Into the valley

You can’t drive to Nuria. You either hike in or take the scenic train. And this is ultimately the beauty of the place – it’s cut off from the outside world.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

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Getting to the Nuria Valley

There are only two ways to get to the heart of the Nuria Valley, high in the Spanish Pyrenees and isolated from much of the region.

The first is to walk. The second is on an antiquated train, along the ridges above valleys and through mountain tunnels.

Coming out of the last tunnel, the light shines in through the window and, across a lake at eye level, the destination is revealed. It is an enchanting way to arrive.

nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain

Not that the walk is unpleasant. It can take a few hours uphill (shorter downhill) and follows the valley up almost a thousand metres.

The path sometimes feels as though it’s on a cliff ledge; sometimes it comes down into the valley and crosses the river; and often it leads you to viewpoints that look out across the stunning landscapes of Catalonia.

nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain
nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain

The Nuria Valley, Spain

The Nuria Valley is a popular day trip for the local Spanish. The train drops you off at the resort which has restaurants, shops and other facilities. From there, a ski lift can take you further up the mountain… or you can rely on your feet.

During summer, families often just stay in the valley, eating by the lake and enjoying the atmosphere. The more adventurous use the valley as a jumping-off point for hikes back down to the towns or off into higher mountain ground.

In winter, the hills around the resort become ski fields, with 10 different tracks (including two black ones).

nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain
nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain

Nuria Valley Accommodation

One of the things I like most about the Nuria Valley is the choice of accommodation. In front of the lake and caressed by the surrounding mountains, is the official hotel.

It has 65 rooms and 12 apartments, with total capacity of about 200 people. It’s a comfortable and well-maintained hotel with the luxury of tranquillity.

Prices are somewhere between 50 and 100 euro a night (with your choice of meals included).

nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain

But if that is too expensive for your travel budget, there’s another option. At the top of ski lift, just a few minutes away from the luxury hotel, is a youth hostel.

It’s an older building but well-maintained. There’s something fun about having to get a gondola up to the front door, though, and it has its own amazing views out across the valley.

Prices start at about 18 euro a night.

nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain
nuria valley, vall de nuria, pyrenees, catalonia, spain

There aren’t many places on the European tourist trail that you can’t get to by car. So it’s the isolation that makes the Nuria Valley so special.

The journey in is as memorable as the time spent there. And the time spent there is so flexible but so carefree that it’s easy to forget the rest of the world exists.

Whether it’s summer or winter, there’s something for everyone in this sanctuary of the Pyrenees.

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of the Costa Brava Pirineu de Girona tourism board but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

16 thoughts on “Into the valley”

  1. Nuria valley is stunning – we went there and back by train, but should I make it back, I will definitely walk because all the parts of the walk we drove past on the train ride looked just so nice! Plus, it totally escaped me that there was a hostel up there – that’s not to say nobody told me, but I’m sure I was busy turning around in a circle and admiring the scenery while valid information was passed on to me. Good thing there’s bloggers to write about this stuff!! Saved by the Turtle – again.

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    • I loved your post from Nuria. You guys made it look so beautiful… which is not to say it isn’t normally, but it was taken to a whole new level. I’m impressed you guys got such great shots while turning around in a circle – mine would have just turned out blurry.

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  2. I visited this area when I was a young girl. A beautiful place. The train trip up there feels like you are in another time. Thanks for recreating this memory for me. Catalonia has alot to offer.

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    • Even though the valley is stunningly beautiful, I think it’s all about the train trip too. In one direction, that is. It is worth walking back down and seeing the changing scenery as you descend.

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    • Yeah, I was really surprised too! I don’t normally write too much about accommodation but I thought it was really worth pointing out that there were two different but decent and reasonably-priced options.

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    • I think being a bit difficult keeps the crowds away. Not that it is too hard to jump on a train… but a lot of people I imagine don’t like to be too far from their cars. Oh well, it works perfectly for those of us who prefer things to be a bit quieter.

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  3. I love finding off the beaten places like this–they make the journey so worth the effort. Haven’t been to the Pyrenees yet, but I will definitely put the Nuria Valley on the list when we go–thanks! 🙂

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    • Heya. Yes, you could definitely visit Nuria for three days from Barcelona. The best way to go is by train. You go to Ribes de Freser station and then get the rack railway from there up to the valley centre. Should take a few hours maximum. There are a few accommodation options once you’re there if you want to stay overnight.

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