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The lake swamped with tourism

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Inle Lake, Myanmar The beauty of Myanmar’s Lake Inle comes not just from the nature but from its relationship with the people who live on it. Towns growing from the islands, houses suspended above the water, and floating commerce that takes place between them all. The lake is the livelihood of these people – the ...
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Is orangutan tourism ethical?

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Seeing the orangutans at Tanjung Puting In the middle of the jungle of Borneo, the paradox hit me. Surrounded by the rustling of the animals, hours from civilisation, it all became clear. The very thing that is threatening the wildlife population here is the same thing that could save it – human intervention. “You need ...
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The power of love

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The House of Juliet, Verona, Italy Love has an undeniable power. There’s a strength in the emotion that is indefinable and seems endless. It’s so strong that it can defeat logic, neutralise rational thought and influence decisions. In other words, it’s exactly what salespeople are looking for. Enter stage left, the House of Juliet in ...
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The world’s oldest sovereign state

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Visiting San Marino From high up on the hill, looking out over the countryside and towards the ocean, you can see why the residents of San Marino have tried so hard over the centuries to keep their land – it’s a stunning view, witnessed from a beautiful city that has maintained its historic charm. It’s ...
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Is Poland ready for the football?

Euro 2012, Poland, wroclaw stadium, wroclaw, ready (5)
Euro 2012 “You didn’t hear this from me,” someone whispers in my direction. “But I’m not sure Poland will be ready in time for the matches.” I take it with a grain of Polish salt. You seem to hear these things before every big international sporting event – and Poland is about to put itself ...
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The beach in the mountains

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Things to do in Pucon, Chile Many hours drive from the ocean there’s a beach. Hundreds of metres above sea level, people laze on the shore and splash around in the water. There’s no sand – just grey volcanic rocks for a shore. But there are beach umbrellas, sunchairs and more skin than should be ...
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Something a bit fishy

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Santiago Fish Markets, Chile You smell it before you see it. But I suppose that’s often the case with fish markets. There’s something about the smell of thousands of dead sea creatures that should be off-putting but actually just makes you crave a good meal. The fish market in Santiago had been described to me ...
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Hitting the streets of Santiago

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Santiago city tour, Chile A light spray of spittle erupts from Felipe’s mouth. His eyes are animated, his hands moving wildly and his voice booming across the crowd. As he tells stories of Chile’s fight for independence, his mood lifts with the jubilation of victory. When he discusses the difficulties of life under Pinochet, his ...
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Travels through Paraguay

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Tips for travel in Paraguay As the bus drives along the bumpy dirt road, I look desperately out the window. Through the haze of the red dust being thrown into the air, I look for a sign. Not a mystical symbol of guidance or anything that ethereal – I’m talking about an actual sign. You ...
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Beyond the wall…

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Escaping to Paraguay The year was 1989 and as The Berlin Wall was torn down from around him, Peter Gärtner saw an opportunity. He was a biologist – for work and for love. Within East Berlin, though, the concrete jungle offered little connection with nature. It was not a city where his passion could flourish, ...
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