing off a ship (pirate or otherwise), following a map to find the spot where x marks, and then opening up those chests full of gold. ...

Pamukkale, Turkey “Shoes off,” the guard at Pamukkale instructs me. I look ahead – a long and wide white pathway lies before me, filled with visitors with their shoes in the hands. I take mine off and step onto the strange-looking surface. I know from my research that it’s calcium, washed down in the water ...